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[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66YTuWwbUkc[/video]

Quick video of my car idling on RusEFI. Ignore the smoke coming out the engine bay lol, I think a weld of mine cracked, because my exhaust is hanging a bit low right now as well.

What are you trying to do? Would a wire betwen PD1 and VSS help? https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/blob/master/firmware/tunerstudio/docs/63-ECU_stimulator.png?raw=true My car is currently undriveable due to a clutch issue, however I’d like to dial in the speed calculation. I’m guessing a wire there ...

Would it be possible to use the current self-stimulation that is used for RPM, for VSS?
Would it be a matter of moving some pin assignments in Tunerstudio?

According to this on-line calculator, I would expect about a 0.2V drop from this 16AWG wire. http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=13.17&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=2&distanceunit=meters&amperes=4&x=79&y=...

Should just be under custom wheel 36 for # teeth and 2 for missing teeth, no? Yes. Please also note that you are not giving me the information I am asking for. Do you mean it runs on rusefi? Want to post a video? Want to post cranking logs? Ah, didn't even see the post about a video! Silly me, I ha...

Finally got home and had someone crank the engine while I was observing. The sensor does shake, and stays just in place. Moving the plate back and forth by hand was pretty darn difficult, so that worry was out of place. Next I had someone crank the engine while I manually changed the crank sensor ga...

A picture might help with comments. Was the OEM sensor surrounded by metal? If so was it a magnetic type of metal? It's possible that the metal around the sensor was originally steering magnetic flux, and is not doing that now. It's also possible that the metal around the OEM was functioning as a h...

Did you manage to keep the same gap on your sensor? It's possible your gap is larger or smaller than the original cap and it's creating a weak signal at low RPM. How rigid is the mount? Could it vibrate and shake around some? Yep crank sensor is gapped good. I use a .88mm feeler gauge to gap the se...

Is yours hall or VR? Can you check that your sensors is installed fully? If it has come loose, it could get away from the gear and fail to generate the signal. Perhaps try running a GND direct from your board to battery. If GND is lifting at the ECU it could cause some problems. Stock NB miata trig...

Tach will have to wait until I've got this new issue resolved. I'm pretty sure its hardware related (not on the board), that's causing this. Basically, I can turn over all I want, but I can't get an RPM sync. If I floor it, the starter motor has less load on it, RPMs go higher, sync occurs, then if ...

Tach shenanigans: I'm not too sure how the tach works exactly. Stepper motor. If I have too low a voltage going to the tach, will it work intermittently? I can check the tach voltage from the pin in the diag box. If its 5v, should I go to the jumper on the board for the tach out and switch to 12V? P...

I remember when I tested the ECU on the bench I was having some problems with the "Tachometer output pin" it was not creating any pulses but the "Dizzy out Pin" worked ok. I'll play around with this once I get the correct CAM/CRANK triggers. So my tach dances around with the tac...

You got your tach to work? I'm a bit lost on what you did to figure out on what you did to get it to work.
I'm using an assembled Frankenso. What settings are you running to drive the Tach?

stefanst wrote:I'll volunteer to contact Brad Barnhill, the lead developer behind Virtual Dyno to add a config for rusefi. I guess for that we'd need to decide what signature to use in TS.

Did this ever come through? I'm glad we have a solution for now, however.

Jumped timing as in actually skipping teeth on the belt? Wow. How curtain are you? Obviosly I had a LOT of backfiring while playing with all this but never any consequences on the belts. But you can always be the first one :) I heard a very squeaking when trying to get the car to start, and then su...

For non-VVT NB miata, cam is the "primary" signal and crank is the "secondary" signal. It turns out as I was removing the AC compressor from my car, I bumped the crank sensor. This changed the gap on the sensor, and made the computer think nothing was happening down there/very i...

I've been killing cam sensors left and right with what I'm assuming is something heat related, in my 2000 Miata. I came across this thread on Miataturbo https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/nb-cam-angle-sensor-heatsoak-failure-74009/page3/ Related sensor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cam-Shaft-Posit...

What does PC6 read? Cam or Crank sensor?
I'm not getting a good trigger on PC6, which is causing no spark/rpm read.

hip9011 Settings (knock decoder) (alpha version) - alpha version - very alpha version. Accessing SD without card removal - no way to do it, there is https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/140 My tach just works :( Not sure what could be wrong. Do I need to specify a dizzy output? The same pin as t...

2017-09-21_11.13.49.msl Alright car is finally running, and doesn't sound like hell unleashed (no more open downpipe). Couple of questions: Knock? Has any research been done on the knock thresholds for a Turbo'd 00 Miata? I've got an image attached of my thresholds that I've established based off t...

Okay did some more tracing (I'll be honest, I've never done this before, but its intuitive). It seems that to make wiring easier, there's a wire from the tachout pin, to the W12 pin. Does there need to be a trace in between W12 and the hole right behind it, for there to be a connection between it an...

Now to issue #2, no more tachout. I follow the Pe8 trace, and I can't see any physical damage. "no more" comparing with when? Please post picture of https://rusefi.com//wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Hi_side - do you have jumpers soldered there to provide +5v into th...

Unless JP11 ends are soldered together on the back, you have no signal from op-amps tp PC5. You need a 0R resistor or a piece of wire to get signal to PC5. Okay, the jumper seemed to do it when I played with the board outside the car. Now to issue #2, no more tachout. I follow the Pe8 trace, and I ...

russian wrote:Please post a picture of jp11 on your board.

Wasn't sure how to upload inline (I know photobucket doesn't work amazingly anymore). Image attached.

Do you have reason to believe the the jumper had been installed at some point? I believe it is not installed by default. I believe it would need to be installed if you had a specific need to use INPut11. I'm assuming you are working with a Frankenso, can you check if JP11 has anything installed in ...

russian wrote:Inp11 is one of the special inputs which has a break in the trace. Let me get to a larger device and I will get you the location of the junper which i believe you need to hook.

Do you believe that the jumper may've gone out?

Also is there a chance that a ground has been messed up as well?

I've determined that something's not right inside the ECU for the circuits on INP11 and tachout. I have CLT hooked to PC5. The ECU seems to oscillate around 84 degrees F, regardless if the sensor is plugged in or not. The sensor has a resistance of around 1444 ohms, which does not correlate to 84F f...

I'm having a conniption getting my connections to stay reliable when repinning ECU connectors. Did you have a chance to watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv02bCy0yQs ? Once you get into the rhythm you can remove and install pins into our favorite conector pretty easily. I just used some more &q...

My CPS is relocated, so I had to change my timing offset to -2. if your CPS is moved maybe better change global trigger offset so that you have real TDC position and you do not need to shift any timings? Also do you really care for 2 deg of injection timing? Under "Setup Trigger Offset" (...

Similar to how MS uses a DB15 for running custom outputs, is it possible for a newer board to come with an automotive grade connector mounted to the board? I'm having a conniption getting my connections to stay reliable when repinning ECU connectors. The only issue I see is space, especially to fit ...