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Capture from my new obsession, getting this thing running with a 4 tooth wheel and simultaneous injection. It sounded like it wanted to start, but as I went on cranking it became less and less willing. Do you think the preset of 5ms cranking injector duration is too rich? I'm going to crawl the mega...

That's what I came up with too. I gave up on the single tooth and sequential injection until I can get an additional vr conditioner in the proto area so instead I've gone back to the 4 tooth wheel and am trying to start on that alone. If the wheel triggers at tdc on every cylinder, and the distribut...

Ok, here's a capture of what I'm dealing with now. Crank trigger is working great, but I'm having a terrible time with the "1 tooth" cam position wheel. 16 tooth is center (8 per crank rotation) and the cam sync is up top. Cam trigger is currently configured with 0R to ground and a 4.7k re...

I just meant the oscilloscope trace in the other post. I don't have the sniffer capture on my phone to post just yet. Here's a reference I found for using a megasquirt with the 24+1 setup. They say to use falling edge on the cam trigger, perhaps because of its strange shape? https://www.diyautotune....

Thanks for that diagram, that's what I was thinking but I wanted to make sure I'm not crazy. Other progress, I fixed the fuel pump not turning on (bad solder, reflow), and realized I'm a fool with the no3 injector not working (wrong output in tunerstudio). While I was at it, I switched the cam input...

Problem with that is I have the lcd kit, so I have no vertical space above the proto area. I think I could put a mosfet bent 90 degrees and solder it to the board as a heatsink, but that's probably the limit of my space. Maybe if I could do the same with one of those boards, but I only need a few am...

I'd like to keep everything internal if I can, could I find a dip package high side switch and slap it into the prototyping area? Do you think the board would provide enough of a heat sink if I'm only pushing 0.5A? Another option is I could just throw a mosfet on and use one of the low side drivers ...

Out of curiosity, what do you think the highest sustained current I could pull out of the high side drivers is? I'm looking at how to hook up the vtec solenoid so I need to provide 12v from the ecu. Estimates online predict 0.5A for the solenoid, but I don't know if that's peak or hold current.

When installing the jumpers I used the pinout of the factory harness and made sure all the grounds are connected, so if it connected to the ecu, it's connected to frankenso.

I've yet to see any official documentation on shielding for the wires (I'll check my service manual), but some searching turned up a picture where it looks like all 3 pairs of vr wires are bundled into the same shield. And as a reminder, I'm using all stock wiring with the addition of a jumper harne...

It seems to vary. I'm not being very helpful right now because I'm at work so I'll have to make more detailed observations when I'm home. I think when I first reset the unit both are off, then it depends where the wheels land after cranking I think.

I believe my sensors to be the exact same ones as used in the accord, just with fewer teeth on the wheel. Honda guys have been swapping distributors and ecus for decades now without problems, so I don't think the oem wiring is suspect either. Current plan is to scope the sensor by itself (no ecu) an...

Ok, I populated the 0r to ground because I saw that done on a number of other boards with vr triggers. Do you think just getting rid of those will set me on the right track or do I need to pull the signal to 2.5v myself? I'll probably bust out the scope tonight and make sure I have a decent signal f...

I guess so. I guess I'm mostly curious about how you had your accord set up if you know any more about that. I imagine you did everything according to how the manual has it, except substituting the tdc sensor (4 tooth) for the cam position.

Don't have a screenshot right now, but I don't have rising edge checked because that seems to lock me out of the console, requiring a reset from my pc. There should be continuity, soldered them with paste and they pulled into place just fine. I try to be conservative with my solder so it doesn't loo...

I tried with them both installed and uninstalled, I've got pretty similar results in either case. Uninstalled I get rpm signal briefly, but don't get the trigger counts I should be getting. Leds blink pretty frequently while cranking. No plugs in for smoothness.

Ok I'm back. I got the capacitors and haven't had a chance to install them since then. My alternator went out, my radiator sprung a leak and my front ball joints failed. Oh, and my other car is out of commission for a cylinder head job. Anyway, got the caps in place and it works less than before. I ...

The picture is supposed to be a 16+4, with16 being the top. The 4 tooth wheel looks very clear to me, and I believe is the exact same wheel used in many other Hondas. The 16 tooth is the being jumbled by noise so I'm still waiting on parts to try and fix that.

Didn't manage an engine start today, it seems I'm still missing a few things. 1. I forgot to install a jumper for the ignition driver... 2. I think I need a custom trigger written up just like the accord 24+1 or 24+4 wheels, but as 16+1 or 16+4 (both would be cool, call them Honda OBD0?) 3. I didn't...

I'm still alive and even have updates! I've got the unit mostly complete (I've skipped a few nice to have features and made a few compromises that might haunt me) and I'm at the point of plugging it in and cranking (well, I did plug it in and blew a fuse because a pinout I found on the internet was ...

It's been a while since I've done anything on the ECU, and I think it's about time I finished it. It's been sitting nearly finished since I last posed in April, and I'm tired of having it around and not doing anything. No promises of it happening in the next few weeks, school still will have to come...

Stuck a 0R in W101 and ran without RV101 and the LCD is working well enough for me. I also installed a pin header and an extra-long pc jumper I found in my things to enable/disable lcd power. I may also put some of these on the high-side drivers because why not?

I suppose I'll tack a 500 then and see how it goes. I'll try to err on the side of too little resistance since the resistance should increase with heat, right?

I don't have the circuit in front of me, is that 1-2k total (including r99) or 1-2k in addition to r99 or is it a divider that needs 1-2k on the other leg?

Looks like the contrast resistor is at fault after all. I thought I saw r99 on the front of the board by the crystal but I can see now that I was mistaken. I don't think rv101 comes in the kit, is it necessary to populate, or is there a way I can bypass/substitute some ordinary resistors? (or is it ...

Flashed firmware with console, that all seems to be working well. I don't have the usb ttl finished yet so I can't test console+TS yet, but they seem to both work individually. LCD has backlight when I jumper the power, but no text (is there a different firmware I need for LCD?). I'm powering the wh...

I haven't made any updates for a while, but I AM working on it still (just not as fervently). Up to this point I have done basically everything except figure out the resistor values I need for the Honda sensors (russian, maybe you have these already?), the jumpers I'll need to set up on the harness ...

I was using the first set already (as well as the .1/.2 where applicable). Those last 2 are what I was looking for.

Board arrived Wednesday. Since then, I've completed the power supply as well as soldered a lot of the main ICs. PSU tests good on my "12V" wall wart so it shouldn't be a concern. Does anyone have some hi-res pics of an assembled 0.4 board? I'm running into some questions about chip orienta...

Now I feel dumb for not seeing the giant pin diagram above the one I was looking at... As far as soldering, I've done some work with surface mount projects (DACs mostly) so I'm not entirely new but I'll admit I have no experience with solder paste and reflow so we'll see how that goes. I suppose now...