rusefi.com

New laptop let's see if https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads is still great

New license plate lamp, new oil, new used EVAP solenoid and new used ABS control module

same/similar error code after solenoid replacement? huh? at least this solenoid is not shorted as the one I've removed.

DSC codes are same?! do I have real pump issues or do I not reset codes right?

note to self: 13907618643 seems like same or similar to 7512582. Maybe 13907618643 is the whole assembly which includes 7512582 solenoid which is not sold separately?

Weird thing that I now have three solenoids and those all behave differently if I poke with DMM. One is shorted that one is kind of blah, but why do I fail to read 2-40 ohms on the other two? eBay used shows at least something, the bank 2 on the car shows infinite resistance yet no check engine codes? I am a bit confused.

Both buttons in the front of steering wheel are for downshifting. There are two more behind the steering wheels. Those are for upshifting.

front/downshift button 0x192: 6A 00 82 while holding
rear/upshift button 0x192: 6A 00 81 while holding

Now I am confused. I had bank 1 EVAP error code. That one is buzzing in continuity mode and that one reads 30 Ohm resistance.

Used from eBay does not buzzing in continuity mode and reads 60 Ohm.

The other once which I believe is bank 2 reads no resistance.

Funniest part of all this - I had same valves on M73 and I threw those away while cleaning the M73.

I am confused how come the one without resistance does not throw a code while changing from 30 Ohm to 60 Ohm, buzzing to not buzzing causes code to re-appear. My best theory is that I am barking at the wrong solenoid? Hm.

Bill can you measure the same on your N73?

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 19, 2022 9:10 pm

My best theory is that I am barking at the wrong solenoid? Hm.

I was barking at the wrong solenoid.

The side with oil filler cap is bank #1 but intakes are flipped - above bank #1 with cylinder #1 we have intake for bank #2. I've replaced the solenoid with longer hose which is bank #2 solenoid. It's not important that it's only 30 Ohm and buzzing is continuity mode - ECU is happy with it.

For the record both of Bill's solenoids are 90 Ohm.

My check engine light is gone! That's pretty huge for my OCD. Let's see how trivial it would be to implement "reset memory codes" in Lua or at least have TCU visible in INPA with proteus-in-the-middle

Two wire bypass a diode and a resistor in parallel? What is the job in this setup?
screen grabs from here

PLASTIC GEAR IN electronic PARKING BREAK?!?!?!?!?! In a $100,000 v12 GDI vehicle?!?!?!?!?

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 20, 2022 3:07 am

PLASTIC GEAR IN electronic PARKING BREAK?!?!?!?!?! In a $100,000 v12 GDI vehicle?!?!?!?!?

Only I am not fixing this because unlike the video where they have easy access to the actuator I have Rear AC Blower Box + Roof AC Option + Fridge Refrigerator sitting on top of it.

Both buttons in the front of steering wheel are for downshifting. There are two more behind the steering wheels. Those are for upshifting.

Well, I have the buttons, I see CAN bus messages for upshift buttons - but it would not upshift. Went to a wide lonely road to play a bit - it would not upshift. Downshift works great.

Great drifting potential: in manual shift mode it totally stays in second gear. I am afraid to go above 5K in 2nd gear without DSC I just do not have enough control over the car.

@abricosvw has extended my life expectancy today by adjusting the hood latches - both latches lock now and the chance of hood opening on the highway is way down now.

We've also realized that Steptronic upshifts at 6500 rpm. Proteus-in-the middle would have to start lying about RPM to force 6HP26 stay in second gear.

Bill reminds me of

https://www.bmw-rudel.de/index.php/bmw-e66/werkstattecke/mechanik/13-e65/18-reparatur does not spell out how to remove the shiny (steel?) ring maybe they imply that it's trivial.

I have a training pump, I am lookin for advice on what tool would help me pull the ring. Let me spray WD40 for now.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 20, 2022 9:09 pm

I have a training pump, I am lookin for advice on what tool would help me pull the ring. Let me spray WD40 for now.

image.png

this perhaps?
https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-pc-62601.html

Done. It was hairy.

First time I did not align things right, I've crashed the o-ring and left a mark on the bronze seat. Not sure if I would be able to remove the large steel ring from this pump if I ever need to do that. I've reused the o-ring from the training pump and everything is back together and not leaking.

I am totally not looking forward doing same on the other side. The other side has dipstick in the way, I should really focus on rusEFI side of things and only mess with the membrane if I really have to.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 20, 2022 3:47 am

Only I am not fixing this because unlike the video where they have easy access to the actuator I have Rear AC Blower Box + Roof AC Option + Fridge Refrigerator sitting on top of it.

you have the PIMPIN back seat... everybody needs a fridge in the back...

this test mule is ready to well, mule

Bill has a freshly damaged variable valve lift valvetronic sensor with wow 9 pins?! Matt says those contain KMA200
Programmable angle sensor https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/KMA200.pdf

useful shit for Electrical troubleshooting

https://e65club.com/?page_id=513

7527017 they say? Cute location on this N52 need to go find it on my N73

to be placed on a valve cover? is it triggered from a special sprocket, or just from a normal cam? + what type os sensor is that?

looks like special separate third shaft in addition to two cam shafts?
Just the plug on top, note how front engine cover is removed to get access to third bolt for sensor replacement.

Not so bad for rebuild rear struts

Here's the old (water damaged?) 412265002-001 valvetronic control module from my car - one module for whole engine, both banks.

Note two mc908az60amfu HC08 series Microcontrollers.

Just a note to myself https://thepiratebay.org/description.php?id=45480685

yessir, that pirate bay download will make your life easy...

my notes on install
your machine may be different
windows 10
----------

ISTA
put in the required stuff ( visual basic, etc ) shown on the readme
just run the .EXE install and it works
need 140 GIG hard drive and 4 GIG ram

got to wrench icon and change the EDIBAS mode for the communication

go to device manager and
COM PORT
change the usb serial device to COM1 ( under ADVANCED)

copy the EDIABAS folder to the root of C: drive
open the EDIABAS/BIN/EDIABAS.INI file in notepad and
change
interface= STD:OBD
and
TCP
port to 6801 ( should already be 6801 )
save and close

Random cool pictures - coils harness is a separate harness and injectors harness is a separate harness

I had amazing success adding refrigerant into my Nissan with a random Amazon kit AC Recharge Kit with Hose and Gauge ACP200-6.

My 760 charge port (under the hood all the way in the front, passenger side) is larger diameter, wtf? Are there multiple styles of connector or am I looking at the wrong port?

low side port is harder to see - it's a bit down on passenger side of engine, next to ABS unit

where was zero pressure and now I have cold air!

What OIL are they talking about??!R@#$@!#$

I got my "BMW and cooling system plastic" badge!

Great news that it has crapped out on my driveway.

bmw 17127508038 is a part-from-hell-specific-to-760