rusefi.com

After scrapping my NB1, I picked up a very clean NB2!

This NB2 has definitely taken a different route than my NB1. I picked up FM VMaxxs and FM sway bars and have been autocrossing the car.
I'm looking to throw a GT2554R back in once I'm off active duty.

Now the "break in" period of me keeping the car stock has ended, so I've decided to pick up another RusEFI.
My plan is to order the Rusefi bundle, and build a patch harness between the NB1 connector on-board and the stock ECU connectors.
This will give me a little bit more room in the very crappy spot that is the NB ECU location.

My questions thus far are:
Are there any major hardware changes forseen between now and december?
Was there a discrepancy in early units that made flashing them difficult/unreliable? I remember sometimes my unit just wouldn't listen to flashing.
Is the CJ125 board for sale? I've been looking into that, or using an AEM Wideband controller unit again.
CAN is a thing on the Rusefi right? I saw a few threads mentioning its functionality and its in TS. I should use PB6 and PB12 for the HIGH/LOW connections right?
EBC should be on a high-side driver and use a FSIO table, correct? PE11 is used in the case-study, and in the official pinout, that is listed for the screen. I could use something else, like PE12 then?
Does NB tacho work?
What was the issue with being able to access the log-SD card through USB again?
NB2 base-map available?

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 21, 2018 10:04 pm

Are there any major hardware changes forseen between now and december?

I'm not planning any changes any time soon. I think the only thing that has known issues is the knock chip. That chip has a problem with getting the crystal to oscillate. I don't think that has been fully resolved, either that or it has been resolved and that's why folks aren't complaining about it. Other than that, I believe it's a fully operational death star.

CAN is a thing on the Rusefi right?

Some rough can code exists. I don't think it does very much at the moment. However if there is a need, perhaps it could bump up in priority. Right now I don't think anyone has any real uses for it. I think the closest use we have for it was to control an OEM gauge cluster.

The rest of your questions would be better answered by someone else, as I don't know the answers to those questions.

CAN is a thing on the Rusefi right?

Some rough can code exists. I don't think it does very much at the moment. However if there is a need, perhaps it could bump up in priority. Right now I don't think anyone has any real uses for it. I think the closest use we have for it was to control an OEM gauge cluster.

The rest of your questions would be better answered by someone else, as I don't know the answers to those questions.
[/quote]

I was going to use the CAN feature of an X series AEM wideband. Figured if the Rusefi has it, might as well.

Some pics

EBC? what is EBC?

rusEfi has CAN hardware but very little CAN firmware. CJ125 is kind of beta and the is no official board for sale - so external wideband is still suggested.

My own NB2 thread https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1095 is now stickly

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 22, 2018 3:36 pm

EBC? what is EBC?

External boost controller? I do not have one so I cannot elaborate Depends on what signal yours need and what kind of control you need.

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 22, 2018 3:41 pm

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 22, 2018 3:36 pm

EBC? what is EBC?

External boost controller? I do not have one so I cannot elaborate Depends on what signal yours need and what kind of control you need.

Electric boost controller, solenoid, I believe PWM driven.

Also, is it possible to order the full rusefi with no screen? Or are all those units pre-made with it?

I think on Tindie, its more expensive to order everything separately.

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 23, 2018 3:20 am

Also, is it possible to order the full rusefi with no screen? Or are all those units pre-made with it?

I think on Tindie, its more expensive to order everything separately.

Just adjusted https://www.tindie.com/products/russian/frankenso-fully-assembled-board/ now separately price matches full bundle so you can order without the screen.

Boost control should just be a normal low-side driver like an injector, relay, etc, plus appropriate software (which doesn't exist but I've thought about implementing for my car).

CAN hardware is fully present and functional. I'm close to building a screen that lets you change some parameters on the fly, view state, etc, so there will be more support and flexibility at some point. As soon as we have a reason to do more with it, it'll happen.

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 24, 2018 9:52 pm

Boost control should just be a normal low-side driver like an injector, relay, etc, plus appropriate software (which doesn't exist but I've thought about implementing for my car).

CAN hardware is fully present and functional. I'm close to building a screen that lets you change some parameters on the fly, view state, etc, so there will be more support and flexibility at some point. As soon as we have a reason to do more with it, it'll happen.

I thought one of the case studies on FSIO was on EBC! I guess a more dedicated screen on it would be more user friendly.

Adding a one wire oil pressure sensor in (stock 1.6 Miata unit). I believe that works using a voltage divider in the ECU. Is there something in the Rusefi I could use for that? Or I could just not be lazy and use a 0-5V transducer with a thread adapter.

Also, my current shopping list would be then the Assembled RusEFI, patch harness materials for NB2 and then.. HC06 (slave?) bluetooth module. I got a tablet that I plan to use to tune/monitor. I believe there's a spot on the RusEFI board last I saw allocated for a bluetooth module with the accompanying pins available.

Also thank you very much Russian for changing the pricing!

I'm available at any time to take up any sort of developmental help that might be required, please PM me with anything.

LOL and on that note,

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:52 am

I'm available at any time to take up any sort of developmental help that might be required, please PM me with anything.

how about https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/416?

russian wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:53 pm

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:52 am

I'm available at any time to take up any sort of developmental help that might be required, please PM me with anything.

how about https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/416?

