rusefi.com

Here's my test mule.




She's a 1962 Ford Falcon named Grace. I've had her for seven years now. I bought the car when I lived in California, and initially installed a 2.3L Turbo, as shown below.




That engine, while it made good power (350 HP/380 TQ on weak fuel pump), was not a pleasant powerplant. The NVH was awful, and the reliability was also poor. I moved to Michigan and bought a house, so the car project was on hold for well over a year while I did a massive house makeover. For a while I mulled over installing a 2JZ-GTE, or 1GZ-FE (V12), I settled on a small block Ford 5.0L V8 from a Ford Explorer. While not as exciting as some of the other choices, they are cheap and easy to come by here, and are easy to make sufficient power with. Of course I needed something to make this engine more exciting, hence the intake system (I also got it at a massive discount).




Both engines have run on Megasquirt 2. And it's been fine, I've been able to make it do almost everything I wanted. But I kinda reached the limit of the hardware, with tons and tons of add ons.




I was looking for something more capable. I looked at Speeduino, and while it has variants that are more capable than a Megasquirt 2, it felt like it was the same level. They don't do drive by wire/ETB, and apparently never will. Cross that off the list. ECUMaster EMU Black was also at the top of the short list. I stumbled across rusEFI and found that drive-by-wire was actively being developed and I got interested.

Anyway, now I have a Frankenso with ETB hardware, and I'm learning as much as I can My current plan is this:
1. Connect ETB and Accel pedal to ECU, confirm functionality, learn tuning method, etc.
2. Install Frankenso on test mule. Get it running reasonably well.
3. modify ETB to actuate my ITB intake, calibrate that
4. help test and develop Flex Fuel function
5. Finalize tune on dyno
6. ...?
7. help build rev-matching (upshift and downshift) function
8. boost?

Ok, first step: testing ETB function.
I've installed the ETB control chip and want to confirm that I can control a throttle body before I get started. I have a BRZ accel pedal and an LS3 throttle body. I had previously done some testing with this hardware on an arduino and the sensors worked as expected. Now that it's wired into the Frankenso I'm using, I've run into my first problem. Both both primary and secondary sensors on both devices are reading 5V, and none of the sensors change with position, its always 5V. currently I have only one sensor from each device wired in (on pin 43 and 45) and one sensor on each device is not connected, but the result is the same whether the signal pins are connected or not. I'm a bit confused to say the least.

As is we have no data to work with.

Please attach your CurrentTune.msq file (you would maybe have to zip it to attach or use www.rusefil.com/online)

Please attache exact part numbers and the pinouts you are following to wire things. Please spell out which wire goes where.

Something trivial is not right here.

It looks like you've picked channels which are currently set for switches - these channels have 10K pull-ups.

You would need to remove the circled resistors to convert these channels into analog voltage channels. Or maybe switch to channels which have a pull down in the highlighed area, these channels are set for voltage input.

And https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Analog_Inputs helps to know which channel goes where.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Sat May 30, 2020 2:35 am

Something trivial is not right here.

Well that could not have been more right... I somehow had my sensor ground going to the analog 12 pin on the ECU. The TPS and APS sensors are now sorted, and I'll get a decent power supply to the ECU and start testing the throttle body functionality. As is, the little 2A wall wart isn't up to the task of opening the throttle plate, and it's shutting the ECU down.

eBay has "power supply adjustable 5a" for about $50

also I am often testing my stuff with a non-adjustable 5A 12V adapter.

Continuing in ETB troubleshooting. This is hardware setup. In the next post I'll try to describe behavior of the setup.

The diagrams show how the ETB, APS, power supply, and ETB chip are wired.
12v PWR comes in through pin 12
GND to battery is on pin 39
ETB motor 1 is on pin 2
ETB motor 2 is on pin 13
5v source is pin 44
ETB TPS 1 is on pin 43
APS 1 is on pin 25
sensor GND is on pin 53

TPS2 and APS2 are currently not connected.
12v source comes from pin 12, at location W02
ETB motor 1 (OUT 1) goes to pin 2, at location W03
ETB motor 2 (OUT 2) goes to pin 13, at location W04
IN 1 comes from PA10
IN 2 comes from PA9
ENABLE comes from PA15
DISABLE comes from PD1
5V power comes from P1103 location
GND comes rom P1103 Location

ETB board R4 value is 1 kOhm
ETB board R5 value is 2.2kOhm

Back to my long abandoned thread...

I eventually figured out how to make the ETB, and maybe more importantly I learned several stupid mistakes to not make again. (don't set electronics on a metal surface, use loctite on your cam sprocket bolt, etc...)

One big impediment to progress was that I had no well, I blew up my motor in spring 2021. One week before I moved from Michigan to California, I took my cousin for a ride in my car. I downshifted, heard a clatter, and the engine was dead. It turns out the cam sprocket bolt backed out and the cam drive pin sheared. This caused valves and pistons to become intimately acquainted, crushing the roller lifters into metal shards, bending pushrods, valves and the camshaft (!!). My wife was none too pleased, so lets say congress did not provide funding for our program for a while.



Eventually I got back at it. I got functioning ETB a year ago, and then forgot about it for a while my free time went to other pursuits, mostly mountain biking and bike building.


But now I'm back at it. I got the go-ahead to put a new engine into the falcon. This is in progress. I got a 5.0 from an explorer with 96k miles. So far it looks pretty good.



Next post will show the recent progress.

Glad to see you back!

Oh the costly lessons

Here is a run-through of how my ETB motor mounts to the ITB intake.

Wow.

She's finally alive and running on a very frankensteined frankenso, with my ghetto ETB!

Thank you for posting the video! Feels great to see a rusEFI unit actually being used

Thanks Andrey. I couldn't have done it without a lot of support from you and the rest of the community (particularly MCK and abricosvw).

While I was changing over the ECU, I took the time to remake the wire harness (adding several sensors/actuators) and clean up the fuse panel.

Before:


After: