rusefi.com

yes, there is "global trigger offset" setting in degrees

in general, we will make any setup work. you add two more cylinders we will make it run as v14.

Lambo97 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 17, 2021 7:29 pm

Can the software compensate for the fact that the M70 crank pully is 4 teeth off the M73 timing? You can see the sensor mount is dead center on the 4th tooth after the missing tooth on the M73. My Hope is rusEFI can compensate for the pulse difference . Andrey is this true?

no problem, you can infinitely adjust the phasing of the trigger system. You can put the trigger wheel pretty much wherever you want and it'll work fine.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 17, 2021 7:51 pm

in general, we will make any setup work. you add two more cylinders we will make it run as v14.

That sounds like a challenge

mk e wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:43 pm

That sounds like a challenge

hasn't failed us yet....

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:45 pm

mk e wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:43 pm

That sounds like a challenge

hasn't failed us yet....

sitting on my shop floor waiting for my time is a 1947 flathead Lincoln V12. It had 8 intake ports. Siamese ports can be quite challenging to deal with as there really is no way to spray fuel on the close intake at low power and not have it stolen by the mating cylinder....unless I direct inject is maybe, the worlds first direct injected flathead? Then there is the 36 cylinder 24k rpm radial-like engine I draw up years ago when I realized there was no cylinder limit in the class I was racing, only a displacement limit.

I watched a few videos of a Lincoln V12 tear down and running. Amazing how it's only a step away from a lawn mower with the valves off to the side. It's like my V12 only having 2 valves per cylinder, when they clearly could have had 4 valve dual overhead cams!

Yellow car motor update. Working late every day, tear down, clean, and reassemble. Each part cleaned and painted as I go.

How are things?

Yes an update is in order. We work on the cars every 2 days. I've been painting and prepping the motor for the yellow car. Here's an updated pic set:
Rob has been gutting his engine bay, rewelding up the firewall with an access door to be able to change the belts. He hasn't built the door yet, just a big hole.

This is looking forward from the rear of the black car. We're adding some tube steel and removing other tube to allow the engine trans to fit from front to back. Next pics will come in a few days. We will be the engine hanging in the engine bay with the transmission mounted to do an axle length check.

Next Saturday we will pull the motor from the yellow car so I can start the engine bay cleanup. Goal is to have the engines in by March. We decided against starting the motors on a test bed and just get them into the cars so we can test the electronics. Lots of work but we're chuging along.

This is... very cool.

Lambo97 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 14, 2021 2:26 am

We decided against starting the motors on a test bed and just get them into the cars so we can test the electronics.

Wow, thank you for putting the trust in rusEFI!!

Yes, you proved it can run the V12 and with your help along the way I think we will have no issues!

Where did the center engine cover come from? Its a very neat piece.

That is seriously awesome. Well done guys!

Thanks, I bought a complete engine bay dress kit back in the day when they were available. It's actually designed to fit over the Chevy 350 sideways. I didn't know I was going to try a V12 until this year and remembered I still had the kit in my attic. I'm glad it sits proper on top the motor. Robs car will be more old school with no cover, like the original Countach, just big red spark plug cables running up the middle from the coil packs to the plugs. So my engine bay will look like this:
I'm 3d printing the rubber adaptors to connect the huge 4 inch hose to the 3 inch throttle body tomorrow. This is how the coupler will look on the throttle body.
and the black cars engine bay will look more like this:

you still have the A/C compressor on the engine? are you gonna use A/C ??

We actually bought new compressors. I don't need it too much being open top but the black car has 4 inch opening windows so he needs it for those hot 100F days. Plus it's needed as a part of the belt system to tension the water pump so it's sort of needed.

Pulled the carbureted Chevy out of the yellow car.
Gutted the engine bay
Same time started refreshing the Black Car's Engine.
Should have the Clutch and flywheel next week then we start the ACTUAL install process of welding in engine mounts. Getting excited the closer we get to running and tuning the motors. Lots of grinding and welding left but we're working on it every day so lots of fun.

so the engine was transverse and strut suspension?...fiero stuff or ?????

Yes just like a Miura. I didn't like the weight being so far back. The car stuck well in the turns but the motor was high and rear. I started this project with the motor back in 1995 then bought the body in 1998. I used Fiero rear cradle and seat pan. I got rid of the rear toe links, and rebuilt the front suspension with better camber and got rid of the old school understeer and scrub radius issues of the Fiero. Aas you can see the control arms are of my design. I used 88 Fiero spindles that didn't have the toe link issues. I've had Koni's on the rear to adjust the rebound but now I want rear ride height adjustment so I'm going to cut off the perches and install coil overs.

