2004 Mazda MX-5 1.8 VVT Frankenso project

[Crazy Striker]

Hello everyone !

I'm Gwendal from France, 20 y.o., engineering student in signal processing.

I've been browsing your forum for at least 2 month now and I think I'm finally ready to throw myself in a rusEfi project.

I have a 2004 Mazda MX-5 with the 1.8 VVT engine, and I've come up with the idea of putting an aftermarket (and most importantly tunable) ECU when setting up my supercharger project.
I plan on using an Eaton M62 from a Merc SLK 230, and as for now I changed the entire exhaust system with a stainless steel one including a decat (only for track use obviously ).

So I will wait one more month (to be paid) and will buy a Frankenso board along with the 72 pins adapter board. I still have not choose between the pre-assembled one and the complete DIY, I'm looking for a hot air gun at my school labs before deciding.

I plan running on bigger injectors as soon as I get a proper tune on the stock one, probably RX-8 yellow or blue injectors, as I want to be able to run on E85.

I have a small experience with C and C++, so I will get into the code soon and maybe one day I will bring up something helpful to you.

The DIY part of the project and the constant updates you brought is what made me choose rusefi and I can only congratulate you all for the hard work.

I hope to come up to you soon with a working project.

Cheers,

Gwendal Aka Crazy Striker

[russian]

I plan on using an Eaton M62 from a Merc SLK 230

Please make this happen! Once yours is running I will repeat your success! (if success)

[NBytevenom]

I'd highly suggest getting the assembled version. The small difference in price is well worth the hours spent trying to figure out what goes where and SMD soldering

I have an 05, so also VVT. My assembled board came with the 64 pin connector soldered on. With my kit I got the 64 pin harness, 72 pin board and connector.
The donor harness will very likely need to have some pins moved around, so I suggest getting a de-pinning tool. You need the small .8/1mm rectangle, or at least that is what worked for me.

https://goo.gl/gFuXco - I made this up using the wiki and a couple pages here, and I'm sure I'm almost spot on. Disregard the wiring colors.

Also, don't forget to use Set engine_Type 32 (in the console - pls correct me if I'm wrong) when you get your frankenso, this will load up a "base tune" of sensor inputs.

[russian]

Dollar store glasses repair screwdriver is a great depinning tool.

[stefanst]

There are no Dollar stores in France

[russian]

Do you guys have eBay? What do you call a quarterpounder with cheese?

[kb1gtt]

In France at McDonalds, you can order a beer with your burger.

[NBytevenom]

Dollar store glasses repair screwdriver is a great depinning tool.

I just got a set of depinning tools. They look like keys, and come on a keyring. They were like 10$ on Amazon.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11pcs-CAR-Term ... Sw8WdbfMqM

Even cheaper on eBay.

[kb1gtt]

Seems like this works fairly well, with tools you probably have laying around.

[Crazy Striker]

Hi all ! Thank you for your replies

I will reconsider the option of ordering the pre assembled board as soon as I will have my all my taxes paid

So you ordered a complete board with the 64 pin connector and made an adapter with the 72 pins boards and a Honda OBD 1 connector ? Your MAP sensor is connected through the original MAF wire into the ECU ?

I've been playing with tunerstudio and rusefi software but I couldn't find any link between the #1 PID table and the VVT. Does the firmware assume the #1 PID table is dedicated to VVT ?

And finally here is a pic of the current status of my supercharger project, I had a new pulley designed (but not machined yet) and I'm currently working on the brackets and mounting gear, which is far from easy...



Have a nice day !

Gwendal

[NBytevenom]

Hi all ! Thank you for your replies

I will reconsider the option of ordering the pre assembled board as soon as I will have my all my taxes paid

So you ordered a complete board with the 64 pin connector and made an adapter with the 72 pins boards and a Honda OBD 1 connector ? Your MAP sensor is connected through the original MAF wire into the ECU ?

Gwendal

I ordered the assembled board, and optioned to have the 64 pin harness with it. This way I'd have the connector to plug into the ECU side and wiring. To attach this to the NB2, I ordered the 72pin board and connector. The board is necessary, but makes life easier.

As for the MAP sensor. I hadn't thought of routing it like that. If you wanted to do that, you'd need to route 4X NB2 side to 3O ECU side.
Then you could just tap the connector/wiring for the MAF and run the MAP sensor signal to that.

