rusefi.com

I am currently in process of transitioning from MRE to Hellen Mercedes.

What that means is that in the moment I am making a MRE - Mercedes 128 adapter harness, so that the MRE will be "pnp".

when I am done with that harness, and verify that all functions of the ecu are working correctly (input, output, engine running). I will log, and then repeat that process with the new hellen mercedes.

I am almost done with the harness, I have added Cam position, VVT, MAF, and a second map sensor. Everything is working so far except for the

Ignition coils not firing (have pwr, gnd and signal - need more investigation)

I will upload a video when I have these things working for proof of concept.

In my opinion to be sexy it has to start under 4 seconds. They say under 4 seconds is pretty doable for RPI.

Under 2 seconds would be the next milestone

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 14, 2021 6:48 pm

In my opinion to be sexy it has to start under 4 seconds. They say under 4 seconds is pretty doable for RPI.

Under 2 seconds would be the next milestone

Not possible. The dash on my racecar is cut down about as far as possible, and from power applied to valid data shown, it's 22 seconds.

Sorry, I should say "not possible without writing the dash in C++ and running it in place of init"

http://himeshp.blogspot.com/2018/08/fast-boot-with-raspberry-pi.html says total boot time 5 seconds. Do we need 17 seconds to launch java and connect to rusEFI?

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:06 pm

http://himeshp.blogspot.com/2018/08/fast-boot-with-raspberry-pi.html says total boot time 5 seconds. Do we need 17 seconds to launch java and connect to rusEFI?

that has no gui

If I can get it down to 10s or so I would be very excited. Right now im just excited that it works at all.

Anyone know how to use an iphone as a mouse/keyboard? that would make things much simpler.

I am working through some issues right now.

I bought a new engine harness (because the one used with the MRE was hacked up) from the same year engine I have, but there were some variations

ETB plug was different (I just ordered a different ETB that had the correct plug, fixed)

Crank Sensor different (this is where Im having issues)

The sensor I used before (that worked)
The sensor I have now (which I went to because I didnt want to cut my new harness)
As you can see, the new sensor is just 1 wire. I am not getting any crank signal to my ecu. I am going to do some testing, but if it comes to it I will just rewire for the old sensor.

I found this, might be helpful
link that it came from:

https://w220.wiki/Crankshaft_position_sensor

The 1-wire sensor isn't 1-wire. It's coaxial with a center conductor and a shield. The shield should be at ground potential. Hopefully you just need to change the polarity.

Ill test it out and let you know. I knew it wasnt 1 wire just tried to clarify to differentiate from the other sensor.

Thanks!

Fantastic work man.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crank sensor issue fixed and car is running on Hellen! Ill post a video soon

Still working on this shite.

Engine runs, needs more data (sensors). I need clear info on what pins to use for extra sensors on hellen 128.

I am going to use 2 bosch 0281006076 (combo iat and boost) sensors along with the stock mercedes MAF, and another GM pressure sensor (total 3 iat and 3 boost, and one air flow). because twincharge and because data.

1) What pins to use for extra (2 boost and 2 iat) sensor inputs
2) What pin to use for N75 boost control output
3) What pin to use for Supercharger Clutch (going to relay ground, triggering sc clutch) output

Thanks andrey

Let's open https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hellen-128-Mercedes together!

Looks like rev A has three aux analog inputs and rev B has five aux analog inputs.

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hardware/Hellen/hellen128mercedes-b-schematic.pdf can use some clarity in terms of pull-ups/pull-down resistor values, same applies to https://github.com/andreika-git/hellen-one/wiki/module-input

duhafnusa4 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:48 pm

3) What pin to use for Supercharger Clutch (going to relay ground, triggering sc clutch) output

just improved https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hellen-128-Mercedes#supercharger-clutch

Thanks Andrey!

Pictures make things better.

duhafnusa4 wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:48 pm

N75 boost control output

I have no idea what is N75. Please use universal terms like "relay", "solenoid" or "DC motor".

That is actually a very typical pattern where it's tempting for end users to throw in terms from their specific corner of automotive hobby.

N75 is VAG boost Solenoid. It is a special type, hence why deserves its own designation.

N75 (Boost control solenoid)

Heres the data
Should be around 26hz

it seems like you should be able to connect that with a PWM output that has a flyback diode on it. So like the Hellen miata uses Injector 6 output with diode added. Does your harness have anything on pins E13 or 14? looks like one of those should be usable as long as the diode is added, which is super simple.

BeerMoneyMotorsports wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 04, 2022 11:24 pm

it seems like you should be able to connect that with a PWM output that has a flyback diode on it. So like the Hellen miata uses Injector 6 output with diode added. Does your harness have anything on pins E13 or 14? looks like one of those should be usable as long as the diode is added, which is super simple.

image.png

Thanks for the info!

I am using those pins, as you see below:
INJ3 (E3) is used for the pwm control of the supercharger bypass.
INJ4( E4) is going to be used for VVT control

So that leaves INJ1 (E1), INJ2 (E2). Would either of those work?

Looks like they should with the same flyback installed.

You will need a flyback diode on E3 also for that pwm control. From what i seem to have learned, any pwm solenoid should have one. Im sure there are caveats to that.


See that inj4 for VVT has one already on revA

BeerMoneyMotorsports wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 3:49 pm

Looks like they should with the same flyback installed.

You will need a flyback diode on E3 also for that pwm control. From what i seem to have learned, any pwm solenoid should have one. Im sure there are caveats to that.


See that inj4 for VVT has one already on revA

image.png

So i could just switch the inj4 for the pwm and not need to change anything hardware wise (pointsless because ill need to add a diode for the boost control anyways).

Can I just add the diode inline? on which wire for the boost controller? and what diode?

Thanks!

As the schematic shows, you need to add it on the injector wire you are using for boost. T off of the wire(you can use the jumper close to the header) with a IN4001 or similar diode. So one end will go to R8(example) and the other will go to a 12v source. the diode will have a marking on it, that side is the 12v side.

Thanks beer.

Also thanks to dave I am now doing liquid to air intercooling. Should allow for simpler piping. I already have a pump (secondardy electric waterpump from mercedes) but I still need a heat exchanger and reservoir. Junkyard hunting will be fun.

The intercooler is from a 2012 Ford F250 diesel. Its a beast, and mounting will be a bit tricky, but I look forward to the frost IATs.

Update time

diode installed and boost controller working properly
MOSFET installed on pad 6 for supercharger clutch control. Working well!
supercharger bypass working properly!

The car starts and runs! and ive done some rudimentary tuning, and logs. ive seen .41 bar so far, very excited for more!

pics and vids soon

tune: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=854

Log: https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?log=628

it needs some love.

thicc boi 60mm all alum honda radiator installed and filled and not leaking. Yay. Ill be starting it up tonight and letting it idle to make sure temps stay stable.