rusefi.com

That might be it. I did a git-svn checkout of the repo in sourceforge so I could have accurate revision history instead of the repo-sync that the rusefi github repo has. That's been my working copy so I don't have to wait for the repo sync change to get my code. It keeps the possibility of committin...

russian wrote: Why does it not show up @ https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/branches ?

Good question, will figure that out tomorrow. Used git for years, new to github though.

And..here is the github repo.
https://github.com/jmt42/rusefi-code

Thanks kb1gtt, you've been very helpful in the hardware side of it. My knowledge of hardware stops at the logical part of it. I get registers, timers, buses and adc's but once you throw a resistor or a diode in there I'm a little out of my element :D. In other news, It works! I tested it earlier, th...

I agree about having both lines separate, was trying to not splurge on my low side outputs. Then it occurred to me that A) we don't have a shortage of those (not in this ecu anyway) and B) I don't expect to add more functionality. Yesterday I wired it like this: 1J - W36 (D7 Low side ) 2S - W57 (E5 ...

Thinking about it... Even if the OEM configuration was a passive ECU and the relay was enabled by the a/c switch. I think it would be better (and more generic) although not simpler if the ecu had an active role where it had complete authority over the a/c subsystem. At this point it's wired that way...

Looks good to me don't forget the diodes Sorry, confused, where would the diodes go in that schematic? Wait a second, are you saying something is controlled electrically, not via the firmware? Looks like in this setup the ECU is not really turning anything on, it's just informed of the A/C status s...

Hi tomiata, I've solved the ICV noise on my 94 miata, it turns out the hum is not the ICV it's in the airbox. Touch the airbox while running and you'll feel it. I think its caused by a harmonic with the icv frequency and the intake chamber. Here's the link to the fix, works for me and hasn't broken ...

AC Input detection works, more details along with a more complete and detailed explanation of the hows and whys to come. But in short, disregard the earlier schematic I posted and jump 1Q to W50, and check that "eval ac_enable" it corresponds to the switch positions. And it works, heater l...

Here is my interpretation of kb1gtt's schematic as applied to my frankenso board. Can somebody with more knowledge about electronics have a look at this and confirm that it looks sane? 1J 1Q -- (R10K)--| | D7 Low side | | 2S 1S -- (R10K)--------| | E3 Low side W50 Input

Yay, thanks. Questions regarding the ports to be used on the frankenso side. - A few posts back Russian mentioned using W50 as an input. Is that still valid? Do I have to have any pull ups, he mentioned it's already setup with a 10K, - For the output, what is the snubbing diode stuff you mentioned. ...

Ok, here are the results: All measurements where done with the frankenso board in car. Battery disconnected, engine switch in run position. Black Lead on car - Red on frankenso If the A/C button is turned on we get .518 voltage drop on the 1Q line to ground. Irrelevant of fan position, even in off. ...

Ok, here are the results of testing resistance. The resistances here are the lowest I found per a/c setting. The ones on 1S fluctuated a lot. From a few hundred ohms to those values. I re-checked the line with fan setting 1 many times. I verified with the stock ecu, setting one engages the compresso...

Am I correct that so far page 1 of this link seems to match your setup? http://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-Miata-Wiring/94sys.pdf Yes Will to the resistance test tonight. On the OEM setup, does the AC only work when on the low fan setting and AC switch is active? A/C works on the higher settings. ...

I don't have an oscilloscope, all i have is a multimeter :( . To my knowledge you need an oscilloscope to measure frequency. Also, I was thinking about it and there are no frequency sources (in the schematics anyways) tied to those wires. I measured these values with the frankenso in the car at the ...

I agree, funny values. Didn't look like pwm, it was fairly steady. Unfortunately I don't have a scope to make reliably test that. I did confirm them using different grounds just to make sure.

Ok, here are the results of the measurements. Both output lines work as expected. Compressor and fan worked without a hitch. The input lines have some surprises, here is the data. All quantities in volts O = Open 1S | 1Q | AC | Fan ------------------------------- Op | .36 | OFF | OFF Op | .36 | ON |...

RPM usually increases (do not know the reason though - the newer -EFI- range rovers had such feature, as probably had toyota and may be something else), plus the fan turns on at lower temperature with AC on, and at higher - when AC is off (at least, AFAIK old audis had two-positions thermo-switches...

I want to test that the A/C lines do what is expected from the schematic before connecting them to the board. Using this http://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-Miata-Wiring/94sys.pdf as a reference. I want to test, another one of the miatas on this board reported his wiring didn't match to the schemati...

Hi, quick post to document case mods to fit a frankenso board into mazda ECU case. As per the recomendation here (http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware:Mazda_PnP#Case_Donor) I got a BPA9 ecu from ebay. $30 bucks shipped, it can be gotten for less. It required a bit of work with a dr...

Quick update, I got a case for the board, it needed some modifications but it works like a charm. The idle control works. Russian has to make some changes to the code to make it straightforward. But when everything is said an done. This should work: set_idle_rpm 900 set_idle_enabled 1 Right now it's...

So this is why that steady stream of commits to the repo suddenly stopped.

This is awesome! I just had a look at known_issues.txt and I see a lot of meaningful improvements over 0.1.
Can't wait to see it in action!

Unbelievable what you guys have accomplished.

Ok, did some testing.

Got 12.0 Ohms across the ICV solenoid.

Ran it for 30 minutes at a duty cycle of 400 with a frequency 500. The engine was off and cold. The solenoid got slightly lukewarm, no strange sounds.

I tried those commands. No effect. Holds an idle of 1600 without any changes. It responds to set_idle_pwm just fine, and I can make it hold an idle of around 900. Still have to test that the solenoid is ok with these settings, haven't checked anything yet, the car has not had a chance to cool down. ...

Good news everyone. The humming noise is gone. Sounds like a stock engine. Setting the ICV solenoid frequency to 500 did it. Mine board has a diode an from what I read elsewhere that is a really good thing. set_idle_solenoid_freq 500 writeconfig // restart the board // start your engine and enjoy th...

Yeah, those temperatures look reasonable, would like to make sure the calibration for the CLT sensor is sane (it looks that way?) As for the humming sound, here's some info http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=172015 I peeked at the code and the miata runs at 160 (Hz?); the stock ecu runs at 5...

Ok, tested. Everything seems to be working. The fan engagement temp was 75C and my engine was not cool enough. Eventualy, everything cooled down and I got to test engagement and disengagement. Here is a sample output of the command: 2014-11-16 20_50: PortHolder: Sending [sec!8!tempinfo] 2014-11-16 2...

Have an issue with fan control. Will have more time to hunt it down later but in the mean time i'm posting it here. Issue: Fan is on all of the time. fanbench has no effect. What I did: I followed russian's instructions here: http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=729&p=12375#p12375 Thi...

Yeah, found a few pages for other EMS's. The clearest one was: http://www.miataturbo.net/aem-59/ems-4-tach-setup-60653/ So I slapped a 2.2k ohm resistor I had laying around as a pullup to +12v and it works beautifully. Will change that to a 1.8K (don't have any 2k ones laying around) and see how it ...

Confirmed... no noise with set_idle_pin off, and I have a diode. My current theory is that the frequency of the PWM signal is to low and the solenoid jiggles a bit instead of holding. I saw this back when I had a MS. Have to dig up the discussion, but the issue was that. Also, confirmed grounding 1L...