Both Motors are now back together. One looking like a 84 Countach and the other like a 95 Diablo.
Had to machine a missing tension adjuster on my home 6090 router.
Cleaned up and welded some extra gussets to strengthen the frame.
Cut the engine mounts. What a mess, but worth it.
Installed these replica side caps for the engine bay I had for about 10 years thinking one day I will install them!
Excited to get rid of that wiring soon, replace with the rusEFI harness.
Finishing up the tensioners today and test fitting the motor again to weld in the mounts. Going to be a fun day. Next pics will be the motor in the yellow car with transmission. Lots of work!

this is epiciest rusEFI build. thank you for keeping us in the loop!

pretty epic!

do you have the tranny and the engine mated up... and the clutch working?

Last few days I've had to fabricate the engine and transmission mounts and test fit the motor. Here are a few shots of last few days work. The flywheel and clutch are in the mail, should be here tomorrow or next day so I should have an update so you can see what they look like.

Audi 012 Transmission with 01E adaptor fits like a glove.
Dropping engine in for test fit.
Engine in Engine Bay, looking good.
Welding in motor mounts.
Transmission hanging out the back with modified upside-down Boxster mounts. Tonight's project to weld in the transmission mounts.

I saw this projects in my dreams today.

Dreams were not technically accurate - in the dream you've started the engines one bank at a time which is not how it would work for Proteus

And the build continues. I spend most nights until 12:00 or 1:00am working on the car. Mostly making mounts for things like coils, and evap canister, painting and cleaning as I won't have time or empty engine bay to do it later. Alot of drudgery work making brackets for the mufler, battery, mufler heat shield, roll bar, and air intake.

Air intake shield New Battery tray and Stupid expensive yellow top optima. Hope to not have to change this for 10 years! I think this tray took 16 hours to figure out and weld in.
From inside the engine bay looking backward this area used to have a stainless steel heat shield on an angle which took too much room and was heavy. This one is aluminum and give lots of space for the transmission and 2 mufflers that will live left and right of center.
Rear roll bar, this is Pontiac but the control arms are of my design. I opted to use what I had some spare Honda CRV bar links I cut in half and welded to the control arm. Once painted black, should look Factree.
Muffler sits on an angle right about here.
Flywheel came in. custom spec to fit between the M73 using the starter ring from the M70 behind it. The clutch is Audi S6 dual kevlar for up to 500 HP, but still smooth engagement. Don't want a light switch.
Started the wiring tonight gonna have a few questions for Andre I'm sure. Andre you labeled the throttle body plugs 1 and 2. Which side does each go? Are we calling driver side 1 and passenger 2? Or does it matter since they will be working in tandem?

Thanks,

Does not really matter but lets place etb 1 where you have cylinder 1/head 1/coil 1.

i believe we do not plan to control evap solenoid unless you use FSIO, so far we were avoiding it

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 13, 2021 2:47 am

Does not really matter but lets place etb 1 where you have cylinder 1/head 1/coil 1.

i believe we do not plan to control evap solenoid unless you use FSIO, so far we were avoiding it

Agree that ETB1 should be plumbed to cylinder 1. We don't do anything with it yet, but in theory could in the future. Does the engine have a "crossover" or balance pipe between the independent plenums?

And yes, evap valve can be done with FSIO or GP-PWM if you really want to hook it up.

Thanks for that, I was planning on just 2 solenoids, one to open when they got Key IGN to allow the charcoal gases to get pulled into the intake in front of the ETB and the other to close when key turned off to block gasses from filling up my garage! Dam float bowl vent tube on my old Holley would evap the bowl into the garage as soon as I parked. Sick of the gas smell! Or is that too simple a solution?

I've been going through the harness for the V12, I see there is a intake temp line. I haven't plumbed one yet, would this temp sensor be ok to use for that line.

I'm using it for coolant temp,

Reads 73K at 15C, goes down as it gets hotter.

Lambo97 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 13, 2021 3:46 am

I'm using it for coolant temp,

Reads 73K at 15C, goes down as it gets hotter.

hmm, that's pretty high.... do you still have the stock BMW? They should work great.

Lambo97 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 13, 2021 3:46 am

the other to close when key turned off

As of right now ECU shuts down when you turn the key off. While we are flirting with delayed ECU shutdown as of today there are major code defects there and it's disabled.