rusefi.com

Greetings,
I had already presentment the car in the Hello tread. Here will post progress of running the car with MRE. Summary
Miata (MX-5) from 2002 grey
nowadays with FE3 engine from KIA Sportage 2000. Engine was rebuild with stock parts. I want to keep the original ECU, thus I have to source similar box and connector. Looking at junk find out that for mazda 232 box look similar. I took one for 7$ and see pics after

Please upload your tune to https://rusefi.com/online/

Of course, just to put the top of the box and power it. I will do it

some work in progress during the weekend.
Did close the cover, and it was still working
manage to mount to my test bench, there are several things I wan to share with you.
- my crank/cam signal is generated by an Atiny45 and is 36/1 on every 2 revolutions there is one ping from the cam. what I had noticed that if I let "trigger"in tuner studio to be only crank, I have one value for rev/min if I include the signal form cam it almost double the revs. Have to test on real car.
-I manage to attach to my test bench: the MAP, the injector, the idle valve, and one coil with igniter. when rum for the fist time, the ground was so bad that it disconnect the ECU from TS. I change the ground of the spark plug to be the common "chassis" and connection to TS was stable. But it loose sync ever second or two (I have to check if something with my simulator)

dexter_lab wrote: ↑

Mon May 18, 2020 5:39 am

- my crank/cam signal is generated by an Atiny45 and is 36/1 on every 2 revolutions there is one ping from the cam. what I had noticed that if I let "trigger"in tuner studio to be only crank, I have one value for rev/min if I include the signal form cam it almost double the revs. Have to test on real car.

Please post your tune. Is this "double rpm" happening without any changes to the tune, without changing anything in the settings?

Do you have some kind of insulation under the PCB? That looks like it's really close to a short if it touches the back plate.

yes I have. some thermal pads for TO220 transistor package (under mosfet for voltage regulation)

Ignition alignment

In order to setup properly the ignition advance MRE need to know where is TDC after against marking wheel on the crank. In my case 36/1 teeth. Manually turn the engine to find TDC with a stick in 1st cylinder. the result is on the pictures, I have almost 15 teeth after missing one. In order to confirm this, I did the following setup in TS to fix the ignition advance and keep fire event only on 1st cylinder At first attempt with timing gun (DIY with 3 LED and 9v battery) marking on the crank pully are exactly on hall sensor. In order to get the mark on T mark over engine block I had to change Trigger Angle Offset(deg) to almost 150deg (because each tooth is 10deg) Now markings are right on T mark, confirmed with timing gun and Matthew Kennedy (thank you man)

We had an event. one of the first successful firing of the rebuild engine

Congrats, that's a great event

I am still alive almost one year later - no much progress

Hope to write here more often.

wires - done

not all injectors are created equal
here is a picture of elaboration process then those "dark green" chines specimens are about to be removed from the rail, however one of them already (few test run) had prostate problem end leaking from time to time

Project is operational yesterday I pass the MOT. Today I "broke" it . While in boost one of the T clamps did not manage to hold the pressure. Lucky me it is accessible without removing the bumper. More pics sooon MRE is the best, the car is drawing black lines on the asphalt when in boost

dexter_lab wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 1:56 pm

MRE is the best, the car is drawing black lines on the asphalt when in boost

Any chance you can make pics or better a youtube video of those black lines on the asphalt when in boost? pretty pretty please!