Now, it would be even nicer if the MAF used +5V, but it uses +12V, so you can just use the whole MAF harness for the MAP sensor.
I got 5V straight from the RusEFI in my NB1. I believe it can handle the amperage (pls someone correct me on this).

You could in theory use this sensor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Style-3-bar ... 1653990550 If you really wanted to use 12V.

[Crazy Striker]

Hi everyone !
The so hoped wage raise finally came and I just bought my Frankenso Kit this afternoon.
I will be soldering it with the help of some of my school technicians who have acces to some very good soldering stuff I obviously can't afford.

I wanted to know prior to making the adapter harness if all the functions (like VVT and stuff) should be wired prior to first start or if I would be good with only basic functions.
I don't really understand the pinout provided on this page : https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title ... Miata_2003
On the pinout section, I should understand that I need to connect stated stock harness pins on the first line to the one on the third line located on the Frankenso board (Which pinout is discribes on this page if I don't make any mistake https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title ... enso_board).
That lefts a lot of wire unconnected, like for example brake switch and do. If I just follow the described pinout the car should run fine ?

Sorry to be repetitive but I prefer being safe than sorry.

I hope to hear from you soon

Thank you

Gwendal

[russian]

have you seen https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title ... a_2003_alt?

You do not need VVT, alternator, tach, CLT, IAT and a lot of other wires for your first run, especially on a warm engine.

Let me land and I will go over your questions one more time.

[russian]

I should post some pictures of my harness this could be a bit helpful, but that only in about a week from today.

[russian]

I should post some pictures of my harness this could be a bit helpful, but that only in about a week from today.

[Crazy Striker]

Hi, !
Thank you for the link, it's perfect and answers my interrogations.
I would be pleased to see your harness, I'm not in a hurry as the French post tend to be quite long ...
I don't know if you are managing the rusefi store by yourself but do you have an estimation of delays for France.

Gwendal

[Crazy Striker]

Just received it today, didn't thought it would look so clean. Thank you
With the resistor kit should I get everything I need to populate the board ?
Will start soldering job soon and take my time for tricky parts. I still have to get used to 0805.
I will post my progress vere.

Gwendal

[russian]

You should have enought to get you busy and get your var running. You probably do not need CAN or HIP9011 in the beginning

[Crazy Striker]

So far it's going great, never soldered any SMD before but I never worked with varnished board and it makes I so easy. At least for big components, I just started by soldering some isolated components like SD card holder and as much through hole as possible.
For the HIP9011 I have plenty of time and will get one eventually. Where do you source that kind of components ?
Thanks

Gwendal

[russian]

You should have everything inside these little bags

[Crazy Striker]

I just found the TPIC8101 I will eventually have to go to 0805 now

[Crazy Striker]

I'm done for today, pretty happy with my progress, I soldered some very tricky diodes and found out it wasn't so difficult. Will continue tomorrow with the resistors and capacitors

[Crazy Striker]

I soldered most of the resistors and I just have the capacitors, LEDs and small diodes to put on.
Is there a procedure to test each part of the board individually before powering it ?

Gwendal

[russian]

Is there a procedure to test each part of the board individually before powering it ?

The only step is to make sure you test 5v power supply before connecting it to the rest of the board via the safety 0R resistor.

[puff]

using current-limited power supply set at 50mA?

[Crazy Striker]

So with my lab bench supply I power the board progressively using current limiting through the 12V and look at the voltage on +5 and then if it is all right I connect the rest of the board to 5V?
Thanks
Gwendal

[russian]

Yes, at least that's what I do.

[Crazy Striker]

So happy oday, got the supply to work and it works fine, outputs like 5.08V and draws almost nothing.
What is the next part I should complete first. Should I follow the hardware manual order and finish the cam/crank.
I will flash the STM this evening. Should the two end jumper be removed ?

Thanks for everything ! I'm so exited to try it on the car

[russian]

Jumpers? What jumpers? I guess not

Cam/crank is the smallest pitch soldering so finish it? It could be tested by simply GNDing input signal wire

[Crazy Striker]

I thought it would by hard but by applying flux and dragging the solder it gone so well. I also soldered the ft232 quite easily. I just don't soldered some of the components located under the discovery board. I think they are used when just the plain microcontroller is used.
The jumpers I am talking about are the one located on the discovery on the micro USB side. They came with mounted on the board.