Hello hello from Texas
Hello hello from Texas
Hey everyone. I am working on a lotus 7 project and found out about the rusEFI. Sounds like a lot of fun to learn and help develop if possible.
I was trying to figure out which would be a better board to get for my project 7. The frankenstein or the frankenso.
The setup in the car is a 2005 mazdaspeed miata engine with a 2010 evo X turbo. I am wanting to run as few sensors and extra stuff that I can. Also, building as small of a wiring harness possible. No gauges or dash has been designed as of yet due to not having an EMS.
Any help/pointers would be greatly appreciated.
--Will
I was trying to figure out which would be a better board to get for my project 7. The frankenstein or the frankenso.
The setup in the car is a 2005 mazdaspeed miata engine with a 2010 evo X turbo. I am wanting to run as few sensors and extra stuff that I can. Also, building as small of a wiring harness possible. No gauges or dash has been designed as of yet due to not having an EMS.
Any help/pointers would be greatly appreciated.
--Will
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Welcome
Where in Texas?
Since you are asking than assembled Frankenso is the way to go. Good news is Miata is thr car to play with since lots of experience on this forum.
Where in Texas?
Since you are asking than assembled Frankenso is the way to go. Good news is Miata is thr car to play with since lots of experience on this forum.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
And the Mazdaspeed turbo engine is for all intents and purposes a 99-00 engine. No VVT to deal with. The cam/crank sensors work with Frankenso and we seem to have gotten a handle, or at least the start of one, on the NB Miata alternator control.
Summary: I don't see any pitfalls.
Are you planning on using an electronic boost control valve? We should be able to control that too.
Summary: I don't see any pitfalls.
Are you planning on using an electronic boost control valve? We should be able to control that too.
Re: Hello hello from Texas
I am in the Dallas area.
I have definitely seen a lot of focus on the miata front here on the forums as I read through.
That is true it really is just a 99 block with a turbo haha. I currently don't have an alternator for the engine other than a 95 alternator. I am not sure on the EBCV. I only have a few sensors from the engine when I got it. I have cam and crank sensors as well as the water and oil temp sensors and then two other sensors on the back of the intake manifold that I am not sure what they are for. I think one is an EGR solenoid.
I have definitely seen a lot of focus on the miata front here on the forums as I read through.
That is true it really is just a 99 block with a turbo haha. I currently don't have an alternator for the engine other than a 95 alternator. I am not sure on the EBCV. I only have a few sensors from the engine when I got it. I have cam and crank sensors as well as the water and oil temp sensors and then two other sensors on the back of the intake manifold that I am not sure what they are for. I think one is an EGR solenoid.
Re: Hello hello from Texas
95 alternator should fit without problem and is internally controlled, so you wouldn't even need that taken care of by the ECU.
In other words: Place your order while they are fresh....
In other words: Place your order while they are fresh....
Re: Hello hello from Texas
Other than the pulley is a tad different but that shouldn't be a problem. I only think it is a 95 alternator. Haven't checked the part number yet.
I think I shall do so then.
I think I shall do so then.
Re: Hello hello from Texas
In terms of needed I/O:
Sensors:
- Crank and Cam are the most important
- Manifold air pressure (MAP) is the best way to calculate fuel requirement (I'm using an external Chevy-style 3bar sensor)
- Using MAP means you can get rid of the MAF sensor
- CLT is important for warmup
- IAT (post intercooler) is important to properly calculate fuel requirements
- TPS is important for acceleration enrichment
Output
- Spark and Injectors are needed to get the engine running
- I like to also use the idle valve (IAC), but you could just set the throttle endstop mechanically for simplicity sake.
- Not sure if the Mazdaspeed engine has the VICS manifold. If it does you'll need one more output to control that.
- Fuel pump is controlled by ECU, but is often replaced with a simple switch in racecars
- Cooling fan(s) should also be controlled by ECU
If you're planning to ever run more than 12psi boost, I would also suggest swapping the Miata coilpacks for Chevy LS coils (the ones from trucks are the strongest). Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Gen-IV-LS2-LS3-LS4-LS7-Ignition-Coils-OEM-12573190-Round-Style-New-Set-of-8-/232119465229?hash=item360b65f50d
For that you need 4 ignition wires instead of the 2 for the stock wasted spark config.
I'd also suggest to replace the stock Miata returnless and fixed-pressure fuel system with a return-style manifold pressure referenced system. There is a way to hack the fuel pressure regulator from an earlier Miata onto the fuel rail of the '99-'05 fuel system instead of the damper.
I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff. But that should get you in the ballpark.
