Hello hello from Texas

Your chance to introduce yourself and to ask your first question
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kb1gtt
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Re: Hello hello from Texas

Post by kb1gtt »

Sounds like you toasted a bunch of 5V stuff. But you don't know that yet. I suggest removing W23, then get 5V on W23. Once you have 5V on W23, then you can start connecting the rest of the 5V stuff.

In your pictures, it appears that U1001 and D1004 did not get enough heat. It appears they did not flow solder under those components. I also recall that L1001 and L1002 need a bunch of heat to get them to flow properly. These components are connected to large copper planes for thermal purposes, which means you have to hold your iron on them for a long time to heat up the copper. I usually get a decent solder blob on my iron and hold it right on the tab and let it sit until the solder flows underneath. Even after it flows, I give it something like 10 to 30 seconds to ensure that all of the solder underneath has flowed. This can take something like 5 minutes, it depends on how many watts your iron is. A large solder blob on the side of your iron will help transfer the heat to the tab, and PCB.

The 12V means that the regulator chip is not working properly, this happens when the FB pin does not received the proper signal to turn off the chip. This chip will connect the VBAT to 5V until the FB pin sees the proper voltage, then this regulator chip will turn off the VBAT connection, until the FB pin has dropped below a particular voltage. Then it again connects the VBAT, etc etc such that it keeps the output at 5V. However if you have a cold solder joint on the coil, the voltage does not make it back to the FB pin, so the chip provides 12V to the 5V with out turning off.

Also DMM measurements at P1002 aren't very useful. There is a bunch of higher frequency stuff happening at this point, which can bugger a DMM reading. This test point is really for a scope.
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Abricos
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Re: Hello hello from Texas

Post by Abricos »

pyro4826 wrote: ImageImage k
PCB laying on a towel is a bad idea
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric

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AndreyB
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Re: Hello hello from Texas

Post by AndreyB »

I hope it's not http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1008

I cannot contribute to troubleshooting really - waiting for @.

what is the voltage on regulator pins #2 and #4? One of them is supposed to be +5.
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AndreyB
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Re: Hello hello from Texas

Post by AndreyB »

How is it going? I am sure you have the wiring diagram but just in case https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazdaspeed_Miata_2005
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pyro4826
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Re: Hello hello from Texas

Post by pyro4826 »

Hello! Sorry it's been so long had a busy race season and some other personal stuff go on.

Tonight I got the engine all up and running! After a bit of head scratching why things weren't working right I changed a few ground points and changed pin outputs to get it firing on all 4. I think one of my ignition chips has bit the dust though due to me not being able to use a few pins for the coils.

I currently am running a MAP sensor on the engine but my kpa seems to be incorrect even with new sensors. My battery voltage is also oddly off by about .5v-1v constantly while being read on tunerstudio. Tomorrow I'm going to figure out the wideband o2 sensor setup to get that reading correctly.

I was having an odd issue that the coils and injectors would fire every time I reset the ecu. It is an intermittent thing but seems to be gone for right now. I do not have an IAC valve so it doesn't like idling too easily but it does take throttle quite well.

Video of it running and such I'll have tomorrow.

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