(Bio)Diesel Powered

Your chance to introduce yourself and to ask your first question
User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Thu Jul 12, 2018 5:51 pm

Below 1 ohm on most meters is not accurate any how. You really need a mV test to know low resistance.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:31 pm

right, I'm not too worried about it..

just ran a carfax on the vin, 0 owners, but knows it was scrapped..
called GM to ask if they had record of it being in a crashtest study, no records on that..
either way, seems fairly solid

lack of initial pictures gave me little insight as to what is missing.. beyond throttle body, turbo, wiring, I discovered the starter isnt there, but the seller has more than one available, for not too much (like $50 shipped).. I knew I would need some stuff, just working on making the list

got sandwhich bags to organize bolts and whatnot that I take off the engine :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:36 pm

Any known sources of various striped tracer wire, of small lengths? ie blue with grey dashes
would be nice to simply get a bundle/set of 50 diff colors or similar of 10m lengths..

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Thu Jul 12, 2018 7:31 pm

Hmmmm
Attachments
81lIaojm+4L._SL1500_.jpg
81lIaojm+4L._SL1500_.jpg (203.95 KiB) Viewed 1697 times
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Fri Jul 13, 2018 12:51 am

If only..

but seriously, I only have yellow and green wire on hand, and it's solid 22 AWG, so not very flexible.. so I do need to get some more

I do have some fantastic ( and a lil expensive ) Belden wire. 2 pairs, indivdually shielded and a fairly solid ground.. I looked up the specs recently and it may actually be able to handle the injectors.. originally for Audio (though my purpose was CNC, for the steppers which require 4 wires, and can generate a bit of EMI)

Back to the flow bench, which is essentially the next thing I need to setup now that I have the components..
Many of the ones I see are just for petrol. I could consider because of high pressure and so forth that a more solid setup may be required.. and I am considering getting the TIG sooner than later (will need to make a new engine cradle for the smart) to build the flow bench (and learn to weld) out of steel. This is more for safety more than anything, to ensure when 30kpsi or however much goes through the system that I wont die sitting next to it... thoughts?

Beyond interfacing with the two valves and the pressure sensor...
I do need a fuel filter assembly, with priming pump(?) (and water sensor?) along with hoses and whatnot
and a gas can resevoir
I may need a lift pump (to move the fuel through the filter) but it seems the main purpose of it is to get fuel from the tank in the rear to the engine up front.. I've read about how sometimes these pumps can inhibit flow to the main pressure pump, and engines like the new cummins R2.8 actually state to NOT use a lift pump at all - they mention their pressure pump has one built in, but I actually wonder if that is the case or merely that it has enough vacuum pressure to be able to suck fuel from tank through filter.
and a small reservoir/tank
and fuel

There's a few other solenoids that are driven on the engine, but I think they are either on or off. One example would be the oil spray to under the pistons to cool them.. they may be as simple to get going as a relay(mechanical or solid state is beyond the point)

I should really make a note of what all is needed..

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Fri Jul 13, 2018 1:20 am

You can check Digi key for a multi conductor jacketed cable. Pull off the outer jacket and you have rainbow colored wires. I know anixter will commomily sell by the foot, which can save money if you don't need an entire spool.

About fuel rail pressure, if you're concerned it will cut you, you can add a fairly thin splash guard. I recall ruptures and cracks typically don't focus the stream well enough to cut metal. Also keep in mind that as flow from a rupture increases the pressure drops. So you need a very specific sized crack to cut things. Of course humans require much lower pressures to cut, a splash guard would protect the human. I know it takes a fair effort to focus water Jets to cut things.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Fri Jul 13, 2018 1:54 am

I think I would be more concerned with stuff moving..

wood could likely work just fine.. and I have that stuff on hand..

oh, and I have some polycarbonate blast shields from my chemistry adventures

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:27 pm

Spent some time reviewing the code provided for initializing.. but I think it would have been faster knowing now that the "Developer Studio" for the MC33816 will generate sample code when you compile the code/registers.. fairly basic of a program that I made, mostly trying to figure out the SPI, and, unfortunately, using the KL25Z as the host for now..

But I got the code to run in the sense that when there was issues (and there were a few) the Vboost was just battery voltage.. but finally after getting things to work it went up to the 65v..

