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At some point mck1117 was planning to look into OEM ECU schematics but I am not sure what was the outcome. I traced out the OEM ECU, and didn't come up with anything interesting. They just had a 1k pulldown to ground, RC low pass filter, clamp diodes, then a buffer. Exactly the same circuit that we...

Yep, CAN should work fine on the bench.

Oh, it looks like they use standard J1979 (OBD2) messages, which we already support. There's a good chance they'll work out of the box without any firmware changes.

I don't think anybody has tried, but if they specify what CAN messages are required, we can easily add a preset for it.

looks to me like you have trigger sync! awesome!

iirc you need a jumper across those two pins to connect the max9926 to the MCU

sleepingAwake wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 02, 2020 11:52 pm

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 02, 2020 11:49 pm

sleepingAwake wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 02, 2020 11:47 pm

Just posted it.

oh boy your firmware is ancient

Shoot I thought I updated that.

I read wrong, it's actually quite recent

sleepingAwake wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 02, 2020 11:47 pm

Just posted it.

oh boy your firmware is ancient never mind it's very new

Yup, default output settings should then work okay. And if you do blow up the unobtanium SVX ignitor, you can always splice in the ultra common Bosch ignitors.

There are two bootloaders, and you guys are conflating them. 1. Bootloader in mask ROM installed by ST at the factory, we can't change this one. This is what we normally use for firmware upgrade over USB. 2. Custom bootloader in flash, installed along with firmware. No standard bundle has #2 include...

as far as I remember, git clone takes up too much space and network traffic, downloading unnecessary hardware-related files, datasheets, etc. I don't remember if I managed to find a solution to download it partially ;-( ... are you cloning every single time? You just need to git pull to update to l...

bill wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 24, 2020 11:38 pm

so the wire marked
7 ETB1+ etb ETB 1 positive
goes to the wire on the ETB that OPENS the flap when V+ is put on the motor, right?

Exactly! When battery + is connected to ETB+, the throttle should open.

Wire colors match. That's probably the correct pinout.

Part of switching + and - is because you'll likely see a slight conduction in one direction vs the other. AKA I might guess the red and black are the voltage source and the blue and white are the return signals. I suspect that you'll measure a slight reading on red and back with one particular pola...

Did you measure Red to black Red to white Red to blue Red to tan Red to yellow Try making those measurements with etb opened and closed. As well try with you meter + on red then again with - on red. It's just about guaranteed that it's a hall effect angle sensor. Resistance won't work, it's a volta...

i put an ohmmeter on this hitachi ETB, and the YELLOW and TAN wires were 7 ohms... so probably the motor, correct? Yep, that's probably the motor. and the RED, WHITE, BLUE , BLACK have no ohm reading... how do i determine which are the sensor position wires are? +5V ( probably RED) , GND ( probably...

quick question what size fuses on the ECB board power supply 12V + line? and on the main relay? 20A? thanks The ECU itself (pin 18) pulls very little current. Less than 0.1 amp typical, so a 1/3/5 amp fuse is fine for that. The main relay pin (pin 23) will pull whatever is consumed by the ETBs (whi...

question on GROUND which PIN Ground on the board is the big fat wire that goes to the battery terminal? and which grounds are just for fuel injectors returns, coil signal returns, etc. some are marked 17 GND y Power GND and (obviously) the analog sensor grounds are marked 7 GND sgnd Sensor GND than...

Even if that engine has IAC(s), just use the etb. We support idle control with the etb which is much smoother than using and idle valve.

Easy to check with the raw voltage gauges. CLT/IAT should indicate roughly 5v, and others should indicate roughly 0v. No external HW required.

With less than a 36 tooth wheel you wold kick their butts, more then 36 they beat you if they are adjusting the timer clock speed to match the trigger wheel and cranking rpm, if not you probably beat them with every setup. I think you're slightly missing the point. Timer resolution and rollover beh...

Just be glad that the MAP doesn't indicate in Pascals!

Currently not a way to do it. We'd have to do it seni-manually by adding converted versions of each gauge/table/config and selectors in TS for each one.

The size of the timer counter isn't particularly important. The rollover logic to "extend" the timer is pretty straightforward. It's only complicated if you need to schedule events multiple rollovers in the future. Our 1mhz, 32 bit timer rolls over every 71 minutes, so that's not a concern.

Any identifying marks on the connectors? Most have a part number or at least manufacturer logo hidden on them somewhere.

neongreen wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:55 am

Will this just allow reading of standard SAE1979 PIDs?

Yep. Normal scan tools work with rusEfi.

Joey120373 wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 11, 2020 4:47 pm

Do I need to put some thermal compound on the thermal pad?

No, you need to solder the thermal pad. Soldering the pad is required for proper operation of the chip.

I will remind you of a recent post, by you, recommending precision and control when running an engine: https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=36927#p36927

The cost of adding an stm32f0 and 5v/3v regulator is essentially zero.

When you load the software in your board some presets are set. À newbee doesn't know how it works and perhaps may not use always the correct package. The result is some incorrect setup. Whould it be possible to separate the software update from preset settings so a user can correct his error by app...