rusefi.com

Oh yeah, two more things I just recalled... 1.) The ECM still disconnects every time I do a burn (using TunerStudio and rusEFI software), and it will randomly disconnect when the engine is cranking/running. I have to reconnect via connection settings. 2.) When cranking, the LCD and TunerStudio shows...

Here's my current tune:
As for injectors, the are 167cm3/min. I've researched and researched then I found it (when I first replaced the injectors before starting the rusEFI project). They are the same injectors they used on the 90's Cadillac.

Now to figure out how to get the damn thing to "start" easily. It takes about a minute or so of cranking before it tries to fire. After it tries to fire, its 100% throttle (0% fuel while cranking) then another 45sec or so of cranking before it starts. Runs really rich on idle, clears up at...

So, I put the fuel pump back on PE4, default inverted. Put the ground lead to bat+ and its working now.

Ah now I see...hahaha.

So, yellow wire = MAIN relay (12v+ when ignition is on)
Grey wire = (rusefi - fuel pump default-inverted) so when rusefi requests fuel pump, it "grounds" the grey wire.

Or, if that doesn't work, then like you said I'll find an injector driver not used for it.

Hello again, sorry I didn't see all the replies yet... The relay came with the fuel pump, along with the wiring harness. Ok, here's the pinout (wiring) of the relay... RED Bat + HIGH 12V PURPLE PUMP + switched 12V Grey Ground - trigger Yellow Trigger (rusefi) + HIGH 12v Logic: When rusefi sends 12v ...

Question for the electronics gurus here... Will this relay work for my fuel pump? Fuel pump requirements: 12v DC, 25amp Relay link: https://www.amazon.com/Yeeco-Current-Normally-Electric-Transfer/dp/B00R7TTSMI/ DC5v30A It appears that the trigger (rusefi side) is 5v, and the control (fuel pump side)...

Gotchya, so my best bet would be to replace the relay with something that rusefi can work with.

Ok, so I know what's going on with the fuel pump...It's not getting enough amps to push the relay to start the pump. I've tested with voltmeter and here's what I get... Without relay connected it pushes 13.3v, once I put relay in line, it drops to 5.7v. The relay is a 12v30/40amp relay to run the fu...

Ok, so that fixed that error. Now I get the TPS error is too low (-17%)

Also, I now have no signal going to my ignition controller, and no fuel pump signal. Well, I think I'll be double checking everything now...haha

Looking at my first post, I've updated my TunerStudio settings. Now to burn them and test...

That's all it showed on the LCD screen. But the full pinout showed what I needed - Ignition 4 is also using PE10. I've gotta figure out where everything goes now...lol My notebook with everything written in it is so faded I can barely read it. It's been sitting in the car for the whole winter and al...

Hello, So a most annoying thing is happening. Here's what I've done: 1.) Downloaded latest firmware build (snapshot_20170403_2148_rusefi) 2.) Used STM32 ST-LINK Utility to "Wipe", "Burn", and "Verify" the hex - I used the rusefi_debug.hex file (I've tried both and get t...

Ok, so I'm back now...hopefully for a while to get this darn thing up and running. So, a little history...I get this thing running decent - then shut it off and try to start it again - it then runs like crap, missing, backfiring, etc. Then it doesn't tune well. Find out fuel pump went out. I did thi...

By any chance, can I get the settings for the miata 1.6l?

Mainly fuel, cranking (timing, dwell, etc). Basically what it needs to start and run (fuel map, tps multiplier, coolant multiplier)

I'd like to see if it works better than sitting outside at 0degrees guessing.

The complete error as rusEfi shows in logs:

WARNING: trigger not happy current 1/0/0 expected 8/0/0

I'll ignore if recommended or not important.

Ok, so here's the error when I load the ini file: 1 Warnings: Warning: MSQ Units Mismatch for ignitionIatCorrLoadBins! Temperature found in current configuration, Load found in MSQ, values were not converted to new units. Is this something I need to worry about? Also, the controller's LCD displays: ...

Ok, so I think I got it figured out... I just updated my project with the new/current rusefi.ini file. It gave an error on something not matching up...temperature I think, but it is now stable and connected via TunerStudio. It detected that some settings were different (I erased the board then refla...

I've tried three different cables that I use to root phones. The lengths vary from 1foot to 3feet. This is directly on the discovery board (mini usb for power, micro usb for programming). It is stable on the rusEfi console. It will connect and stay connected with any of the above mentioned cables. T...

Good day everyone. How goes the battle? Well, I'm back to getting this vehicle running. However, after updating to the newest firmware, it will not stay connected to TunerStudio. It keeps "Reading Controller Settings...", then it fails and wants to go into offline mode. I cannot change any...

Correct, since day 1 - I have had intermittant (random) connection drops on both tunerstudio and rusefi.

The new java version seems to have resolved the issue - the software now opens, in a few I'll go out and see if it can connect.

It doesn't give much for troubleshooting, but here's a screenshot:

How's it going? It's been a while. So, I've downloaded the newest firmware, however when trying to run the efi software, it gives me a Javascript exception, then closes. The older software still works. If I copy the two files "rusefi_console" application and executable jar file it opens an...

That's awesome, thank you. I'll give it a try as soon as I have a couple hours free. My truck uses the same stepper, or one that's really close. You might find some bread crumb in that thread about IAC. If you can decode my semi cryptic notes, I think this is the snippet you are looking for. Also if...

The o2 sensor I purchased was this one: WO2's come in different variations, most common are LSU 4.2's and LSU 4.8's. I'm sure OEM's use different variants, or perhaps they meet one of the LSU specs. If you don't get the a controller that matches your WO2, it probably won't work well. Best to get a c...

Well, I've got the noisy trigger figured out (for the most part) - it was a bad/horrible connection (not ready to cut the pickup wires I used vampire taps - it's now cut, soldered, and shrink-tube sealed in the distributor). It still "jumps" around occasionally when cranking, but only when...

Yes, your right. That was a little "vague" haha. Ok, following the instructions it is now functioning (yes vague again...). Thank you for the assistance. So, I've changed the fuel calculations back to speed density. There's a couple things I've noticed that you may be able to resolve/shed ...

And I also tried Program Firmware/Release. Forgot to mention above.

Sorry for my delay - been a bit tied up. So, here's the file requested: CurrentTune.msq Also, I was changing some settings and in the middle of a burn TunerStudio disconnected. The ECM will no longer function. It lights up but the LCD is blank. I closed everything out, disconnected the ECM from powe...

Ok, so here's what I have... Getting ready for the tear-down I recalled that I heard the same squeal when I was getting ready to turn the engine over again. I tracked it down to my fuel pump. The fuel pump was going out and causing a squealing noise. So I figured - it's not that bad. I replaced the ...