rusefi.com

Hey everyone. Been gone for awhile but back to playing with RusEFI. Teh prelude is gone and for now the 73 C20 is back on GM PCM due to unforeseen issues. (Water got in the car I was using as a PGM-FI donor for this car, so i need to order another Frankenso ASAP). Anyways - A few questions: Right no...

Fair enough. If it gets it up and running to where we can get something better in place, that's fine with me I just wanna hear the old beast run on its own powered by the Frankenso magic

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Just to verify -- i need to run channel 3 through one of these to left bank and channel 4 through one of these to right bank injector. As well I need tie channel 1 to the left bank injector and ch 2 to the right bank injector. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/5073f06367b9eda255467ba3eb380c52...

I have two vehicles which will be running RusEFI. A 1973 Chevy C20 which I've installed many parts of a GM TBI setup on and am in the process of getting running on Frankenso 0.4 and a 1993 Honda Prelude with f22a1 engine and 5 speed manual LS transmission. The prelude comes later... It gets suspensi...

Im hoping for new year to begin with the old truck running even poorly off fuel injection;)

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Progress has been made! I still need to get a different laptop for tuning (something with windows) or reinstall my Kubuntu as USB serial devices of all sort just simply do not even show up in dmesg or lsusb. Wideband O2 will be being ordered on 1/8. For now I've got everything except for IAC stepper...

I think I need to amazon some high quality USB cables with 90degree plugs. Having issues with console and TunerStudio when connected to the mini USB port. I'm not physically able to access microusb in the vehicle. May have to pull case off Frankenso and finish the hole for it Sent from my XT1526 usi...

But yes I'm pretty sure we are on the same page. Doesn't Mazda use denso parts???

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It is a Chinese meter....

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I'm using Frankenso.. No GM here lol

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Hmm. I could I wire a pair of resistors to get 5 ohm??? There's 4 injectors on the typical usage of these denso resistor packs

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No idea how it works. Couldn't use it on my engine due to the cam not being compatible.. It's late 80s technology. I'll see what my friend Google says

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There doesn't seem to be a 'proper' resistor pack for this application.. It's from a Honda accord or prelude early 90s obd1, f22a1 or h23a1 engine. I believe a prelude 92, f22a1 but its a common Honda part for the era. I'm thinking it was internal to the GM ECU but I've no idea. This is a swap on a ...

That's fine I just need to finish this wiring so I can wrap it up and stuff Iy through the firewall I'll be getting the distributor interface going soon. Gonna be a long weekend but we're getting there.

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So how would I wire it? Ch#1 > resistor + ch#3 > no resistor > injector, same for other but 2/4?? Merry Christmas, BTW Jared!

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Denso resistor pack for injectors. Any black to another is 16ohms, red to any black is 10ohms. This work??

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Gahh. forum is still doing 500 errors. Lost my last post, so a short recap -- IAC stepper board is en route from Pololu (thanks kb1gtt for pointing out a seller!) and I'm going to try to find a Honda resistor pack for the injectors this evening. Do I just basically wire for example Inj 1 output w/ r...

Everything is alive off 12v. Still need to connect IAC stepper coils, injectors (low Z maybe using a Honda injector resistor pack??), and hei module

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Its alive!! Lots of 500 Internal server errors on the forum, btw! repeatedly refreshing fixes. Not sure what thats about.... Frankenso lives. the jumper rearrangement and replacing a 0ohm fixed it. The display is strange, however running of 12V i cant read it except from an angle.... If i power off ...

I'll change the jumpering and leave the IAC wire free for the moment, then after confirming power at P901, i'll go ahead and move the IAC wire there. Lets hope tonight we see some signs of life. That'd make for a really happy week. Again, thanks for the help and patience!

That's what I was thinking but if I jumper w2, where does the iac red wire with diode go?

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151215/932da494d070bc41eec1daf99c01f801.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151215/2eeb25023ed017a783cbc6db553c01e7.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151215/2dda1fbff0692e675c6fed8713da3976.jpg Does the pad at w62 yellow wire need to go anywhere? It's the ...

That's the one. 12v only on harness side

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Sorry to hear that. I hope that things are better for you soon!

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That's what I thought but that pin its connected to on the 22 pin is definitely the one labeled bat sw on board, +12V on pinout diagram :/ I wish I understood more than basic electrical.. I'd be a lot more help....

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I'll try heating the solder tomorrow, be really awesome if it reflows and fixes it

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Unfortunately not til am. See the black wire beside the cut red one? That resistor. The one that's connected to bat sw by the black jumper .

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No 12v past the resistor. Connector side is live, other side is not. Bad resistor maybe?

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beside the cut jumper at that resistor is the last place I see 12v. Cut the jumper to test since prior to doing so same results.

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