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I may be wrong but I think....

C16 = engine rpm
A16 = atmospheric pressure from ecu (usdm ecus had a daughterboard with a pressure sensor)
A20 = torque control (during shifts the ecu drops timing to soften the shift)

The USDM tcus took atmospheric pressure into account when shifting and used different shift maps depending on the reading.

Sounds like we can start with just RPM to begin with. It would help to know how many pulses per revolution - one pulse, six pulses or else.

I'm confused. In the engine schematic, I see 2 wires that go between the ECU and TCU. However on the TCU schematic I see at least 3.

The TCU schematic notes being connected to ECU C16. However the ECU schematic shows C16 as connected dash Tach In, not to the TCU.

The TCU schematic notes being connected to ECU A16 and A20. Both of these as just wires going to the ECU. So not really helpful in determining what they are doing. Could be digital or analog signals.

The TCU schematic notes being connected to TPS / ECU B6, while the ECU schematic shows the TPS only being connected to ECU B6, not to the TPU.

So I agree it appears that ECU C16 is connected to a low side driver, and we'll need to figure out how generate the pulses to control the dash signal. Do you have a scope?

Board Recieved!

Started work tonight but it's tedious stuff.

It helps to do it one module at a time - finish&test the power supply first.

How will you connect this to the car?

My intention is too build a harness for the car so I avoid hacking into the existing harness and can switch back to the stock ecu if needed.
I've ordered solder paste as well. Hand soldering each component will take forever without it.

If anyone has some high resolution shots of an assembled 0.4 board I'd appreciate it if you'd post them here.
It would speed up the assembly process for me.

I found one of the front of the board and it's about 2.5mb but it isn't high enough resolution to read the wording on the components.

Frankenso wiki should be pointing at http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/ unless that's the folder you are already looking at.

Do we have anyone with an assembled board and something like Canon 1D?

russian wrote:Frankenso wiki should be pointing at http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/ unless that's the folder you are already looking at.

Do we have anyone with an assembled board and something like Canon 1D?

I did look through the wiki but actually found a better shot in the forums.

Macro shots with a Canon 1D would be fantastic.

I will try taking some shots with my older Canon.

russian wrote:I will try taking some shots with my older Canon.

Thank you so much. That would be great.
If you could break them up into quadrants or by what each section is responsible for it would serve me and be great for the wiki too.

I would have to wait either for day light (optimistic scenario) or summer time day light (realistic scenario) or my brother visits me with something fancy (pessimistic scenario, probably would not happen any day soon)

iso 400 8M under a 100W desk light you cannot read resistor values, a better photographer is needed.

russian wrote:I would have to wait either for day light (optimistic scenario) or summer time day light (realistic scenario) or my brother visits me with something fancy (pessimistic scenario, probably would not happen any day soon)

iso 400 8M under a 100W desk light you cannot read resistor values, a better photographer is needed.

Ah ok. No worries. I'll forge ahead when the solder paste arrives. It will probably take me a couple of weeks with all the other projects I have.

Actually http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/frankenso_1991_miata_f.jpg and http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/frankenso_1991_miata_b.jpg are almost perfectly readable 0805 resistors?

Yes! I can work with those. The first picture is just a little better than the second and I can read the resistors values easily.

Still off-topic, but wow - that was taken with a cell-phone. 16M camera in my Samsung s5. Only problem it does not support RAW file format mode and looks like no control over JPEG compression level.

Hey if you're willing to do it I can use them. It will speed up assembly for me by a lot.

Made some more progress over the weekend. Got some solder paste and it works pretty well.

Is there a way to allow other forum members to submit tickets or can specific topics be created for troubleshooting and submitting potential corrections for the current documentation? If manpower is needed i can help. I used to have a couple of websites with forums.

You would only need a sourceforge account to create a ticket @ https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/

For Frankenso issues we simply comment on http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=569

russian wrote:You would only need a sourceforge account to create a ticket @ https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/

Well thats embarrassingly easy. Thanks

Let's agree it's poor usability - will go say "Issue Tracker" on top instead of current "Tracker".

More ranges added to http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Component_Options

russian wrote:Let's agree it's poor usability - will go say "Issue Tracker" on top instead of current "Tracker".

I don't have a proper grasp of the nomenclature. In other words it's not you. It's me.

Alright. Need a little assistance.

I've got some diode issues.
First is where does D1 go? Went through the schematic and can't find it referenced.
Second issue. There was an extra diode in the bag containing the double schottkey diodes.
The diode appears to have D96E8 on it.

I've attached pics for reference.

D1 is D1001 from the power supply - I will go fix the kit labels file
http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Power_Supply

the 13th diode is D701 or smth like that - it's optional on the optional usb<>ttl part of the board. Second little mosfet goes into the same corner.

russian wrote:D1 is D1001 from the power supply - I will go fix the kit labels file
http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Power_Supply

the 13th diode is D701 or smth like that - it's optional on the optional usb<>ttl part of the board. Second little mosfet goes into the same corner.

Thanks!!!

I'm still a long way off but things just got a little easier down the line.

mazda connector next to stock Subaru svx ecu connector

Oh that's pretty sweet! And I happen to know this connector, and now I know where it is used you can buy these new btw.

See http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:OEM_connectors#76_pin