rusefi.com

SOLVED
The injection phase was the issue. For an MX5 it should be about 400 degrees but the base map had it set to -180/540 degrees

I got it to work by following these steps: Open the RE log file in Mega Log Viewer Export log as a CSV Open CSV and delete the first row containing "#" so the new first row should be all the variable names e.g. RPM Time Trigger Error Counter Vehicle Speed Save CSV and open in Virtual Dyno

I wanted a gauge on my car that had several parameters on it and interfaced directly to the ECU. The easiest way I thought to achieve this was to buy several SPI full colour LCD displays and connect them to a Pi and mirror the HDMI main display so that the tunerstudio dash in full screen mode fills ...

This is my attempt to make the blip better but it still bogs. I've attached a log to this tune of me blipping the throttle at idle. Would someone be able to advise? https://www.rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=1006

I've given those wall wetting settings a go and they were a slight improvement although I would really like someone to share the details of tuning the AE, AFR and spark for idle to get a nice blip

I'll give those settings a go

A few RE users including myself and Nightsknight45 (Both running a hellen NB1/2 respectively) are having difficulties tuning the idle throttle blip to be nice and responsive without bogging. I've currently got it to a point where it will only bog a little bit coming off idle and is pretty responsive...

I had the opportunity to take my car to the dyno. I wanted to see how much she was putting to the wheels with my street tune (tuned myself), I was fully expecting at least 140 whp and she surprised me with 150 whp! That's not bad for a 175k mile engine! Tune: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=...

Today I refined the idle tuning a bit more and in the process learnt a bit more about how it works. First I turned off the CL idle and idle timing and dove the car around until it was warm then I set the idle screw until the RPM was slightly below my RPM target (for my 875RPM target I tuned it to 80...

Put a 70mm throttle body and a ported upper VICS intake manifold onto the car (smoothed out inside and port matched to throttle body). This meant that I needed to re-tune idle and VE again which is what I did in this tune. Using autotune and some smoothing the "hot spot" of maximum fuel de...

Hey OSprey42 , I think I've fixed your issue, so you should re-try with fresh snapshot firmware. You don't need to set the TX/RX pins there yourself, they're hardcoded in the firmware now. However, that first "uartConsoleSerialSpeed" field is still active, and requires an ECU reboot to ta...

That looks like it could be the issue! Hopefully someone manages to fix it eventually. I don't have the skill currently to work on the code but I've left the BT module attached to test out new theories and ideas as they surface.

Today's Tune: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=726 Today I discovered that the base tune I was running up until this point had really high fluctuations on the alternator voltage between 12-16V which was making the headlights flicker so I went into the alternator settings and gave that a bit of...

I'll keep trying to muck around with it then. Thanks for making the setting visible at least! I plan on using USB for tuning but the BT is more so I can use MSDroid or Shadowdash on my phone so I can have the gauges up without needing to carry around a laptop. Might look at putting a canbus gauge in...

I have great news! image.png that's totally wrong dialog for what you are interested in. I've just made a change to rename this into AUX *Sensor* Serial You are interested in calibration secondary serial and that dialog was hidden on miata boards. I've just enabled that dialog on miata boards, plea...

Awesome, thanks! I'll give it a go!

Well, sounds like you have a wired TTL adapter :) Hahaha indeed. I tried the FTDI with the ECU to no success with either RS232 or FTDI mode as pictured. I first tried using 115200 baud then changed them all to 9600 baud as pictured. I also tried swapping the TX/RX pins around and switching between ...

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 10:25 pm

Do you have a wired TTL so that we can simplify the problem statement and split BT issues from rusEFI uart issues?

I don't have one. I have an FTDI adapter which I used to program the BT module so I might be able to see if I can connect to the ECU that way using the TX/RX on the ECU?

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 3:19 pm

@OSprey42 did you say on slack that you got this working? What has helped?

No I haven't got it working propperly, only paired so the module works but it doesn't look like it talks to the ECU. Thought it'd be better to move this to forum so it doesn't get lost in slack

I'm having some issues connecting an HC-06 BT module to a Hellen NB1 board so that I can use TS wirelessly (and hopefully MSDroid). I've set up the BT module using a serial adapter to run on 115200 baud and both my phone and laptop can sucessfully pair to it. Using a serial monitor at the 115200 bau...

:D :D I've got a Hellen NB1 ECU with HC06 and I'm having the same issue you did originally. How did you fix this to get it working with MSdroid? I just get the "definition unavailable" error although I've even tried putting the correct INI file into the MSDroid/ini folder on my phone. Che...

I was having some issues with the wideband giving a highly unstable Nernst voltage as shown in this log https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?log=401 . This was causing the lambda sensor to periodically go to 0 in TS until the ECU was fully power cycled. It was also making it hard to tune as an unstabl...

Blipping the throttle from idle is one of the hardest things to tune in accel enrichment, especially when using MAP on a small engine. Fortunately, it's not really an important area- just roll on the throttle when you get going and you will never experience it during regular driving. Fix your VE ta...

The main other issue I have with the tune is that the car bogs when blipping the throttle from idle and I'm not sure if it's due to a terrible VE table or idle settings leaning it out too much. My car does this as well! Do let me know if you find a solution within your tune to remedy this. I nicked...

Attached are some photos of the install. Namely the ECU connected as well as the vacuum and O2 sensor lines being poked through the firewall. The supplied base map is good enough to get the car up and running however I found that with the 4 tooth trigger wheel the car struggled to start. It was recc...

Installed a Hellen NB1 ECU today on a RHD 1999 NB1. The Installation was incredibly easy as it fits directly into the OEM location and 3/4 OEM mounts which is still enough to secure it. All that needed to be done was to install a vacuum line on the back of the manifold and a Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband O...