Sensors:
- Crank and Cam are the most important
- Manifold air pressure (MAP) is the best way to calculate fuel requirement (I'm using an external Chevy-style 3bar sensor)
- Using MAP means you can get rid of the MAF sensor
- CLT is important for warmup
- IAT (post intercooler) is important to properly calculate fuel requirements
- TPS is important for acceleration enrichment
Output
- Spark and Injectors are needed to get the engine running
- I like to also use the idle valve (IAC), but you could just set the throttle endstop mechanically for simplicity sake.
- Not sure if the Mazdaspeed engine has the VICS manifold. If it does you'll need one more output to control that.
- Fuel pump is controlled by ECU, but is often replaced with a simple switch in racecars
- Cooling fan(s) should also be controlled by ECU
If you're planning to ever run more than 12psi boost, I would also suggest swapping the Miata coilpacks for Chevy LS coils (the ones from trucks are the strongest). Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Gen-IV-LS2-LS3-LS4-LS7-Ignition-Coils-OEM-12573190-Round-Style-New-Set-of-8-/232119465229?hash=item360b65f50d
For that you need 4 ignition wires instead of the 2 for the stock wasted spark config.
I'd also suggest to replace the stock Miata returnless and fixed-pressure fuel system with a return-style manifold pressure referenced system. There is a way to hack the fuel pressure regulator from an earlier Miata onto the fuel rail of the '99-'05 fuel system instead of the damper.
I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff. But that should get you in the ballpark.
Re: Hello hello from Texas
Hello and welcome! I'm in the Dallas area also. Nice to see another Miata engine coming up, and the Lotus 7 project sounds like lots of fun.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Sounds like Dallas rusefi club beginning to metomiata wrote:I'm in the Dallas area also.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Yes welcome along, and pleasure to meet you.
Have you found the wiki yet? Just in case you haven't here's a link that might be of interest. http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board
Sounds like you are well on your way. I would suggest drawing out a schematic with all the bits and pieces on it. Pizza box cover or napkin should do the trick. It would simply allow you to make sure you have though of all the sensors and such that you need. Also it sounds like your engine is in the sweet spot for the Frankenso board. Did you engine come with a harness? If so the connector might plug into the Frankenso board. That would save a bunch of wiring.
Have you found the wiki yet? Just in case you haven't here's a link that might be of interest. http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board
Sounds like you are well on your way. I would suggest drawing out a schematic with all the bits and pieces on it. Pizza box cover or napkin should do the trick. It would simply allow you to make sure you have though of all the sensors and such that you need. Also it sounds like your engine is in the sweet spot for the Frankenso board. Did you engine come with a harness? If so the connector might plug into the Frankenso board. That would save a bunch of wiring.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Thanks for that very comprehensive list!! It is a massive help to get me on my way to having the thing running quicker than expected!stefanst wrote:In terms of needed I/O:
Sensors:
- Crank and Cam are the most important
- Manifold air pressure (MAP) is the best way to calculate fuel requirement (I'm using an external Chevy-style 3bar sensor)
- Using MAP means you can get rid of the MAF sensor
- CLT is important for warmup
- IAT (post intercooler) is important to properly calculate fuel requirements
- TPS is important for acceleration enrichment
Output
- Spark and Injectors are needed to get the engine running
- I like to also use the idle valve (IAC), but you could just set the throttle endstop mechanically for simplicity sake.
- Not sure if the Mazdaspeed engine has the VICS manifold. If it does you'll need one more output to control that.
- Fuel pump is controlled by ECU, but is often replaced with a simple switch in racecars
- Cooling fan(s) should also be controlled by ECU
If you're planning to ever run more than 12psi boost, I would also suggest swapping the Miata coilpacks for Chevy LS coils (the ones from trucks are the strongest). Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Gen-IV-LS2-LS3-LS4-LS7-Ignition-Coils-OEM-12573190-Round-Style-New-Set-of-8-/232119465229?hash=item360b65f50d
For that you need 4 ignition wires instead of the 2 for the stock wasted spark config.
I'd also suggest to replace the stock Miata returnless and fixed-pressure fuel system with a return-style manifold pressure referenced system. There is a way to hack the fuel pressure regulator from an earlier Miata onto the fuel rail of the '99-'05 fuel system instead of the damper.
I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff. But that should get you in the ballpark.
Re: Hello hello from Texas
It is a ton of fun by far. Here is a picture of it in its current state. Not super pretty right now but it is all just making sure it fits right before making it look nice.tomiata wrote:Hello and welcome! I'm in the Dallas area also. Nice to see another Miata engine coming up, and the Lotus 7 project sounds like lots of fun.
That would be awesome to have especially if I can get it to cleanly work for me I also want to try to get it to work on lotus esprit turbos.russian wrote:Sounds like Dallas rusefi club beginning to metomiata wrote:I'm in the Dallas area also.