So now I am able to to program over an application the code ram (needs to be done every power boot) and set it to run..

I could look at the actual microcode, but getting the flowbench ready is next steps.


Oh, also I removed near every connector, verified with the service manual of colors and what not, and individually bagged with a labelmaker label inside.. all in a small 6qt tote 'shoebox'

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Sat Jul 14, 2018 1:42 am

Does the regol allow longish decoded spi captures? If not you may want to consider getting one of those cheap logic analyzers. They can record until your HDD is full. That might be a handy feature in the near future. As well the slow boat from China might cause undesireable delays. You might want it on order now such that it's here when you want it.

About frame support, isn't that motor around 3kw? I believe many motor cycles at more than 3kw. You can eye ball your frame sizing by eye balling a motor cycle frame. Aka you don't need much.

Hmm I see that the multi conductor cables have gone stupid price. Makes me wonder if it would be worth while to make a machine that makes wire out of pipes. Do you know the awg or mm2 that the connectors can accept?

Have you seen the multiplaz?
https://www.multiplaz.com/video
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:43 am

This Rigol requires the start of chip select in the view.. That was an issue when Mode B was used, but since some reworking with the spi code and using an auto select, it has actually resulted back to Mode A, with a separate pulse for every word - this means that I can decode a very long stream of words. I was using the feature to look at the start vs end of transmission to verify the last word was as expected from the code_ram.. I haven't ventured in deep enough if the Rigol can actually write the stream of hex to the usb drive or not - I've mostly been verifying. I didn't have the 3.3v connection from the KL25Z earlier today, and basically noticed some terrible stability with the MISO voltage on long xfers, of which anytime the pulse dropped below 50% expected voltage it wouldn't register as it should and would actually break up the frame causing issues, resulting in those xAAA8 checkbits to be xAAAA upon starting a new stream.. was fairly annoying but it stood out fairly easily..

purple = MISO
light blue = VccIO - which was floating off something internal

.. 3kw? for which? the LH7 that I am working with? more around 100kw.. if you mean the smart fourtwo? 50kw

I have specs for the actual connector - and if I am reading the size right, I can see 0.5 & 0.75 as size for most of everything, assuming mm == 20 or 18 AWG as a best guess.
injectors have a size of 1.5.. so closer to 15 AWG .. the belden wire I have is 22 AWG (7x30 strands) - but the injectors wont be constantly on, so I was thinking it really wouldn't generate much heat.. but it is 5x as resistant per foot and if I can get proper spec'd wires to make it work, I have the info needed..

I was thinking about adding a plasma cutter to the welder bundle.. there's a limit to a metal blade on a jigsaw or reciprocating.. could put a metal blade on the circular saw too..
Attachments
DS1Z_QuickPrint5.png
DS1Z_QuickPrint5.png (49.29 KiB) Viewed 1664 times

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:38 am

Good progress.. Got the fuel system out

hardest part, and I now know better, was to push out the sprocket, which is looped through the timing chain.. and on this engine that is on the clutch/drive side to help reduce noise.. after wedging the pump out, a quick wack or two on the spindle with a hammer pushed the sprocket off the rest of the way..

there's also two foam inserts that go around the rail and the the injectors to help minimize noise..

I pulled the injectors out by wrapping wire and shipping straps (both seemed to work) around the bottom, maybe around twice, and then just pulled. The official tool looks like a "C" that fits around the bottom like my cable did, and attaches to a slide hammer.. I kinda like mine better

with only one or two pulls all 4 came out connected together, this was part of the plan because the service manual states that the fuel feed tubes to the injectors are not reusable, not sure reasons there but okay, it worked alright..

the non-reusable copper washers all came out with the injectors, which is nice that I wont have to fish for them..

I have to figure a way to drive this pump without the sprocket (maybe pulley/belt based) since it's sort of still inside the timing cover
Attachments
DSC_4954.jpg
DSC_4954.jpg (264.67 KiB) Viewed 1660 times

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:55 am

and I thought of how to drive the pump...

put the sprocket nut on it, and drive that (with a hand drill)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:06 am

and sort of making a mental note..
I would likely want to setup a line with a filter.. these modern injectors dont like any particles in the mix and would prefer to be on the safe side, so need to scout out what all is out there

I'll attempt to make the flowbench jig out of 2x's that I have on hand.. tomorrow.

