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That's great success indeed. Perfect way to not go crazy (or crazier as the case may be) during the shutdown.

The NB2 does have a "boost sensor". NB1 has it as well, as far as I know. I don't remember how the air-side of this sensor is connected though. If I understand correctly, It is used to ensure that the EGR solenoid is opening correctly and exhaust gas makes it into the intake. The assumptio...

On the more application-oriented side: Are we keeping the TFI and distributor? Just using the vanes in the distributor to read position and do individual coils? Install a crank-sensor for improved resolution? Sooo many options....

This may be cheating, but the Megasquirt guys sell an adapter board and the connector:

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diybob-breakout-adapter-ford-60-pin-no-connector/

Unflipped is confirmed

AndreyB asked me to do some testing on my NA Miata to confirm (or not) what is happening here. So I immediately jumped into action and stayed on my sofa. But I did hook up a rusefi to a JimStim simulating an NA Miata. Result with firmware from September 2019: Miata NA Old FW.png And this is what we...

Holy S&%t!

Congratulations.

What I don't know is how they get zeroed when you turn off the ignition. Is the dash getting constant power from the room fuse? I mean the fuel gauge can stay where it is, but all the other ones, especially the tach should probably get zeroed with shutting down ignition.

I think these steppers usually self-zero during startup. You start the power to the dash and they go a few steps negative to zero against the hard stop.
The above referenced steppers are what's used in most OEM dashs. They are designed for instrument use.

[...] What's the INJ current across the 0 ohm resistors. Is it single INJ per mosfet and the STM32 batches them, or can you connect 2 INJ per mosfet. Basically is 0805 ok or do I use 1206. Old Miatas run batch injection with 2 injectors per channel. Several of these are running with 0 problems so f...

Sorry- I forgot about the promised tune files! Here is a fuel tune and and aggressive (93 octane ONLY!) timing tune for turbo NB1. You should definitely drop the timing considerably. Maybe divide by 1.1 across the board to be safe. I had this running on a 99 head with a 94 bottom which drops the com...

Simple observations: Your MAP calibration is off. Should be around around 100kpa before cranking. 30 also seems low while running at 1800rpm or so. AFRs are super-rich. Lean that out. It may help drop the idle a bit. If idle stays high, hold something (your hand?) in front of the throttle plate. Blo...

Welcome to rusefi! Looks like you're running a weld-el manifold with a chinacharger? Can't see your wastegate. What are youdoing for boost control? What injectors are you running? NB Miatas have fixed fuel pressure, so the more boost you're running the faster you run out of fuel on a stock injector....

I think best use of W12 would be to de-stroke to maybe 3.5l, ITBs, super-hot cams. Make it revv 12,000rpm and swap into Miata.

It sounds like something rubbing or a bearing in an accessory or similar, I don't think thats an internal bad things kind of sound.....hard to say from the video though. Agreed. Life, it sounded very much like a power steering pump low on fluid, but moving the wheels didn't change anything. Some pu...

2.54mm vs 2.5mm over ten columns is 0.4mm. Hardly noticeable. So the footprint may be wrong and possibly should be fixed in future revisions, but it hardly matters in real life.

instant RPM does not work reliably - I am rolling back to "slow" RPM, will have to investigate instant RPM implementation some idle PID games attached but I am a blind man in the dark here, PID tuning makes no sense to me :( Could you post a screenshot of your settings? Are you using Elec...

Fantomiaso wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:59 am

Oh, how hard is to be an idiot... Finaly, it works. Now I know, that if it is 301 marking on SMD resistor, double check it is not flipped 10E one...

In my extensive experience, being an idiot is one of the easiest things....

So this block and another one just like it, as well as the connectors hooking into them are apparently the reason why my sensors don't read so good. Bad Ground Dist Block.jpg These are in the passenger footwell on the '93 Miata (pretty sure '94 as well, maybe 90-92 too). It appears that this footwel...

One semi-mystery is solved. The screws holding the housing bottom to the top do seem to be M3.5 x 0.6. Because M3s just won't cut it and M4s are way too big.
I guess.

Ok, So I've got two LS engines lined up. One for my Trans Am swap, and one for my Impala swap; both are complete and ready to run with harness, ECM, and accessories (alternator, water pump, etc.). One LS is drive-by-wire and the other is drive-by-cable. My question... 1.) Does rusEFI support drive-...

Maybe I missed this part: Do you have a particular engine / vehicle in mind?

12V and 17A is 200W. That seems like a lot of power for a throttle body. I don't really have a means of comparison, but it really seems excessive. I would install maybe a 5A flying fuse in the next version. If it blows, you know it's the raw amps. If it doesn't blow, but the driver blows again, it's...

So, after this rant it occurred to me that Mazda just CAN'T be THAT stupid. So I decided to test my ground connections. Turns out my power grounds going to the ECU are not grounded at all. Near infinite resistance to ground. Something is fubared. This MAY explain why my stock ECU failed. It may have...

So, on to my Ground problems. It appears that, when the injectors are REALLY firing, my ECU ground is floating up by approx 0.3V or so. Since the sensors are essentially (more or less) externally grounded, this really messes with the readings from the sensors. The reading of my coolant temp sensor v...

Hmmm, should I just consider the board was zapped while it was on the bench, and it took this long for the ESD issue to produce a noticeable result? I'm a skeptic about that, but also it's possible. I'm mostly trying to make sure there isn't some kind of data here that could help make the design mo...

Hardware and reality. Two things we cannot trust :( But we probably do not have resources to deal with limping mode and automatic switch to limping mode :( In my particular case, I think it would have helped to set the MAP value to let's say 60 when it's out of reasonable range. It would have run t...

I was logging at the time it first happened. No trace of anything suspicious in that log. The NA6 Miata does have a weird sensor ground loop which seems to cause all kinds of noise. So I can't say for certain that we didn't have a signal above 5V on some sensors at some time. But I am under the impr...

So, I think I traced it to a faulty brainboard. The output from the opamp worked just fine, but after the voltage divider I got 0V, or close to it. It appears that this board just pulls the PA6 pin to low as soon as injectors and / or ignition start firing. It just started randomly. Weird. Replaced ...

One thing I forgot to mention: This happened once, driving. I limped back to my office, using un-tuned MAF. Then I replaced the MAP sensor. The engine fired up, I had signal for about 5 seconds or so and then the engine died. Interestingly it died RIGHT when I started a log. Now it dies every time I...