rusefi.com

LS1MonteSS wrote:I was wondering how this would work for a V8 engine. I'm assuming the engine it was tested on was a V6.
And are there any final cost projections. I intend to do the DIY thing with this project. And was trying to get a ball park estimate on cost.

thank you for the warm words
So far all the engines to run rusEfi were inline four but v8 should not be any different. We have 12+6 channels on current boards and we are going to add a couple on the next revision, just in case.

As for the costs, please be more specific on what are you trying to estimate http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:For_Sale should give you the idea in terms of hardware costs.

mmkaay which of these holes can be used as mounting holes and can be shortened to ground (to the metal case)?

I want to say all of them, all these holes were created equal.

Want for bolt head clearance with the soldered components though.

Yes all can be used as long as the head does not touch an exposed pad

the reason I'm asking is some of them are metallized, some are not - a bit confusing..

I was thinking they would all be metallized if they are not I should check the source it shouldn't matter if they have the metal centers or not. They are not grounded so if you have the metal centers it should not conduct to anything

few questions. soldering the wires from the board to the connectors would be rather tough - the wires would go right through connector holes in the enclosure. eventually, these wires (even from injector drivers) won't be thick.
1. on the injector driver part - there are four ignd pads. should there be four wires? should I connect all of them to the enclosure? or to a gnd pin of the connector? or to four pins of the connector and then right to the battery? but then, they would form loops, won't they? which is the proper way? and once again, should I run 8 negative wires to ECU and eight separate positive wires to main relay, or could that be one thick wire with taps to each injector? does it matter?
2. there's also some LED next to INJ01 output (D414, in series with D413?) is it just an indicator that INJ01 operates properly? not neccesary to populate?
3. there is a placeholder for some idc10 connector (probably) - cs4, cs3, cs2, cs1, mosi, miso, clk - what are these for? should I populate it?
3. which is the most suitable pin to connect ambient air thermal sensor on this board? should I connect it to an opamp? or directly?
4. which is the pads to connect the idle driver (step-dir)
5. if I have a separate VR board, which would be located in the same enclosure, is there a special pad on frankenstein to connect its output?
6. if I build an inductive or capacitance ignition sensor (to high-voltage wires, to see the current setup with dizzy and vacuum advance), I would also need a similar pad (russian mentioned, from the firmware standpoint it would be similar to the vvt angle sensor).

1. all iGND's would be best with their own wires going directly back to the battery negative terminal. This helps keep voltage drop and such RF kinds of issues off the MCU ground. You can combine them into one fat wire at the ECU but keep in mind that you may cause a GND issue.
2. Yes LED's are to verify that driver is working, as opposed to your wires. AKA failing injector with blinking light means wire or injector problem. However if no blinking light, then it means ECU problem. These are not strictly required, they are just helpful diagnostics tools.
3. I'll need to review this this evening. If I forget, please ping me and remind me.
4. see 3.
5. see 3.
6. I do not understand the question.

6. There's a risk of going offtopic... but the plan is to install a sensor on a high voltage wire of the first cylinder that would allow to get the current ignition advance map (angle vs rpm vs engine load) just to assess the efficiency of vacuum advance and to get the baseline table. And only then make an ignition swap.
So I would need to connect that sensor to some pad on the Frankenstein board.

how many pins from the discovery board do I need to run pololu stepper driver? step-dir-enable? pe13 and pe10 have seem to have almost no soldarable pads on the frankenstein?
to drive my ignition modules I don't need u601-603 drivers, but probably need four pads either directly to the modules, or may be to my level-shifter board (i haven't ruled out those issues when disco was shutting down during ignition tests, it might be the pins were not 'strong' enough for that module in noisy environment?)

http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:Stepper_motor is where all stepper-related info is currently documented (poorly)

Yes, I know, I've been there. The question is shall I be using jumper wires to the discovery board, or shall I solder the wires somewhere to Frankenstein.
Just thought of building another board on top of discovery, that would have an LCD, pads for stepper, pads for crank sensor, themperature sensor, everything that's needed. Might be not that bad idea at all? The third layer in our sandwich

hello..

it is frankenstein 0.11 is the latest version?
i am planning to use a gerber at 1st page to make a copy of the board.