Okey doke!

Also, are the STM32 boards sold with the Tindie RusEFIs sold with the RusEFI specific brain boards?

Ordered the Rusefi today! This will hopefully give me a bit better way of playing with my code. Looking forward to receiving it!

If you need it, I think I still have one of the patch boards for the NB2 connector. Makes wiring a little easier than just soldering directly to the connector, especially since NB2 connectors are a bit tighter than earlier models.

stefanst wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 15, 2018 1:27 pm

If you need it, I think I still have one of the patch boards for the NB2 connector. Makes wiring a little easier than just soldering directly to the connector, especially since NB2 connectors are a bit tighter than earlier models.

Thank you, but I actually got one as well with my order.

Got the unit in today. However there seems to be an issue. I can't seem to use any ports to connect the RusEFI to TS/Console.

I took the board out and connected the MicroUSB (console) cable with the MiniUSB (prog) and I had no issues connecting.

With the board receiving +5V from an external PS:
The MiniUSB conncted to the board, no TS connection.
the "TIL" port, no TS connection.
the port next to P52/P51 on the right hand side of the board, still no TS connection.

What am I doing wrong?

I get a STM Virtual com port in device manager. All drivers have been installed. The board has firmware on it.

UPDATE

Powering from VDD didn't seem to be the right thing to do. I powered 5V to the 5V pin, and now I can connect over a USB connection in TS. Weird?

have you tried some way to power (miniusb or +5v) and microUSB for communication?

This reminds me of https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1418

russian wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 23, 2018 11:54 pm

have you tried some way to power (miniusb or +5v) and microUSB for communication?

This reminds me of https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1418

Perhaps my Laptop won't put out enough amperage through the Mini USB port.
The MicroUSB port is blocked by the case.

Stefan's thread was helpful. His settings fixed it!

microUSB is the best port for communication. https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Case_compatibility has info on where to drill

russian wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 24, 2018 12:11 am

microUSB is the best port for communication. https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Case_compatibility has info on where to drill

Awesome thank you. I have limited tools where I am right now, so I might have to go at it with a file LOL.
Was this harness modified in any way? There's a jumper cable thats been attached to one of the plugs. Seems to be the CAN connection. There's also some wires taped together in places. Just curious if this was on purpose.

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 24, 2018 12:53 am

Was this harness modified in any way? There's a jumper cable thats been attached to one of the plugs. Seems to be the CAN connection. There's also some wires taped together in places. Just curious if this was on purpose.

that's the way these plugs are wired on the donor Honda. Nothing rusEfi-related.

https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazda_Miata_2003

What are the "Rusefi harness" numbers in reference to?

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:12 am

What are the "Rusefi harness" numbers in reference to?

Just added to the wiki: "rusEfi harness" does not mean much - that's just the way I bundle 4-5 wires together on my cars

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:14 am

NBytevenom wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:12 am

What are the "Rusefi harness" numbers in reference to?

Just added to the wiki: "rusEfi harness" does not mean much - that's just the way I bundle 4-5 wires together on my cars

Gotcha.

Also, does a table exist that maps the STM Pins to the 64 Pin connector? The way it comes assembled?

Any chance you are looking for https://raw.githubusercontent.com/rusefi/rusefi/master/hardware/frankenso/www_docs/frankenso_default_pinout.png on https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board?

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:25 am

Any chance you are looking for https://raw.githubusercontent.com/rusefi/rusefi/master/hardware/frankenso/www_docs/frankenso_default_pinout.png on https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board?

*Facepalm* I didn't see the pins there.

Using the wiki page for the 90 and default pin-out I generated this.

https://goo.gl/gFuXco

There exists a conflict between Stepper enable and Ign 3 in the Full Pinout. I believe the engine type settings should just remove all "Stepper" references right? NBs use a PWM controlled valve.

Is it possible to drive both AC/Coolant fan relays on one pin? Can it handle that much current?

The AC clutch would be an input or an output? Its listed as "AC Clutch relay", so I'm assuming output. Can I use a spare high driver for that? PE12?

For VSS in, that should go into a digital pin, but a high/or low? PC7?

VSS vehicle speed sensor has to be an input-capture timer-capable pin
https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/blob/master/firmware/config/engines/mazda_miata_vvt.cpp mentions boardConfiguration->vehicleSpeedSensorInputPin = GPIOA_8;

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 26, 2018 3:39 am

VSS vehicle speed sensor has to be an input-capture timer-capable pin
https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/blob/master/firmware/config/engines/mazda_miata_vvt.cpp mentions boardConfiguration->vehicleSpeedSensorInputPin = GPIOA_8;

That would be PA8, which should be according to a thermocouple module - which I do not think my board has. Would it be a situation of jumpering it to whatever connector pin I would like?

Yes. I hope the board at least has a hole for pa8 jumping

russian wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 26, 2018 4:29 am

Yes. I hope the board at least has a hole for pa8 jumping

Can't seem to find P6. Looked on my board and Gerber files. Womp, I might have to solder from the underside of the board connector then.