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What afr are you running at idle ? What is the CLT output ? This engine heats up pretty quickly, even when driving softly, I don't know why but I was surprised to see the coolant reach 70° in less than 3 minutes. Maybe it's just the fact that you're standing still and running at 2000rpm. Does the fa...

Do you still have the PCV valve connected ? The vacuum leak may come from it. Considering how loud is my idle screw on my mitata you should be able to easily spot the leak, or with the good old flammable liquid spray technique. What is the position of your throttle body without any power ? Is it ful...

If you are using the base VVT tune I think it is pretty rich at idle and low load and quite fine while running. At least it is what I observed

Gwendal

Hi all ! Today I had the opportunity tu try rusEFI on another car and I'm quite pleased about how it worked out. A friend of mine with a 2002 1.6 Miata has a possible alternator issue, the regulator doesn't regulate well and it sends 17v in the battery when running over 5k rpm... So to sort out if i...

Yup I'll leave the mechanical TB on the stock position, so it can eventually act like a failsafe.

For the TB I'm ready to try it out, I can try to tune the PID using an arduino before so that I can write a code quickly

Gwendal

Hi all ! I'm slowly preparing the "beast", starting by the fabrication of mechanical parts. After receiving the piping I cut steel for supercharger flanges and started welding today. Considering I discovered welding this morning the result is pretty good. It was done using stick (MMA) then...

Nice private off-road track you have here

Otherwise congratulations, nice to see everything going well, especially the ETB

Gwendal

Oh so you use pcb assembly services, what website are you using for that purpose ? I was considering getting into microrusefi but I'm not sure about the number of available low side outputs if I want to get into weird things like water/meth injection. I could as well use an Arduino over CAN but I wo...

If the catalytic converter is still in place it sounds pretty normal to me for an exhaust explosion. With the stock ECU on my full stainless exhaust (including cat removal) I sometimes get some pops like that on overrun (with a little bit of help tickling the gas pedal).

So I tried the low side driver for the CEL and it is not working. Seems it should be driven using +12V as +5V seem to barely light the bulb. As I'm dur to a 1000km trip next friday to get hoem I will not be able to test it anymore until mid September. I had one or two questions still. Is your engine...

Yeah backfire on the exhaust, it seems to happen when the throttle opens and air is allowed in again. No big deal except if you had a catalytic convertor, now it's probably toasted not as scartly as when I had my ignition reversed in a closed underground parking

Sounds promising tho

Gwendal

https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazda_Miata_2003 is the one stating low side should be used for CEL. https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazda_Miata_2003_alt is the one referring to high side driver for CEL. I used the wiring diagram from this one to build my harness and...

On the 2003 Miata page low side driver is specified, but on the 2003 alt which is working for me it's stated that high side driver should be used. So as I see it it's just a question of switching the wiring to an unused low side driver. Will try that tomorrow eventually and give you some feedback on...

Mine works but is very very shy, the light is very weak.
It's actually on 5v I think, maybe 12v is the answer but I don't want to burn it...

Thanks Nope it was the software configuration. Alternator control was working flawlessly before resetting the board and updating firmware, wiring is ok, so you answered my question perfectly. For check engine it's the pin mode in tunerstudio and the voltage jumper to select on the high ohm stage. Gw...

Do you know the config for nb2 Miata alternator control ? It was activated with presets before firmware update but now I'm not so sure of it And for the check engine light ? I might need to setup a fsio for an exhaust cutout when I eventually find a welder able to add it to my stainless midpipe or e...

Feel pretty stupid right now

Yeah sure, why not ! I wasn't paying attention to battery voltage but it seems I was at 10.2V when I started the car... My engine light is wired but the glow was very weak, I think it's better now but not sure of the voltage/output mode configuration. Would the fsio be able to flash check engine lig...

Hi all! So today I needed to go to the grocery store 500m away from my internship and decided to go daily with rusEFI 😅 So here is what happened : - Car started and idled great - Engine got to working temperature at a normal rate, indicating I wasn't running too rich or with weird settings - I was d...

Nevermind sorted the issue and now the car runs great. I was able to start the car with a pretty cold engine (20°c) and after more than a day sitting. Obviously it was the solder joint that bothered me once again. And because I know how much you love that, a small video of me rolling in the basement...

Hi all! So I may have been cursed by the god of soldering, I think I had one more issue with a cold joint on the trigger chain (the 100Ohm resistor before the MCP6004). I had like 0.2s of sync showing 127 RPM and the sniffer just picks random trigger events. I measure a resistance ok like 10K instea...

russian is right, by putting the throttle before the charger I need to source a dummy throttle body for the stock location (which costs more than twice the cost of the ETB install and is harder to uninstall for sleeperness when needed). Fabrication of a steel throttle body flange MIG welded to some...

Hi folks! So I'm gonna stop polluting other threads for my personal interest :) For my supercharger application I need two throttle bodies : -1 in the stock location with the IAC attached to it, it will be the stock one -1 before the supercharger to be able to put it under vacuum So it will be : Air...

Hi guys, sorry to revive this with my issues but I need your advices ;) I will need a second throttle body for my Miata with the supercharger to deal with idle issues and everything. My plan was to let the stock one in place and use a E46 Bosch ETB (14£ off eBay) to choke the charger and avoid the u...

Hi folks ! Sorry for the time between posts, I've been in an intership in Belgium this summer (it's not completed yet) and didn't have the opportunity to work on my rusEFI. As I'm home for a week I just reflashed the board with latest ST and rusEFI Firmware and prepped the board for next week, as I ...

If you assembled the board yourself, identify the problematic channels and redo all the solder joints. I had a similar problem due to poor solder adhesion and cold solders

Gwendal

It was the ending of my school year I was quite busy and didn't get the opportunity.
I'm off for some hiking in French Alps until Wednesday. I should then be able do dedicate some time to it.

Gwendal

Yes it was happening with only TunerStudio connected. I will try the full erase and hopefully test if it is working tomorrow. I'm so close now 😅 can't wait to drive on RUSEFI For Russian, I was wondering if you would be interested in me building a PNP ECU based on the new TLE8888 architecture which ...

I added the log just when you were replying
And here is the tune file : Gas has been done don't worry I try to avoid filling with 93, waiting for my injector filters to come to install 420cc and run E85

Thanks for your help

Gwendal

I'm actually planning to install a M62 supercharger on it so I will have to run RusEFI permanently. I will do it as soon as possible. I've tried your values, the car starts pretty well now but I may have a software bug as I'm unable to reach over 2900rpm without having trigger errors and loud bangs,...