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:01 am

Wow vccio is over loaded. That's a bummer.

Under stood 100 to 200 kw not 5 kw. I think you can still eyeball your frame from a motorcycle but you'll need to look at larger bikes.

About wire size, I would suggest going as large as possible. So 18 awg. Thermally you can go with a much smaller wire. However keep in mind your capacitive power supply is driving an inductive load via resistive devices. This topology is commonly called a tank circuit. A tank circuit can cause your 65 v to turn into 1kv internal to the injector. Aka smoke comes out. A good way to avoid tank circuit issues is to keep the impeadance of the wires low. Aka twisted pair largish guage wires and good quality contentions.
http://wb0nni.dakotamade.com/rfout.html
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:56 am

Got the flow bench mostly built..

missing fuel inlet (hopefully through a filter with a hand primer built in)
missing wiring (and subsequent interfacing to the sensors/valves)
missing connection to the socket to drive the pump via hand drill

I am going to be using amber glass bottles, because they take up less space than a graduated cylinder (and I have many available). I will weigh the results (0.01g readout, via RS232) for the comparisons/measurements and what not.

fairly stable.. just scrap 2x4s and 3/8" OSB with some long screws.. not really sure how they are normally built, but this'll'd'r
Attachments
DSC_4956.jpg
DSC_4956.jpg (267.84 KiB) Viewed 1639 times
DSC_4958.jpg
DSC_4958.jpg (327.53 KiB) Viewed 1639 times
DSC_4959.jpg
DSC_4959.jpg (319.42 KiB) Viewed 1639 times
DSC_4960.jpg
DSC_4960.jpg (286.69 KiB) Viewed 1639 times
DSC_4961.jpg
DSC_4961.jpg (299.63 KiB) Viewed 1639 times

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Sun Jul 15, 2018 12:53 pm

Those are some fancy screws. I thought prototypes were supposed to be made of duct tape and bubble gum. It's a very nice flow bench.

About wire, this might be a decent price. Can be purchased by the foot.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Per-ft-Alpha-W ... itleDesc=0

Do you know the spray pattern? You might want to try with out the bottles first to prevent damage to the bottles. After all where would you find another bottle :) Perhaps it should be a brown bottle in a paper bag. That bag would create some extra protection if the glass ends up breaking :)

Is that an Allen on the end of the pump? Could you chuck up a piece of an Allen wrench in the drill and use that to direct drive the pump? Or perhaps use some adapters and chuck up a socket, then drive the bolt head directly. From what I've seen, these pumps appear to be a spring loaded plunger. A cam will push the plunger up, and the spring keeps you at a constant-ish pressure. Once you get over the initial plunger push, the drill load should be decrease allot.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:20 pm

The screws are actually for exterior use, possibly for decks. I orig got them for connecting 2" rigid exterior insulation to sheathing. the head is the square-2.. I had these on hand

what I actually bought was nuts..

the end of the pump has the sprocket nut screwed on, and I have the socket resting on the bottom foot board.. so I will use a series of adapters to connect it up to the hand drill, which I want mounted a certain way

I think the spray pattern is 6 holes? I couldn't find much info on the injectors before receiving the engine..

I believe these amber bottles are borrosilicate which is more resistant than soda-lime glass to pressure/heat fluctuations (and acids/bases). If these dont work I'll switch to some polypropylene based things.

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:20 pm

Fuel Filter + Assembly (including hand primer pump, Cummins/Fleetguard) ordered.. may take a week
I saw one that I liked and had to hunt down the part number, got a brand new item for fairly inexpensive.. not sure what micron the filter is, I was really just wanting the head since it seemed 100x better than all other heads+primers (it's provided with their R2.8 crate engine)

that Malaysia order from NXP was actually a free sample of the 33810.. took a while to get here due to customs and whatnot

I will likely use clamps and whatnot to secure the hand drill to the table.. I am thinking about getting a mechanical relay for the AC to power that via the uC to ensure I don't build up pressure when not wanting to

The rail pressure regulator solenoid pulls 3A@12V (4ohm).. appears to activate with no pressure at 5v (audible click)
The pump pressure regulator solenoid is 0.5ohm, so I would think 24A@12V which seems a little crazy for the tiny thing, I may need a closer look, but I havent applied voltage to it yet..

