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I would like to suggest doing sections. AKA solder in something like the CAN chips, and make sure it works, then install the MAX chip for crank decoding, etc. Doing it bit by bit can be really helpful when something goes wrong. Also if you can get you patience to allow it, doing it in small steps i...

I think they're only running 310kPa, or 3.1 Bar (45psi), but that's still a lot. Based on the MSQ it appears to be a 1.6L 4 cylinder, but I can't really tell much beyond that without tunerstudio (and I probably couldn't get much more with it) Is it a Honda of some sort? I notice a pretty high rev li...

As someone who assembled the kit version, I suggest you save up for the fully assembled. It took me months to assemble. While I appreciate the skills I learned doing so, it's not something I would recommend as a first smd project.

So what you have is a 36-1 wheel turning at half speed for your crank primary trigger. (I know it's connected to your cam, but it's still timed against the crank timing. Cam input is more for vvt and TDC sensing.) @russian, can rusefi get crank timing if it doesn't see a missing tooth every crank ro...

I don't see why we need two tables in RAM, at the same time, as you can only operate from one, and switching between tables happens very rarely. Wouldn't two active fuel tables be a necessity for flexfuel/E85? E85 ethanol content can vary pretty substantially, afaik, so tuning for just E85 wouldn't...

The pin assignments are a bit daunting at first, but you just need to take it a step at a time. The "Cam speed trigger input" is called "Secondary Channel" on the leftmost column. Forget about the All pins menu for now and use the individual settings menus, part of the documentat...

SUCCESS! After correcting the reset pullup, it still didn't work. Did some more digging and noticed the MCP2561 (I used because the MCP2562 was on backorder) isn't exactly pin compatible with the MCP2562 (the VREF pin is switched for the SPLIT pin) and applying voltage to the SPLIT pin causes the MC...

Having a modern scope would probably save me a lot of headache in the future, but I think that's going to be a purchase for another day.

Haven't put a scope on it yet, that's next on the list. After that I think I need to finally give in and get a bus pirate or other logic analyzer so I can actually see what's going on. edit: I did some more reading of the datasheet (almost like I should have done that better when I started) and I ha...

I removed the crystals, laid down a pair of 22pf caps and set the crystal back on top of them. I'm actually pretty proud of how well it fit together, but still no luck with communication. I think I found a problem in the example code I was using, but I still don't have any results, so I think I'll n...

I don't know how much calculating I can do when I'm going to be dead-bugging the caps onto the crystal, but 22uf seems a common choice with this chip so I'll start there and see where it gets me. I'll have to recalculate when I move to a new layout. That tip with touching the chip to start it is hel...

It's certainly been a while since I promised to update. I got the boards a few weeks after I last posted. I assembled them, they didn't work, and then they got put into a bin and shelved while I try and sort through the rest of my unfinished projects (it didn't work). So here I am at work, thinking ...

EDIT: There's already support for per-cylinder ignition timing offsets, right? Might this combo work? - Set to 4 cylinder, 2 stroke (90 degrees between cylinders) - Ignition outputs 1/2 go to the 1st rotor, and 3/4 go to second - Set extra ignition advance to 0/80/0/80 for channel 1/2/3/4 respective...

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2424 This is going back to the stepper vs servo debate, but these steppers are really cheap because of their use in GM instrument clusters, and are already used in an automotive application. They're marginally more complex to drive than a servo, but are very compact,...

Good luck with the project. What you're doing with the jumper harness is basically the same thing I did with mine (except I was coming from obd0). Documentation is a little sparse, but the Accord and Prelude on the wiki will have most of the wiring info you need. Also watch out, I seem to recall one...

Yeah the wiring should be pretty similar on 93. In my case, I wired the ECU for an OBD1 Honda pinout, which was used from 1992 to 1995, because that's what the aftermarket settled on. To adapt my engine harness to the ECU I use an off the shelf obd0-obd1 jumper harness, that way I can plug in the fa...

https://e85prices.com/e85map

Flex fuel is something I'd be quite interested in, especially for those running boosted setups.

It's not too far off topic :) Either way, I'm still waiting on boards and I'll update when that happens and I get them assembled. The discussion so far has given me some insight into what is wanted from a CAN bus and what to implement as far as protocols, but I'm not much of a programmer so we'll ha...

6. What wideband sensor do you recommend for the 1.8 miata and rusEFI? Should I bother buying the controlling gauge as well? I don't have any experience with them, but I've seen a number of megasquirt users recommending 14Point7 Wideband controllers and gauges Their base offering is a controller an...

Power over Ethernet operates at up to 57v and 960ma (per pair) depending on the version of the standard and the negotiated rate between the devices, but it isn't an option here (it's fairly complex and expensive to implement). Even with up to two steppers, AVR and LEDs, the current should be well wi...

you can design a board that would accomodate all those can-related stuff like the shield above + an automotive-grade 5V power supply, an old good avr microcontroller (mega328?), an ISP connector to flash the firmware and a placeholder for switec stepper motor. You can the use such boards for buildi...

I've given myself a week or so to think about the design to make sure I don't make any other stupid mistakes (I ordered a set before I posted and screwed up the MCP2515 footprint) and after giving the design another look I don't see any glaring flaws. I've also added lines to the connectors so all 8...

Using the CANOpen pinout is a really good idea. I think the thought crossed my mind but I forgot before I actually implemented it. The two pins I've used so far match the CANOpen pinout, but I also forgot that CAN needs a common ground between all nodes which I planned to pass over the ethernet cabl...

Not directly rusefi related, but it's tangentially related to vehicle hacking and retrofitting, and I think this could be useful. In an attempt to better familiarize myself with circuit design and to help with one of my ongoing projects, I've "developed" a compact breakout board for the MC...

I think I've got it figured out. I had a spare distributor around so I refurbished it (needed a new center bearing) and I hooked it up to my scope and rusefi and spun it with a drill. After some adjusting, I had the ecu reliably reporting ~1800rpm, and with the drill claiming 850rpm I think it's wor...

I should measure exactly 0v to ground on that pin if the stm is pulling it low, so I'll check that. I also plan to connect one input on the tc to gnd and the other to 5v and see what kind of output I get. I should get one output off and the other on, but I have a feeling they're both going to come on.

I checked through all the firmware settings, but it's not that (MIL is on one of the low-sides). I even removed the discovery board completely and the problem persists, so it's definitely something hardware. I did some testing with the HL drivers and when I send 5v to one of the inputs, the other ou...

Did some probing today, and got some odd results. First, seems the Honda ICM does internally pull up to 12v, so that's not a problem. Ignition output is working exactly as intended. On the other hand, the LEDs on the TC4426 are all going pretty crazy. I only have jumpers connected to two of them, bu...

That's more or less what I meant to say, and I appreciate the clarity. So how I have it configured right now is the pin goes high, activating the low side driver and pulling the ignition pin low. After the dwell time has elapsed, the STM pin goes low, and the low side driver shuts off, and the ignit...

So I should hook it back up to the high/low driver? Then I assume I just connect the jumper to ground to set it low? Where does the driver hold the signal when it's not being activated? I understand the stock ecu to have a pullup to 5v on the ICM control pin which it then pulls low to charge, then l...