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Hi Mapaul!

Any progress?

I'll get the turbos. Because more turbo more better.

While I've never met anybody who actually removed the wideband to run a Narrowband, it may be feasible.
However, most widebands can emulate narrowbands and would therefore not throw an error code, if installed and set up correctly. So you can have your cake and eat it too.

The buzzing you hear most likely comes from the IAC valve. This is controlled by PWM. We may have to change the frequency. Nothing to worry about for now. I am going to assume that you are not seeing RPMs on the tach and this is why you asked about making the tach work. The tach should just work out...

Andrey B is correct. We do not have a verified calibration curve (transfer function) for this MAF. As near as I can tell, at idle your air-flow should be approx 7-10kg/h. This is what I get with the NA6. Your MAF calibration seems to be reporting 2.0 kg/h or so, according to your log. The NA6 calib...

Well this certainly looks promising! Yes, the values do appear reasonable. There is at least one thing that's still not right: Your VE table seems one set up for speed density (running off MAP sensor). So the values for small When using a MAF (mass airflow) algorithm, this table should start out at ...

Maybe we should add those buttons also for NA8.
Of course that would require, as of yet non-existent, tunes for NA8.

An attempt at explanation: In an attempt to maximize versatility, some of the pins on the Processor serve dual duty. We are talking about pins not connected to the TLE8888. For example: Traditionally [AN Volt9] on the 48 pin connector serves as an analog input without pullup for voltage measurement....

I'm pretty sure I found the reason for the 0V reading. This last batch of MRE boards has R30 populated. This means that AV9 is configured as an OUTPUT, not an input. image.png image.png Easiest fix would be to remove R30. Alternatively, you could jumper 2O on the main board to another analog voltage...

I just googled 95 Miata engine bay and the engine indeed seems to have a hot-wire MAF.
Still weird that it would show 0V though.

We may have screwed that up. If the 94/95 MAF is indeed a hot-wire MAF and not flapper-style, it may require different treatment than the NA6 VAF. I am a bit surprised though that it would read 0V. It should show full-scale (5V) in absence of the 1k pull-down. AndreyB do you have a log of your NB2, ...

OK. Let me give this another shot. My brain is addled with too many different PnP boards and too many different versions.

On *your* board MAF is "AN Volt 9" which is pin 40. The MAP Sensor is "AN Volt 5" which is pin 27.

The MAF transfer function was derived and verified from an NA6 car. To the best of my knowledge, the two curves are identical between NA6 and NA8. I think it's even the same box. Your assumption that the wrong pin is set is likely correct. It's probably set to Pin 27 (AN Volt 1) which is a remnant f...

Edit: I screwed this up too it seems.

I think I may be at fault here. Looking at the picture of your rusEFI I took before sending it out, it appears that I forgot to remove some jumpers (the little black rectangles close to the main connector). Sorry! EDIT: Let me get this right. Ignore what I posted before. I should have removed Jumper...

I think @AndreyB is right. I will build another ECU for you and I think I can find a car to test it in before shipping.
This is really strange though: You see rpm, injectors and coils are working. In theory, the engine should start.

Hi all, I think it's the fuel pump, because I just tested spark at 11pm when it's very quiet, and I can clearly hear the sound of sparks. Tried cranking for 30s, no avail... so it's probably some signal from the ECU to the fuel pump (Circuit Opening Relay?) that is not hooked on the rusEFI board. T...

My hope is that the car will actually run as-is. Looking at your logs, the ECU never really gets a chance to complete two injection/ignition cycles to start the car. AS AndreyB already pointed out, rusEFI is not quite at OEM ECU speed when it comes to recognizing cranking. This means that it will ty...

Post 4)

Reserved

Post 3) After you install the spring and the tophat, all that's left is to add the upper bumper and associated hardware. You can either use the black rubber part that came with your original strut, or you can use the part you cut off the Honda bumpstop. Supposedly this will make for a slightly smoot...

Post 2) Time to install the spring perch. It consists of two aluminum nuts and a plastic washer. One of the aluminum nuts has a lip. That is the actual spring perch. The spring will surround the lip. The other aluminum nut acts as a locknut. The plastic washer is supposed to reduce NVH, so why not u...

Post 1) This is a short description on how to assemble the famous (infamous?) Miata "eBay Bilstein" struts. This post leans very heavily of posts from Miata.net and Miataturbo.net. This post assumes you have the following: - 1 set of Miata NB Bilstein struts (either MSM, "Hard S" or B8) - 1 set of M...

One more question: Does TunerStudio show an rpm when you are cranking the engine?

You are positive the spark plugs don't fire, yet the LEDs light up? That's certainly weird. Just to make sure: Ignition is on? How did you confirm spark? A sparkplug in the sparkplug boot and grounded to the valve cover? If you are certain that the LEDs are lighting up, but there's no spark at all, ...

One more note: On the NA6 Miata the Fuel Pump is controlled by a switch in the MAF. The ECU has no impact.

Take a look here:
https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Installing-a-PnP-rusEFI-unit-in-a-Miata-startup-and-test

You pretty much got to step 4. Now it's time for step 5

When you say "writing a pre-set tune" are you referring to "Popular Vehicles" under the "Controller" menu? If TS still connects to your rusEFI, then download the tune currently on the rusEFI and post it here. The question is if it's standard tune that gets uploaded when the unit is new or if it stil...

We should also link to the releases from the website and not to the daily builds.

The most common killer of wires is continued bending. The highest bending stress is where the copper leaves the insulation jacket. This is where ending will occur and where, eventually the wire will fail and break off. The way to deal with it is to eliminate bending at that point. Crimped connectors...