I tried to scope the rail pressure sensor, but basically got no output when the 5v was applied.. possibly signifying 0psi.. I need(want) the filter, and a gallon of biodiesel (I dont want to use dino-diesel at all, even for testing...) and some fuel lines..

also got a crimper for the weatherproof connectors, and an extractor set.. will of course need new terminals and wires..
edit: seems the connectors are Sumitomo brand, and terminals + weatherproofing seem readily available..

May be 'on hold' for a moment while I wait for some of this to arrive..

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:46 pm

Hmmm, perhaps that's not 24A continuous. Could it need a PWM singal to limit the long term amps?
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:10 pm

I believe both solenoids use PWM to keep the valves open a certain degree.. not just open/closed

That higher connector (pump regulator solenoid) has 20 AWG (0.75mm) vs 22 AWG (0.5mm) for the 4ohm rail pressure regulator solenoid, so it clearly is designed to take more energy.

I think I am going to remove the remaining connectors and label them (only exhaust related ones remain.. I think) so I can get a count (I could do this from the datasheets, will double check with them as well) of which size terminals+weatherproofing for crimping new wires on

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Mon Jul 16, 2018 11:13 pm

Got most of all the remaining connectors.. quite a few.. around 30 including individual injectors and glow plugs

Label Everything - And Make Sure You Can Read It
Attachments
DSC_4965.jpg
DSC_4965.jpg (324.04 KiB) Viewed 1583 times

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:25 pm

After some thought on the wires.. I'm actually liking the marker idea w/ white wire... to a degree.

The thought is to use color coded identification bands on ea wire at both ends/terminals.

I dont think people really care tracing a wire half way through a harness that is bundled up anyways, though it may be faster to repair a short where you find it vs unspooling the entire thing.

I have always been a fan of [P/E]TFE for the chemical resistance. Should fair very well in an engine, especially with added heat as it performs near 250C (150C according to one datasheet) whereas PVC only works slightly above 100 C. Oh, but you can't write on it so the snap-on color bands would be needed, or use of the label maker.. Also.. it is typically White in the "natural" sense, and I think it would look "pro" (for lack of a better term, and is sort of a running bicycle joke about how white clothing/bartape gets dirty - but looks great) and have nice contrast against a fairly black engine and should look clean (so long as it is clean!). Not sure "showing off" the wiring is really something - but wiring it all myself, and knowing every single sensor - is something to be proud of, I think.

I got a quick tally of all of the colors.. I actually kinda goofed because I wanted to track primary vs secondary, so if it was WH/RD I may want to use WH/RD/WH snap IDs, and thus the amount is slightly varried, but x4 of the final count should give plenty of headway (for both ends of the terminal, the count is just for one end)
Dashed:
WH: 11
BK: 14
BU: 16
BN: 11
GN: 9
YE: 10
VT: 10
RD: 5
GY: 14

Solid Color (x3? ie, GN/GN/GN to have the same number of markers to be even with the others wires in the connector/harness.. then x2 for both ends?)
BK: 1
BU: 5
BN: 3
GN: 3
YE: 2
GY: 1

Possible total minimum count, of, say, BU, would be 94..
Looking at TE's STD03W-0 on Mouser, 1 marker: $0.10, 100 markers: $3.80
This is actually fairly inexpensive (max out 100 of ea 9 colors, though different sizes a rough estimate would be like $40 for all of them) and relatively simple, and should look.. pro.
white ETFE wire (TE) , 20 AWG (seemingly closest to the 0.5 number that is used often, will verify actual wires but not much left on them), 100ft: $18.50
Looks like Mouser doesn't have a lot of 18 AWG (=0.75), and would say 16 AWG is also needed (=1.5)
Digikey has other brands and whatnot (Mouser has Belden) of something like $64 per 100ft of 18AWG (of TFE type, and white)

Temporarily will likely solder the white to the existing pigtails, but I need to count out and hunt down new terminals and weather sealers - I have a few leads but I need a full count and of various sizes.

