Hello from MA USA

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NBytevenom
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Hello from MA USA

Post by NBytevenom »

Hello everyone!
I'm currently a college student at UML in MA studying Electrical engineering. I have a 2000 Mazda Miata with a Garret turbo from a Nissan SR20. It's currently running a DIYAutotune DIYPNP V 1.5. I built it in my college dorm, but I've quickly reached the limits of it. I'm very curious as to how rusefi can help me both learn and increase the driveability of my Miata.
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AndreyB
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Re: Hello from MA USA

Post by AndreyB »

Hello and welcome!

What are your driveability issues with your current MS? I guess it would be more about tuning less about which ecu you run?
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stefanst
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Re: Hello from MA USA

Post by stefanst »

Welcome!

And check out the wiki. If you're familiar with Megasquirt already, you'll be pleased to hear that rusefi uses Tunerstudio as well, so you won't have to learn a new tuning-suite.
rusefi is Open Source, so, even if you're missing a feature and the main developer(s) don't have the time or desire to implement it, you can just do it yourself, assuming your programming skills are up to the task....
AFAIK there are no pre-manufactured boards available on the shelf as of this moment, so you either have to wait, or assemble your own- not sure if anybody has un-populated boards left over.

Of course you can just buy a brainboard- essentially the processor with some supporting hardware ($25) and play with that. You can hook it up to your tuning computer and play with it to see if you like it.

At the moment rusefi has all features needed to make a Miata drive, but it is not as full-featured as MS3 yet. This is mainly a software restraint. More developers would mean more features.

What features are you looking for?
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kb1gtt
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Re: Hello from MA USA

Post by kb1gtt »

Yes welcome along and good to hear from you.

This wiki page might be of interest. http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board
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NBytevenom
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Re: Hello from MA USA

Post by NBytevenom »

russian wrote:Hello and welcome!

What are your driveability issues with your current MS? I guess it would be more about tuning less about which ecu you run?
My DIYPNP just had a lot of small drive ability issues that are caused by the limited amount of adjustability. (i.e only linear injector battery dwell correction, the knock board was junk)

Can the Rusefi board be fit with a DB15 connector?

For my wideband, how could I go about grabbing 12v and ground from the ECU to power it? Then perhaps run it out of the case through a DB15?
Otherwise I can just grab 12v and ground right from my Miata. I've just understood that grounding the wideband to the ECU (same ground as ECU) produces the most accurate results.
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AndreyB
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Re: Hello from MA USA

Post by AndreyB »

NBytevenom wrote:Can the Rusefi board be fit with a DB15 connector?
The PCB does not have DB15 header footprint. With wires you can make anything happen :)

rusEfi has GND wires and it has main relay control which you can use to power your WBO via some sort of a relay.

Sorry for obvious answers but I am not sure what exactly is the question.
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kb1gtt
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Re: Hello from MA USA

Post by kb1gtt »

NBytevenom wrote:Can the Rusefi board be fit with a DB15 connector?
Yes with wires you can make it preform just as bad as MS ;)

The DB15 is not rated for the currents or voltages that engine control crams through the connectors. Keep in mind that OEM's spend thousands of dollars figuring out how to save pennies on any component in the car. If they could use a DB connector for anything in the car, they would. However those connectors are simply not capable of upholding a good connection with the vibration, temperatures, voltages and amps found in an automotive application. If you use an automotive grade connector you'll see a significant improvement in longevity and reliable performance.

I understand the attraction to simply swapping out the ECU, but I would highly recommend changing the connector to an automotive grade connector. Perhaps for testing purposes you could make a DB board which provides via's and allows you to solder a wire to a via, such that it makes a connection to the DB pin. Then you could get a salvage yard pig tail, and plug this adapter cable into the Frankenso automotive grade connector. Once you know you are happy with the performance of the Frankenso, or what ever rusEFI board you use, you could then remove the DB connector. A pigtail from a salvage yard doesn't cost that much.
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