I believe that with the Franekenso boards, Discovery failures have been relatively few. Is that correct? I wonder if there could be some issue with the Frank boards. I don't know of any, but perhaps there could be.
True, few discovery failures while on Frankenso board. I can recall the mystery of @s board killing discovery unites one by one.With #1 board I am not 100% sure but it could be that the laptop was not even connected, just long USB cables from headlight area where the ECU was into inside the cabin, and cranking.
Statistics: Posted by AndreyB — Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:28 pm
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On board 2, can you measure voltages from each of the 3 pins of LD1 referenced to the GND pins in the corner of the PCB. That will help show what the STLink chip is doing. I'm pretty sure that chip is simply toast and probably. I'm not sure how esle to test the STLink chip. Board 2 can probably be programmed via different STLink and you can probably still use the F4 part of it.
I feel reasonably confident that each board has a broken large black chip. It's not like prior failure where you can swap D1 for D3 and revive it. I think the major chips are toast, and the board is probably not salvageable. What I wonder is why it happened.
I believe that with the Franekenso boards, Discovery failures have been relatively few. Is that correct? I wonder if there could be some issue with the Frank boards. I don't know of any, but perhaps there could be.
Statistics: Posted by kb1gtt — Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:16 pm
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Pictures were taken while on a desk with a wall-powered desktop. What tests should I run to confirm which components are blown?
Statistics: Posted by AndreyB — Wed Jan 20, 2016 12:52 pm
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Statistics: Posted by Rhinoman — Wed Jan 20, 2016 12:43 pm
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I'm not quite sure what could be wrong with board 1, I would wager a guess it's USB power supply related. If powered via Frankenso and not USB, does it preform the same, AKA solid power supply vs USB power supply. I suspect the LD3985M33R is being overloaded and is short cycling. This can happen with a mild over current situation. If you have a hard dead short to GND, you have been blowing some combination D1 to D3. However if you have a slight over current, it allows the LD3985M33R to kick in the thermal limits, turns off, cools down turns on, over heats, etc which results in the blink power to the F4 and blinking 3V supply. I would bet that chip is getting hot when this is happening and if you gave it time, it would blink at a slower rate as it heats up the surrounding PCB. Don't touch the LD3985M33R you'll likely say ouch. What I don't know is what on the F4 is shorting to GND. Could be lots of things. Connecting to the board to the Frankenso power supply will likely burn what ever is causing a problem. With some luck it will be the audio codec chip or some other thing we don't care about. If it burns the F4, then it was broken any how. I might guess ESD for this, but could also be a GND loop issue with the USB cable.
Per board 2, this does seem odd. We know dead shorts to GND will blow D1 to D3 in various ways. In your case those all work, so the issue probably wasn't related to over current. Which leads me to think over voltage. The chances of a voltage surge coming from the Miata, past the F4 and breaking the STLink is not very likely, so I'm more inclined to think the surge came from the USB connector, or perhaps from a human ESD. I find it odd that LD1 is off while LD2 is bright. LD1 is a multi-color LED, connected to 3V , which we know is OK as it's powering LD2. The STLink can make that red, green, or 50/50 red green. However under no situations should that LD1 be off when you have 3V. So this LD1 must be broken, which I can only see happening via a voltage surge. The surge that took out the STLink probably is also what took out the LD1. I would most likely point a finger at the USB connection, as you may have GNDed your car via USB cable. I doubt a human ESD as I don't expect you could take out 2 chips in one event. You body just doesn't store enough energy.
If it's a USB GND issue, you might want to GND your shield before connecting the USB cable. This will allow the PC and vehicle to equalize before the 5V and data connections are made.
Statistics: Posted by kb1gtt — Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:10 am
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Some new content.discovery which was inserted into Frankenso 0.4 inside a case under the hood in a warm garage has died (this one now has "1" drawn on it): a bunch of system LEDs blink randomly as if there is a power issue. Took another discovery which was in the garage as well and somehow 10 minutes later this one would not recognize ST-LINK as USB device while rusEfi seemed to be running fine (this one has "2" drawn on it).
Healthy board, diagnostics step 1:
This one says "1" in black sharpie close to the ST logo. This one lights up four LEDs with mini USB and without JP1, same board with JP1 has zero LEDs emitting light. Next step?
This one says "2" close to the ST logo. This one blinks LD1 off/red/off/red without JP1. With JP1, it looks like rusEfi firmware is running but this board is not recognized as ST LINK usb device. Next step?
Note to myself: do not take pictures of black cables on black desk.
Statistics: Posted by AndreyB — Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:10 am
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Statistics: Posted by kb1gtt — Sun May 17, 2015 11:05 pm
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==================
Step 1 Clear damged PCB==================
Step 2. To replace (or mix) old solder with alloy Rose==================
Step 3. Clear MCU pins==================
Step 4. MCU pins to correct (if it is necessary)==================
Step 5. Deleted oxydes from pins before solders==================
Step 6. Ethanol flux==================
Step 7. Air soldering
==================Step 8. To be happy
=================The end
Statistics: Posted by s_ali — Sun May 17, 2015 9:17 pm
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all say MB997 B-02
Here is the number that changes.
212310257
213180628
213130291
212431122
212310255
212430145
Statistics: Posted by kb1gtt — Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:57 pm
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I've got
214190354
214190416
214190713
Jared, what is the lowest number on the dead boards I've send you?
The lowest I have is
2122xxxxx
Did they make 214190713-212122000=~2M boards? does this sound like a realistic number? They say there were about 3.5M Raspberry Pi sold.
Statistics: Posted by AndreyB — Sat Aug 30, 2014 11:37 pm
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One of the boards I think R42 gets really hot. R42 is the one between LD6 and B2. It measures the same ~600 Ohm as on other boards, why does it get so hot?
Edit: actually R42 is the resistor for the blue LED. How could it be hot? With my fat fingers maybe it's something close to R42.
Statistics: Posted by AndreyB — Fri Aug 22, 2014 11:03 pm
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May be try connect 3v and much ampers power for burn not working io port (fortunally only pin)?
Statistics: Posted by rus084 — Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:07 am
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