Hello from the West Coast!

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 8:54 pm

I understand Meth and Water injection are commonly connected to a WOT switch. I expect the outputs are typically a digital thing, not a table driven analog thing. However the FSIO can do either, if analog is needed.

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Wed Jun 15, 2016 4:55 am

Excellent news! I'll likely run the water injection a little more aggressively as I won't be changing pistons on this motor. Maybe a boost pressure vs water PWM % table?|

Anyway, heading to a new acquaintance's shop tomorrow to see about using a welder. Still need to do some fabricating, also have to do some suspension work otherwise this power isn't going anywhere. Going to look into getting a stock ECU (they're like $30) to stick the Frankenso into, but its a 32pin ECU. Will be opening up soon for internal dimensions...

Is this the moment to start a new thread?

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:16 pm

Internal dimensions look good. Last question for this thread, then I'll start a project thread.
Does rus-Efi have table switching? Or is it planned for the future? IE: a physical toggle switch to select which fuel/ignition/other table to use?

Thanks!

Post by **AndreyB** » Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:18 pm

theflyingdutchp wrote: Does rus-Efi have table switching? Or is it planned for the future? IE: a physical toggle switch to select which fuel/ignition/other table to use?

http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1021

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Sat Jun 18, 2016 6:10 pm

russian wrote:
theflyingdutchp wrote: Does rus-Efi have table switching? Or is it planned for the future? IE: a physical toggle switch to select which fuel/ignition/other table to use?
http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1021

Excellent as always, thanks for the info Russian!

I would love to help with the coding, but I don't think my skills are up to par quite yet. Taking some classes soon, hopefully that helps. Its all C & C++ correct?

Post by **AndreyB** » Sat Jun 18, 2016 6:17 pm

C with barely any C++

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:18 am

Gotcha, I'm waitlisted for a C++ class, so hopefully that & some online reading will get me going.

I know I said project thread soon, sorry sorry

. I want to get all my ducks in a row. Once I order parts then project thread.

New stumbling block. Frankenso is built around the 64pin DENSO but my ECU is 42pin. And I pretty much need plug-n-play functionality. Jumper harness is OK but I'd rather just swap ECUs.
Pretty sure this is my connector. (I'll check and edit the OEM connectors page if its correct.) Unfortunately (if that's the one) the pin spacing is not the same between the 64 & 42pin connectors.

I'm lightly considering have a custom PCB made - just installed some software to edit the schematic. I'll have to see how intuitive it is. Anybody have suggestions for a supplier?

If that doesn't work out, is Frankenstein still supported?

Post by **AndreyB** » Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:19 pm

theflyingdutchp wrote:If that doesn't work out, is Frankenstein still supported?

Frankenstein is absolutely still supported.

Smallest batch of Frankenso-ish PCBs would be ~$200 for 5 boards, let me know if you find a place to order smaller or cheaper 4 layer boards.

Maybe something like what I have on my Neon?

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Sun Jun 19, 2016 6:06 pm

russian wrote:
theflyingdutchp wrote:If that doesn't work out, is Frankenstein still supported?
Frankenstein is absolutely still supported.

Smallest batch of Frankenso-ish PCBs would be ~$200 for 5 boards, let me know if you find a place to order smaller or cheaper 4 layer boards.

Maybe something like what I have on my Neon?

Not sure exactly what is needed, but I found this site. Looks like they're coming out of HongKong, not sure if that matters for you. Or you could buy a 3D printer that does PCBs, would pay itself off eventually.... Not sure how many orders you are getting though.

What you have on the Neon looks cool too. Are those the OEM connectors in printed cases? Any pictures of how that all goes together?

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 1:02 am

Not to hijack the west coast thread, but yes, those are OEM connectors with printed shells. I seem to recall the OEM ECU was smashed apart, such that the connector remained. Then several wires were soldered on to these connector(s), and a shell was printed which protects the solder joints. That option is likely lower cost than trying to spin your own PCB. I'm all for seeing variants of Frankenso, but it is significant work and significant cost. If there is an expectation for multiple units with a different connector, then yes it would be worth while, but if it's only one or two engines, then it might be better to do like @russian has done with the printed shells.

Post by **AndreyB** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:24 am

kb1gtt wrote:those are OEM connectors with printed shells. I seem to recall the OEM ECU was smashed apart, such that the connector remained. Then several wires were soldered on to these connector(s)

pretty much yes.

actually there is a little board to make soldering easier - the connector goes into the little board, the wires go to the little boards, the shell halves have a slot for the boards.

See http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=696
See http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=696&start=60#p16049 top picture shows the little boards in the corver

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:13 am

kb1gtt,
Not a hijack at all. Thanks!

Ahh I see, the Neon connector is 180degrees from the PCB side to the connector side. Mine are 90degrees :/ I've got an idea that may work, and won't require me to get a custom PCB or little printed cases and circuit boards.

It seems that connector I linked above is correct for the 2nd gen Camry Alltrac 2.0L (3SFE) ECU. P/N:89661-32160. Probably the same connector as the other 3SFE Camrys, but I can't confirm that.

For the Frankenso, is the LCD screen a requirement? I assume its mostly a debugging tool?

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 9:46 am

You can also probably make a small interface PCB that adapts from the Frankenso connector to your connector.

LCD is not strictly required, however when you are at the track and you need to change a small setting, or you need to get some quick data with out having a laptop connected, it's really handy.

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:21 pm

I was thinking about cutting the pins that go to the pcb, they are quite long. Then flipping the connector upside down and attaching it to the top of the case with the two mounting holes. It'll be a little confusing to get the wires to the right pins but I think it'll work. There will be pictures of whatever ends up happening.

Order going out tonight

Post by **AndreyB** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:33 pm

i was shocked to see how easy it is to dissolver a connector from an oem pcb with a small probane torch, pcb gets soft as butter and all solder is liquid simultaniously.

Abricos with the VW has what you describe - his 68 pin connector is bolted to the board and there are wires. He has even drilled the pcb which is probably not perfect but works for him.

Abricos · Post by **Abricos** » Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:52 pm

If you drill holes don't use metal screws

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Tue Jun 21, 2016 12:15 am

Also if you drill the PCB, beware the inner copper layers. The inner layers are pretty much solid flooded with 5V and GND, so it's easy to short things accidentally.

theflyingdutchp · Post by **theflyingdutchp** » Tue Jun 21, 2016 5:35 am

russian wrote:i was shocked to see how easy it is to dissolver a connector from an oem pcb with a small probane torch, pcb gets soft as butter and all solder is liquid simultaniously.

I love an excuse to break out the torch! I'll try it out.

The plan is to drill holes through the upper case cover. I'll just have to remember to undo those before I remove the upper cover. Not considering drilling through the PCB, seems to be asking for trouble.

How up to date is the Frankenso BOM? I can't swing the full price for the assembled kit so I think its gonna be toaster oven reflow, might get one and start hacking/coding control with an arduino. Biggest hurdle yet, has me rethinking the project TBH.

Post by **AndreyB** » Tue Jun 21, 2016 12:17 pm

theflyingdutchp wrote:How up to date is the Frankenso BOM?

BOMs are nearly perfect.

rusefi.com

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