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It turned out to be a electrical problem. I have 3 relays in the car. The first one begin the main relay, this supplies the proteus with the 12V needs to control highside stuff and all the other things. Next I have a relay for the fuel pump, that uses a highside channel. And last I HAD a injector an...

I moved away from using the build in H-bridges, and started using a TB6600 driver. Those drivers a cheap, and have optocoupler build in, so dont need to worry about destroying the driver. I supply the driver with 5V of the proteus, and use 3 lowside drivers to pull down the signal. Took me a while t...

I think there was some strange problem with the tune. there are two ways to configure a 36-1 1. pick "36/1" out of the dropdown 2. pick "custom toothed wheel" and set 36 and 1 I have picked "36/1" from the dropdown but the setting for "custom toothed wheel" wh...

Upon examining the high-speed logger, the signal from the crank wheel appears satisfactory to me. Do you have a different perspective? Additionally, I'm puzzled as to why the injectors only become active at 300 RPM or above, given that the cranking RPM limit is set to 300 RPM. Shouldn't the injector...

Can somebody explain to me how the Cranking RPM limit works on a firmware level. I played around with this value and the ECU simulator. When the Cranking RPM limit is set to 300 RPM. The Trigger Simulator Needs to be 300RPM and up for injectors to start doing something. Same goed with lower RPM's. T...

I made some logs with the high speed logger in TS: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1161404728928903220/1207707552964550726/image.png?ex=65e0a04e&is=65ce2b4e&hm=3a7c366d4f940a097c63b60f012da4f2af46c6ac1d588cf8f62c39052db49255& Does this look alright? For some reason it made some no...

Oke Interesting, what do they mean? Does this contribute to the problem? And why does my post get deleted every time? This is a rusEFI only forum. You are failing to notice removal comments and courtesy email, next violation i would have to suspend your account just because i have to preserve my ef...

Oke Interesting, what do they mean? Does this contribute to the problem? And why does my post get deleted every time?

Im using a GS100502 trigger sensor on a standard 36/1 trigger wheel.

Hey, I've been working on the 1969 2.0 engine in the 911E for a while now, and I'm still grappling with a persistent issue: during cranking, the ECU (Proteus v.04) fails to inject fuel or ignite anything. To cope with this, I've lowered the Cranking RPM Limit significantly (75RPM), allowing the car ...

I did some more testing today. I swapped both sensors and still had a problem on the right side of the engine. Checked the spark plugs, and two of the three on the right side were wet. So I swapped the whole right bank of spark plugs. With great succes, both sensors read about the same (within a few...

I don't have a recent picture, but both sensors are placed just after the Y junction where the 3 exhaust pipes meet. The straight section just before the next bent. Could it be possible that one bank of cilinders is running so much richer/leaner? I don't really have synced all the cilinders yet. IMG...

I have disconnected the CAN wires and the module started heating all by itself, and AFR was al good. With a engine running I have two AFR and they are a bit apart, so need to fix that, but channel 1 has a big delta in the readings (about 0.1) compared to channel 0 (about 0.09). Via the can bus, is i...

Yup that worked great, updated the firmware. And was able to connect to the controller via bluetooth, after getting three different laptops :x . I keept getting a error, maybe somebody knows what's up with this one Screenshot 2023-09-23 192932.png But the probes did not heat up, do they only start w...

Ahh oke! DFU mode over UART, what programmer do I need than? FTDI will do, or a ST-link?

Uploading the firmware, can that be done via UART, or do I need to break out the ST-link for this? Not a lot of information is available on the Github page

Im having trouble with getting the controller to work properly. Via bluetooth I can connect to the controller, and when I start the engine, the lambda sensor start to heat up. But the readings go all over the place. I have checked the wiring a couple of times, all good. Could somebody check out the ...

On the github of the controller there is this section:

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi-hardware/tree/main/lambda-x2#esr-measurement-crosstalk-between-channels-rev0-and-rev1

Does this also apply to the one I got from you Andrey?

Just checked the wiring, that is all good, the suggestion of mck1117 was incorrect of that Vm and Ip may be swapped.

image.png https://rusefi.com/docs/pinouts/lambda-x2/ Could you help out with matching the pins? Between this diagram and the pinout online of the Lambda x2? I often get confussed with the naming of the pins. And there is really not much to it right? I bougth the controller so I hope some testing is...

The probes are already mounted in the exhaust of the 911E, and they are just feed by 12V from the battery. I connect to them via bluetooth, and they seem to warmup. mck1117 also looked at a previous log, and he suggested that maybe Vm and Ip may be swapped. "the warmup goes OK but when it tries...

I'm trying to get the controller to work, but with little luck so far.

When it tries to read the sensor it all goes wrong. I'm not sure what is causing this.
Could some with a bit more knowledge look at the log file?

I do have that same symptom on my Proteus as well, but readings are good when 12V is applied to the board

Further no changes needed in the `CAN Bus Communication` menu. I assume the firmware is already flashed on the unit?

Hey I just bought this lovely Wideband controller from the RusEFI shop.

Can you tell me a bit more about setting up the controller, how do I setup the CAN bus and all?

And Andrey told me, that for now, only channel 1 is supported in the firmware, could you tell me more about that?

Somebody here that can help me out here? I don't really know what to do or to buy from this point on.

I have been doing some more testing today. But I'm unable to get a got signal out of the sensor with the 32/1 trigger wheel. Now I'm thinking that the sensor is not suited for the job. I found 2 versions of the datasheet, one says a max frequency of 4.2Khz and another a max of 10KHz. but still with ...

It is potentially undefined behavior. I would expect to see 4.1-4.5 volts on the 5v sensor outputs (and on the internal 5v rail) when powered from usb, as opposed to 5 +- 0.05 when powered via the ignition pin from a supply 7-28 volts. It's possible the sensor actually wants a 12v supply, and has m...

Are you feeding your unit just with USB? What is the voltage on the 5v outputs at the moment? I started with just the USB, and later added 12V to the mix, which solved my problem, and the RPM is steady now however, this is a very big flywheel with bit tooth, but the wheel on the crankshaft is a way...

Some more testing is done and I don't really know where the fault sits. I have made a simple setup with an old flywheel that is driven by a drill. This way I can drive the wheel sort of stable in terms of RPM. And hooked the sensor up to the ECU. PXL_20220529_141211417_(8.1.011).jpg But TunerStudio ...

Hey Everybody, I'm having some trouble getting the trigger sensor to work well. I got a 32-2 tooth wheel on the crankshaft that has a Bosh HA-P hall effect sensor looking at it. Hall-Effect_Speed_Sensor_HA-P_Datasheet - Data Sheet_69838731_Speed_Sensor_Hall-Effect_HA-P.pdf The sensor is getting 5V p...