Also, the question of how much extra wire to have on there for testing and whatnot, before bundling a whole harness.. I don't have the donor car yet (the right one hasn't quite popped up) and sort of clueless as to where the stock ECU is mounted for any measurements of how far away the engine/sensors are..

small edit: found location of stock ECU vs engine, and fairly close, prob within a meter/yard of any sensor, so maybe 2m for everything would be safe to reuse the current location..

second edit: did a quick count of number of wires based on the datasheets I had opened, likely incorrect but gives some idea
0.5: 28
0.75: 10 (solenoids?)
1.5: 8 (fuel injectors)
2.5: 4 (glow plugs)

28 * 6 ft = 168 ft, so 2 100ft rolls of 20 AWG..

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:48 pm

If you are looking for ascetic wiring...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroluminescent_wire

Would be cool to see your injectors working. Is that hot, yup, it's bright so it's hot....

For temporary wiring or really any wiring which a wire nut could suffice, I really like the Wago 221's.
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-221 ... words=wago

About rainbow wire, perhaps you could get a harness from a salvage yard, then remove the conductors. That should have an acceptable temperature rating.

Most places where I've worked only stock a couple colors of wire, then we use a label maker which prints onto shrink tube.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:36 am

I read EL wire gives +2HP, but no peer reviewed scientific journals have published this fact, yet..

The idea of using the label maker is there, my Epson LW-400 is compatible with LK-4WBA5 heat shrink tube amongst others.. the aesthetic of all B/W would be interesting, but reading "BU/BK" is only half confusing (because I have to reference it as such in the service manual anyways) - sure, specifying what the actual connection is would be a nice reference, but may get fairly long text, and looking up the same wire may get.. cluttered? I see the aesthetics dropping when a large amount of text is there..

I could get a complete wiring harness for this engine (there are issues trying to find some parts because it's so new) but not sure that is the direction I want to take this. It would certainly speed things up - but I'm not stuck because of wiring right now (fuel filter and such)

I need to look into what the frankenso bundle gives, I am sorta behind on that.. are the connectors weather proofed? (the 58-wire pigtail would result in a somewhat "hack" look from how I am talking about clean wiring, but the connector housing itself would be useful)
Looks like it takes up the entire ECU box, so the injector driver - hell, even as the evaluation board - would need it's own box..

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:44 am

Only +2HP you say, didn't you see the Corvette engine block on the Wikipedia page? Surely you must get more than +2HP if it's used on a Corvette.

At work we use a destination with wire number format. So labels look something like the below example.

PLC I1 4050 --------------------- 4050 CR1 A+

That would be for a PLC input 1, connected to a Control Relay terminal marked A+. Especially after shrunk down that text is quite small, and the labels are reasonably short. Typically they are about 3/8 inch long. The wire numbers are generated based on the location in the schematic. For example, the 4 means it's on sheet 4, the 05 is a locator we have on the side of the schematic border, so you go down to location 05, then the last 0 means it's the first wire you see when reading left to right. For example, it's common you might have A- on that same spot in the schematic. So that would have wire number 04051, as it's the second wire when reading from left to right.

On a side note, I would really like to find a shop or a machine which would cut the wire to length, print and install the shrink labels on each end. If you happen to know of such a machine, or shop I'd be all ears. I can also consider cold stamp labeling the wires. I can't use hot stamp for most things, as that weakens the insulation and at times I have to keep the full ratings of the insulation. As well our wire at work is typically TPFE coated, so printing typically doesn't work. This leaves me with cold stamp or shrink tube.

Frankenso / Miata connector is NOT weather proof. The Miata mounts this in the dash, so it does not need weather proofing. We have had a tendency to make connector boards like the below.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1303&p=28783

In the below link one person who used Prometheus also use a breakout board and the end result looks nice.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1215&start=68

For reference, this fellow 3D printing a case.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1282&p=28683
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:14 pm

Neat, thanks for the links, I have yet to really search the forums for more than diesel related topics..

the service manual was somewhat interactive/link driven via some javascript & svg.. saving it to disk was more manual, required saving as PDF and losing the linkability - but each wire has a circuit number w/ it.. that could be an answer for ID while keeping it all clean

