[help needed] 1993 Manual Swapped NA6 Miata

[AndreyB]

Connect and program are two different drivers, you have one working but not the other.

Please try installing https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_external_utils/blob/master/DFU_mode/DfuSe_Demo_V3.0.6_Setup.exe?raw=true it also comes with driver installer

[CheeriooV2]

OK! Forget about all the nonsense about the firmware update, I got it fixed! It was a missing driver. I installed an STM in DFU mode driver then everything is good. I did the update, but the car still won't start up. And here is what I see. no pin cl coil#1. Another hardware issue?

[AndreyB]

No, this is a software issue.

I assume that this has happened when you have connected to your microRusEFI using either ALL or Frankenso bundle, both wrong for your ECU.

Please use a microRusEFI project template. In the "popular vehicles" button there will be buttons to reset your microRusEFI to some Miata defaults.

Once you reset your microRusEFI unit to miata please post your tune again. At the moment all your tunes at https://www.rusefi.com/online/?vehicleName=Mazda+Miata&user_id=1482 are not microRusEFI tunes and both show empty "injection hardware" section.

https://www.rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=557&dialog=ignitionSettings

[CheeriooV2]

So, some progress today, the car started when I reset the tune to a preset, NA6 Miata MAP. However, the car was running poorly. Some black smoke came out from the exhaust. The idle speed is around 1400. I tried to mess with the VE table, doesn't work. I've uploaded the tune and some data log I did today, I tried to drive around the block and use the autotune, but the car runs so poorly, can't even go past 3k rpm and the autotune is not working. I have two guesses, one is the O2 sensor is not working, since the AFR I saw was always 16.7 or around that. Second is the TPS is not calibrated, the value I see is from 10~70% on the tunerstudio. Let me know what you guys think, I'm stuck...
I just made the tune and log upload to rusefi online, you guys can check it out and might see something wrong.

[AndreyB]

This AFR is too constant to be real. What wideband controller are you using? I have never seen AFR line so straight, I am pretty sure things are very broken here.

TPS plays quite a secondary role as long as your change your RPM slowly, TPS does not deserve your focus at this point in my opinion.

We have a bug with that non-zero RPM at the end but that's again not your primary problem.

image.png (110.47 KiB) Viewed 3671 times

[CheeriooV2]

Yeah, I found that AFR is weird too. I don't have a wideband O2 sensor yet, isn't there a stock O2 sensor that comes from the factory? Or I have to get a wideband sensor in order to have the AFR reading to be correct? Another question is do I have to have an accurate AFR reading in order to tune the car driveable and stabilized at idle? I want to get the car back on road soon And do you spot any hardware problem from the log?

[AndreyB]

Ohhhh that would explain it

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/do-i-need-wideband-oxygen-sensor

[CheeriooV2]

Well, I was finally getting some progress on stabilizing the idle, the afr reading was working, surprisingly. after I few restart the car just stop starting up... And I tried everything to reset the ECU, update the board again, reset all setting to the NA6 MAP reset, doesn't work... Below is what I saw.

[AndreyB]

I am still a bit confused.

What wideband controller is wired to rusEFI how?