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The replacement ECU came in and vvt is working once again 🙏. The car is no longer an absolute pig over 25% throttle haha. Next on the agenda is to install some sweet new itbs from hummelink modifications. The cbr1000 setup will be going to a new home soon😭, it was a solid budget itb setup but I want...

I ended up testing the ECU on another 01 NB2 with 77k miles on it. The VVT did not work on that car as well. So I guess that means the ECU is at fault. Currently working on getting a replacement.

My vvt quit on my the other day. I was thinking the vvt solenoid may have just failed but I swapped it with another and I still don't have any vvt. I even swapped the vvt actuator to a KNOWN working one and still nothing. The solenoid reacts when I rev the engine as well. I don't know that else to l...

Here is the most recent tune of anyone is curious.

https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=1421

The revised setup also included some custom 90 mm velocity stacks that I got cerakoted this awesome blue color. With those new stacks fitted I was finally able to ditch those crappy ebay 70 mm stacks. I also wanted to fit a full filter to minimize power loss and protect my engine so I bought a piper...

I had to go back to the drawing board on the throttle bracket and with some help from friends we had an update solution. It isn't perfect but it should save the cable from fraying hopefully. The bracket is more durable and we also include a larger bearing for the cable to ride on.

Here's another update since it's been so long!

The first rendition of the itb setup was good, but flawed. The throttle bracket ended up fraying the cable and I had to pull the setup to revise it. This was back in late July.

Welcome to the forum! Nice ride you got there. I have a 2001 NB2 running the beermoneymotorsports ECU with individual throttle bodies.

Bought a new tps and the problem seems to have been remedied.

nmstec wrote: ↑

Tue May 31, 2022 5:57 pm

I mean check it when hot, then check when cold. See if theres a difference with multimeter.

Alright, im getting around 4.33 volts when cold and I got around 4.34 volts when warm. I've seen up to 4.35 when cold previously. This is when the throttle is closed.

I know those values should be swapped BTW there's no such thing as "should be swapped" - that's the point of the TPS calibration process. So long as the sensor does something linear, it does the right thing. Electronic throttle bodies have a redundant pair of sensors that are usually roug...

nmstec wrote: ↑

Tue May 31, 2022 5:57 pm

I mean check it when hot, then check when cold. See if theres a difference with multimeter.

Ahh I gotcha. I'll post with an update sometime tomorrow

The car is reading around 4.5 volts when closed and around .30-.35 volts at W.O.T. I know those values should be swapped but that's how the honda TPS works in my situation.



Here is a link to a datalog I took yesterday: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?log=850

As the title states, my TPS ADC value when the throttle is closed changes everytime I start the car after having it sit for a few hours. The full-throttle ADC value will stay consistent though. I am using honda CBR1000 bike throttles with an adapter harness I made from the Miata TPS plug to the CBR'...

The Miata is running on CBR1000 throttles with a 3d printed adapter manifold. The tune is using Alpha N and it runs fairly well! I still need to work on idle and figure out a solution to my brake pedal becoming stiffer. I plan on having the car professionally tuned eventually but I got the car driva...

I've been piecing together my diy itb kit using cbr1000 itbs and 3d printed bits.

Why we had VVT activation delay calibration setting for some time I've only implemented the actual logic about six minutes ago see https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/3443 Another thing - your tune is officially the best rusEFI NB2 tune so I've just made some progress cherry picking some of you...

Under the idle setting, I see that you have "Use separate VE Table for idle" set to true, you can try setting this to false and go within the VE table to pull fuel until the car idles at your desired afrs.

I had the opportunity to take my car to the dyno. I wanted to see how much she was putting to the wheels with my street tune (tuned myself), I was fully expecting at least 140 whp and she surprised me with 150 whp! That's not bad for a 175k mile engine! Tune: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=894

Best Regards from Tampa FL.

Now that I have the launch control active when the clutch is depressed, I'm still running into an issue with the launch control being active while at speed. The VSS has been set up within the ECU to accurately match my speedometer, which I'm assuming the speed threshold setting within the launch con...

BeerMoneyMotorsports wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 24, 2022 10:46 pm

The actual clutch input is configured in a different section. see image below for settings.

image.png

That fixed the issue I was having! I had a feeling that I was missing something

Definitely! I'll upload some logs and a tune as soon as I can.

If anyone is running the AEM series X wideband on your build, I found that these settings worked best for me. AEM X-Series? You should connect it over CAN! The digital interface is much faster, and more accurate. Hmm, maybe in the future but im working with what I have lol. The Aem Series X wideban...

I was messing with the "Experimental" launch control setting and it seems to work but only when the clutch pedal is up/disengaged. I tried messing with the settings to have it active when I push down the clutch but no matter what settings I change it will produce the same result. I also tr...

If anyone is running the AEM series X wideband on your build, I found that these settings worked best for me.

Haha no forced induction on this one. I have plans to fit some ITBs in 2022-2023

Today's tune: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=790

I believe I have made some improvements to idle and some changes to the VE table to better hit my desired AFRs

Back from the dead... I was having issues with the ECU ( I killed two of them) and I finally got my hands on a revised board that seems to be working well! I've put under 300 miles in about 4 days of driving. Here is my most recent tune: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=789 The car drives pret...

OSprey42 wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 05, 2021 7:49 am

The main other issue I have with the tune is that the car bogs when blipping the throttle from idle and I'm not sure if it's due to a terrible VE table or idle settings leaning it out too much.

My car does this as well! Do let me know if you find a solution within your tune to remedy this.