I have a few C.H.I.P.s, one runs my irc screen, the other email, and I have another floating around doing some chemistry (not really) things - they no longer provide this first version and are pushing their 'pro' model which is direct solderable (edit: they folded, will be hard to get anything)... but on the first version they got the pin names to be printed onto the header receptacle! so no need to look up some website/datasheet for pin numbers/whatnot - I havent really seen it done elsewhere as much (typically printed on PCB if anywhere)

I'll figure out the case for the injection driver board at some point.. the orig ECU had the glowplug (4.5v according to info I have - and obviously a bit of current - 2.5mm/14AWG) in the same harness bundle/pin grouping as the injector driver - may be worth trying to create dual+ purpose case - though not really necessary (+required solenoids for the system, having a complete "fuel brick" would make sense at some point).. also the orig ecu, and I suspect most new ones, have multiple bundle outputs which connect at the 'top' of the case versus one side like seemingly all older style are.. just so long as you can plug something in that's all that matters.. The ECU of the donor car is located behind the passenger seat, more or less on the C-Pillar.
Attachments
sensors.jpg
sensors.jpg (300.79 KiB) Viewed 1533 times
DSC_4968.jpg
DSC_4968.jpg (356.87 KiB) Viewed 1533 times

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Wed Jul 18, 2018 10:32 pm

checked the schematic for the rail pressure sensor (vs the drawing/whichever of the connector) and it stated "5V4".. attempted to get a reading from it by increasing the voltage by 0.4V (variable DC PSU, up to I think 30V and 5A?) but no reading on the scope on either two of the signal outputs.. still likely stating it is at 0 psi.. worth a test though

5V2 (assuming that is for 5.2V and not a second 5V line, ie multiple outputs w/ different amperages capable) is for:
Crankshaft position sensor
Intake manifold pressure and air temperature sensor
Throttle Body (I need to purchase this, available new from rockauto)

(5V3 and 5V4 are listed for the Accelerator Pedal, dunno what donor car is setup as just yet, that's another bag of beans)

Doesn't look like the fuel filter, nor the starter, has shipped yet...

edit: starter shipped
I think the diff 5Vx are simply different supply lines, as I never found a 5V/5V0.. and having two diff power lines to the accel pedal is redundancy in it's finest..
edit2: fuel filter shipped
Last edited by Noxz on Thu Jul 19, 2018 1:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
kb1gtt
contributor
contributor
Posts: 3408
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:42 am
Location: ME of USA
Contact:

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by kb1gtt » Thu Jul 19, 2018 1:34 am

Are you able to generate a pressure? AKA you 0 PSI might be registering as 0V. As well it looks like the purge senor needs a pull down resistor. Your pressure sensor may need the same. Other sensors seem to need a pull up resistor.

Is this engine in anything which you can take on a test drive? AKA you could measure 5V if you have a functional system. I do not expect 5V2 to be 5.2V. I would guess it's more like 5V number 2, or perhaps something completely different.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy :)

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Thu Jul 19, 2018 2:00 am

I am waiting on the fuel filter (finally shipped) before I try to generate any pressure - I really dont want to put possibly dirty fuel through the injectors. I have hand cranked with the socket wrench a few times - more with the feed line off the rail of which I got a few spurts - but even when on no amount registered on the scope with the basic test, but I dont have any fuel on hand to push through just yet (a friend w/ a diesel is bringing me some soon enough)

I know of one guy around, a bit more than a hop skip & a jump, that has one but has said he is always busy (I was waiting on rough engine dimensions from him for a week). Once I get "running" I want to sync up with him to scope his injectors and whatnot - might learn a thing.. or two.

I don't suspect that it's 5.4V anymore.

Looking at the schem for the rail pressure sensor, looks like pull up is used (and "5V" is listed)...
Attachments
fuelsys.jpg
fuelsys.jpg (296.2 KiB) Viewed 1515 times

Noxz
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:40 am
Soldering skill: yes
Coding skill?: yes

Re: (Bio)Diesel Powered

Post by Noxz » Thu Jul 19, 2018 2:03 am

Oh, also looking into the microcode more..

the given example makes it so both "fuel pumps" cannot be on at the same time - would be a nice first step of learning/modifying the code to get them both to work at once..

but what to do with the single feedback between them? possibly tie it in with the rail pressure somehow, where if it goes over the threshold, immediately turn on the rail bypass solenoid (and maybe the fuel pump one as well...)

Post Reply