Thank you for the kind words and very nice to meet you! That is a great suggestion to do such. The engine did not come with a harness or anything at all. It had a bad 4th bearing and my customer had another engine to swap into his miata already so instead of paying me in cash he gave me the motor.kb1gtt wrote:I would suggest drawing out a schematic with all the bits and pieces on it. Pizza box cover or napkin should do the trick. It would simply allow you to make sure you have though of all the sensors and such that you need.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
What's the current state of the harness? Do you have battery mounted? Do you have starter button wired up - can you crank the engine?
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
I have no harness made yet. I have a location for the battery, just above the passenger footwell. I have a simple starter panel ready to be wired into everything. The engine can be turned over by the starter if hooked up to power.russian wrote:What's the current state of the harness? Do you have battery mounted? Do you have starter button wired up - can you crank the engine?
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
You've asked some great questions about the Frankenso kit over email, let me start responding slowly.
Q701 - yes, the kit should contain two little MOSFETs, not just one Q1001 for the power supply. Will ship. On the other hand I wonder if it would just work without it?
D703 - yes, the kit should contain x13 not x12 BAS70-04FILM. Will ship. On the other hand I wonder if it would just work without it?
shottky diode D12-D23 these are flyback diodes which are only populated if a given channel is used for a solenoid like idle valve. I believe we still do not have an SMD part number for this, you have two 1N4007 throw-holes - that's what these are for. Need to add some note into that bag.
LEDs. The kit contains x15. How many have you installed and how many are you missing?
RV101 we just do not include it into the kid, the idea is to use a couple of fixed resistors instead. We can kind of start including it. Will ship.
To be continued...
Q701 - yes, the kit should contain two little MOSFETs, not just one Q1001 for the power supply. Will ship. On the other hand I wonder if it would just work without it?
D703 - yes, the kit should contain x13 not x12 BAS70-04FILM. Will ship. On the other hand I wonder if it would just work without it?
shottky diode D12-D23 these are flyback diodes which are only populated if a given channel is used for a solenoid like idle valve. I believe we still do not have an SMD part number for this, you have two 1N4007 throw-holes - that's what these are for. Need to add some note into that bag.
LEDs. The kit contains x15. How many have you installed and how many are you missing?
RV101 we just do not include it into the kid, the idea is to use a couple of fixed resistors instead. We can kind of start including it. Will ship.
To be continued...
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
If missing Q701 and D703, you only loose the FTDI chips LED indicators. It should still function. You just don't get the LED's blinking when bits are being pumped around. You do require Q1001.
I suggest not using D12-D23. Those are only for things like alternator control where there is a benefit of a slow control. Most solenoids will be just fine with out these diodes.
RV1001 is for the LCD contrast or brightness. The R99 1k is typically good, but we have found different LCD MFG's look for different resistances. You can see if your LCD works by shorting W101. There is a strong chance that will work. RV1001 is there because if it doesn't work, you can simply spin the POT to get the brightness as you desire. Once you know the resistance, I would suggest hard wiring this by removing RV1001 and installing a resistor in W101, as POT wipers tend to go bad over time.
If someone wanted to make a wiki page to function as a kind of how-to-assemble guide that would be handy for folks who solder this together. Right now I don't think that either @russian or @kb1gtt has ever populated this board by hand. So if someone wanted to write down some notes and make it into a wiki, I'm sure others would find it handy. It does seem we keep making the same suggestions to populate the power supply first, etc.
Sounds like someone was either drunk, or not drunk enough to get the correct parts in the kit I know "bender" the robot needs beer to walk straight, and can not operate when sober. Perhaps @russian the robot needs the same.
I suggest not using D12-D23. Those are only for things like alternator control where there is a benefit of a slow control. Most solenoids will be just fine with out these diodes.
RV1001 is for the LCD contrast or brightness. The R99 1k is typically good, but we have found different LCD MFG's look for different resistances. You can see if your LCD works by shorting W101. There is a strong chance that will work. RV1001 is there because if it doesn't work, you can simply spin the POT to get the brightness as you desire. Once you know the resistance, I would suggest hard wiring this by removing RV1001 and installing a resistor in W101, as POT wipers tend to go bad over time.
If someone wanted to make a wiki page to function as a kind of how-to-assemble guide that would be handy for folks who solder this together. Right now I don't think that either @russian or @kb1gtt has ever populated this board by hand. So if someone wanted to write down some notes and make it into a wiki, I'm sure others would find it handy. It does seem we keep making the same suggestions to populate the power supply first, etc.
Sounds like someone was either drunk, or not drunk enough to get the correct parts in the kit I know "bender" the robot needs beer to walk straight, and can not operate when sober. Perhaps @russian the robot needs the same.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Thank you so much for the input! I will check the components out closer on Monday afternoon when I have my soldering kit on me. I dont care about having blinking LEDs as long as I am able to verify that the right components are working otherwise.