Yes 0.11 is the latest version.

This board is a bit forgotten but should totally work.

russian wrote:Yes 0.11 is the latest version.

This board is a bit forgotten but should totally work.

thanks.

if you interested i can sent you and kb1gtt few pieces of board for testing and analysis. FOC, just give me your address.
estimate fabrication around 1 month.

I have a few Frankenstein boards, thank you! These are available as kits at the store.

If on the other hand you fabricate Frankenso 0.5 - latest version - I would definitely want some samples.

need comfirmation.

gerber zip in this https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/frankenstein/gerber/ for frankenstein 0.11 board?

Negative, they are found here.

https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/rusefi_hardware_history/frankenstein_rev00.11/gerber/

thanks kb1gtt!

Jared, what do these M470 & M471 in the upper right corner mean?

and what's the purpose of that JP51?

does this red line in kikad mean a copper trace on the top layer?

I should have waited until I was home to read this. I don't have my normal system to check these right now and I run the risk of forgetting to fully reply.

From my poor memory, M470 & M471 are screw holes.

About JP51, I think this is typically a jumper wire, but with the option to use that pin for a different feature if so desired. I'll have to check when I get home later today.

About copper trace, how did you get that view? Is that with F11 or one of the other shading views? I believe you are correct. I think it's showing a copper trace that is placed in a copper flood.

sorry for torturing you.
I just couldn't understand what do screw holes do on the schematics..
you don't remember, which another feature was it intended initially? (such jumper could have been provisioned for pretty much every pin, it was done so just for this one).

Copper trace - I didn't want to confuse you, i used some tool to highlight it, and now looks as a shadow, but it's just the trace where the arrow is pointing. And it seems to be going from CAN pin to the screw hole for some reason (my older revision of the board is made in a different way)

Jared, one more thing. I am going to connect the output of my LM1815 board (5V signal) to the input of the third opamp, which is now something like LMV324, and then run a wire to pd6 pin. Is the not-so-rail-to-railness of this chip okay for that application, or do I need to replace it with an opamp from microchip?

I don't have injectors at hand. Can I use similar lamps to test the circuitry instead?
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/20Pcs-Super-Bright-G4-12V-20W-Tungsten-Halogen-Bulb-Lamp-Lighting-Light-Bulb-EB6462/32513599419.html?spm=2114.41010208.4.2.b9PpdR

At home now, still don't fully remember what JP51 is about. Perhaps we wanted the ability to move CAN to a different pin. I'm not remembering.

Screw holes on the schematic is to give you a place to screw the schematic to the wall

It's really a lazy thing. Drawing these holes in the edge layer is a pain. So I put them on the schematic and use the more feature rich tools for placing modules.

Those bulbs would probably work OK for at least a while. I expect 20W to draw about 1.7A. I expect the chips can drive 1A. So the chips will have a bit more heat from the MOSFET's internal resistance causing heat, but they will also have less heat as these bulbs do not have inductance energy to dissipate. So it would probably be OK. I would say give it try and keep in mind if they overheat they will shutdown. However they will probably be OK.

I'm not seeing a hole or trace like this near CONN_10X2. These were separate boards, which were them merged together. This might be a mistake in the merging process.

just wondering why wiki mentions pull-down for seemingly similar TPS and MAP 500K and 1K. Isn't 1K too much for that purpose?

Which wiki page? I would generally recommend using the Frankenso schematic. It suggests pull up and pull downs.

this one:
http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenstein_board
But if TPS and MAP output voltage, why use those? won't it affect the readings?

Interestingly, frankenso' wiki doesn't explain it, but gives a link to the above mentioned Frankenstein wiki.
http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board