Ok, so I've soldered the USB connector. Which MCU pin is the "program " button connected to? I assume either SWDIO, NRST or BOOT0?
I know, right?
Ok, so I've soldered the USB connector. Which MCU pin is the "program " button connected to? I assume either SWDIO, NRST or BOOT0?
I know, right?
Reminder that official STlink programmers are only $10, and connect with a 10 (or 14) pin ribbon cable, no fiddly jumper wirestmbryhn wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 10:25 amDownloaded the f4 .hex-file for Proteus. Got it uploaded via ST-Link and connected the USB cable, which showed up as a generic COM port in Device Manager. Got some blinking/flashing LEDs going on too (COM and Warning).
Struggling to re-connect with ST-link regardless of USB connection; seems it's "held in reset".
it'd be a bit tricky to get that to work, since knock sense needs nearly-exclusive use of ADC3.
Yes, that should be okay. That way the required software changes will also enable other people wiring in a bluetooth module to the header on normal Proteus.
That makes a lot of sense. Just checked the datasheet, and it seems there are no spare analog inputs left if knock DSP is active.
Nice. I'll proceed with wiring the BT-module to USART2. How's the setup procedure in firmware to make it work? I'm already familiar with the usage and setup of HC-modules with terminal and pairing in TS (old MS user).
There is no easy way. We have very limited developer resources and I believe we would not be able to help with the hard way of doing that.
Please post your tune & log files at rusEFI Online. I believe it would be best for you to at least give it a try and for us to say how it looks?
[The extension ini has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]
[The extension msq has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]
[The extension msq has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]
It's great even for non-running testing tunes. It's infinitely easier for people to glance at a tune at rusefi.com/online than it is for you to download the msq, open in TS, try to find the right ini that matches that msq (remember, just about every build has a unique ini - hundreds per week).
Yes, this is a feature. If you're running Proteus firmware, it expects you to be using a Proteus, where the divider is 9.2.tmbryhn wrote: ↑Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:32 pmBattery and Alternator Settings -> Battery Input Divider Coef:
This value seems hard-coded into firmware. Every change of the variable that is being burned in order to fine tune the battery sensed voltage will reset back to "9.2" whenever power is cycled, thus throwing the battery voltage calibration out the window.
We do something similar, where we start in wasted before full sync, then transition to sequential. However, we don't fall back to wasted if you lose the cam, since there really isn't a need to - so long as you don't lose sync, the ECU will stay in-sync even without the cam sensor.tmbryhn wrote: ↑Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:32 pmTrigger Setup:
I'm still playing on the bench tester with my motorized 36-1 VR crank input. I'm running "36/1", "4 stroke without cam sensor" and no VVT or secondary trigger inputs enabled.
If I define "Individual coils" and "Sequential" under ign and inj settings, the coils and injectors will fire in fully sequenced mode (1,2,3,4 ...) - even without a cam sensor present. This behavior would work 1/2 times on an actual engine given that the ECU doesn't know the engine phase - the other half, you'd get nasty backfires
Megasquirt fixes this by running in wasted spark and semi-sequential fuel delivery until a valid cam pulse is present - even if fully sequential/direct spark is defined in settings. Thus letting you start the engine as fast as possible or with eg. a faulty cam sensor. It will also only use the cam sensor upon initial sync (obviously given that no VVT is activated), and as long as there are no missed trigger events on the primary tach input (crank), the cam input will be ignored. If a primary tach trigger miss occur, the MCU will temporarily go back to wasted spark/semi-sequential operation, start looking for the cam signal on the secondary tach input for phase detection, before resuming direct spark etc. once phase has been detected.
You don't really want this - it'll slow engine start compared to just using the crank. Right now we can start the engine in under one revolution with a good tune and a trigger type with lots of teeth (24-1, 36-1, 60-2, GM 24x, etc).
I believe there is an inconsistency here. Not saying that this is relevant or else but just stating that VR2 is in an interesting state.