I am currently working on setting up the STM32 board and getting it connected to the laptop and tuning software. I do think though that the Wiki needs some updating with the more current versions of the software for the "guide" to follow. There are some changes that are in the more recent versions that are different from the Wiki.
I would not mind making a how-to-assemble guide at all once I am able to get this one working right and true. I was planning on getting it working and then getting another one so that I can make it work for another project for my boss and I wouldn't mind doing a guide at the same time. I thoroughly enjoy doing the SMD soldering and testing as I go through it all. I can provide a crap ton of high quality pics to help as well. Some obligatory drinks will of course be in the background because I like Bender run on that sweet sweet CH3CH2OH
I am currently working on setting up the STM32 board and getting it connected to the laptop and tuning software. I do think though that the Wiki needs some updating with the more current versions of the software for the "guide" to follow. There are some changes that are in the more recent versions that are different from the Wiki.
I would not mind making a how-to-assemble guide at all once I am able to get this one working right and true. I was planning on getting it working and then getting another one so that I can make it work for another project for my boss and I wouldn't mind doing a guide at the same time. I thoroughly enjoy doing the SMD soldering and testing as I go through it all. I can provide a crap ton of high quality pics to help as well. Some obligatory drinks will of course be in the background because I like Bender run on that sweet sweet CH3CH2OH
Re: Hello hello from Texas
Wow you enjoy SMT assembly. I'm guessing it's kind of like those zen sand garden things. For me I have a fat head and staring down at the components for long periods of time causes my neck to yell at me.
It might help your 2nd assembly if you draft a wiki page, then try to follow it. I know I commonly find new things when I run through an assembly document like that.
Hmmm, I always though that Beer was made of Beryllium Erbium.
It might help your 2nd assembly if you draft a wiki page, then try to follow it. I know I commonly find new things when I run through an assembly document like that.
Hmmm, I always though that Beer was made of Beryllium Erbium.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Can you please create a wiki account? wiki and forum are completely unrelated things at the moment, separate authentication. Will give you Write permissionpyro4826 wrote:There are some changes that are in the more recent versions that are different from the Wiki.
I would not mind making a how-to-assemble guide at all once I am able to get this one working right and true.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
I created a wiki account. Also here are some pics of the board. I am getting an odd issue, the other day I tested the power supply I got correct voltage of 5v but now I'm getting 7.5v...russian wrote:Can you please create a wiki account? wiki and forum are completely unrelated things at the moment, separate authentication. Will give you Write permissionpyro4826 wrote:There are some changes that are in the more recent versions that are different from the Wiki.
I would not mind making a how-to-assemble guide at all once I am able to get this one working right and true.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Also, I am having issues with the stm32 when it worked fine yesterday. Today must just be a bad electronic day haha.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Cannot find your user on wiki, not sure if you need to activate it somehow.
I can try help with stm issues if you provide more details, for 7.5 volts on power supply we would need CEO help.
I can try help with stm issues if you provide more details, for 7.5 volts on power supply we would need CEO help.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
I just reupdated it on wiki. Double check now.russian wrote:Cannot find your user on wiki, not sure if you need to activate it somehow.
I can try help with stm issues if you provide more details, for 7.5 volts on power supply we would need CEO help.
I was getting connection yesterday with rustuner and tuner studio Ms and now I am not getting the blinking blue light like I previously had been.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
russian wrote:Cannot find your user on wiki, not sure if you need to activate it somehow.
I can try help with stm issues if you provide more details, for 7.5 volts on power supply we would need CEO help.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Please remove discovery from Frankenso red board, does it still power up?
Does ST Link utility connect? Can you reprogram the firmware?
Did you kill it with 7.5 volts or was it while not connected to Frankenso? Little details matter
Does ST Link utility connect? Can you reprogram the firmware?
Did you kill it with 7.5 volts or was it while not connected to Frankenso? Little details matter
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
russian wrote:Please remove discovery from Frankenso red board, does it still power up?
Does ST Link utility connect? Can you reprogram the firmware?
Did you kill it with 7.5 volts or was it while not connected to Frankenso? Little details matter
The 7.5v was with the stm board not on the frankenso board.
The st link isn't reprogramming it like it was previously. I followed the steps the same way. When I got the reset button nothing lights up. I can take a video of what I do if that would help.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
just granted wiki write permission
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
Looks like maybe dead d1. I may just buy a second board so I can test other projects as well.
Here is my setup for testing the power.
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Re: Hello hello from Texas
So when I clip the jp01 jumper that same test point goes to 12v instead of the 7.5v
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