rusefi.com

Hi all.
This is quite rare (at least for Russia) Subaru SVX. With flat opposite 6 cylinder 3.3 liter NA engine, producing around 230hp on stock ecu. This car is AT only. AT is too weak for this engine. Also I was bored of driving AT cars only. So I decide to go manual. Also positive side of this swap is that my wife is not able to drive this car anymore. This is subaru legacy 6MT transmission with DCCD center diff from STI. And front helical gear diff, also from STI but another model year. This was done to car last year.
Also I was developing my own pnp version of ECU for this car https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1470 .
Today we (I and Andrey) finally start the engine!

This is first run with no throttle pedal touched. Cranking and idle settings are almost random.
We also not sure about trigger offset/TDC position. But at least it runs.

This car has only few sensors: coolant T, throttle position, MAF and two narrow AFR.
I was suggested to add at least MAP sensor. Already ordered some MAP from turbo subaru.
Also I have two wideband AEM AFR gauges. Need to figure out CAN issue and install both.
May be I should also install some more sensors? IAT? Something else?

Funny thing we found while working with two subarus: in documentation ECU injectors outputs are numbered according cylinder number, while ignition outputs are numbered in according to ignition order.

This car logbook (russian) https://www.drive2.ru/r/subaru/svx/531252683533713438/

Ignition coils wiring Injectors wiring

And triggers: Crank #1: Crank #2: Cam:

it's either andrey is in spb or you've moved to america... )

There should be an IAT sensor inside the MAF...

puff wrote: ↑

Sat May 29, 2021 1:43 pm

Andrey is in spb

You can even see my body parts on the video above

https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1470

Here's the amazing "I saw the LED blinking where is my spark" setup using US donor parts I've so conveniently brought with me

@mck1117

Some time ago we had a conversation in Slack about symmetrical trigger patterns. You suggest me to create such for Subaru 6+7 - move Cam trigger pattern to separate shape and convert crank to FOUR_STROKE_SYMMETRICAL_CRANK_SENSOR.
Unfortunately Subaru Impreza is not available for tests now. But I want to implement such scheme for SVX. See my post above for trigger patterns.
Crank #1 is symmetrical.
So I defined 6 events for crank... one thing I had to do is to shift it 10 degrees to make last falling event exactly at 180. (As far as I understand this limitation is applicable to FOUR_STROKE_SYMMETRICAL_CRANK_SENSOR too).
So my question - should I define Cam shape with same 10 degrees offset? Or should I shift it so it also has last event at 180?
If second - how can I define shifts between crank and cam patterns?

Holy Moly look what I've been missing.

Perhaps its time to revisit the SVX Rusefi project of my own. Thank you.

Plan was to install IAT and MAP sensors and do ultrasonic clean of injectors...
First I found some extra parts. Hope this is not part of last person trying to fix this car Vacuum hoses become total crap... Both knock sensor have cracks... And second idle valve - Auxiliary Air Control Valve. This is interesting thing, I did not see anything like this on other cars. I don't understand why this valve is needed while the is By-pass air valve. Both are doing the same thing. I'd like to remove this Aux Air Control Valve, because of old hoses and pass all additional air through main idle valve...

Looks like this valve is used during warming only. This valve is mounted on coolant pipe and seems is not controlled by ECU. Looks like additional air going through this valve can be a problem in case non-stock ECU and Alpha or MAP based tuning?

1.6 miata has auxiliary mechanical valve on the intake as well

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 25, 2021 6:20 pm

1.6 miata has auxiliary mechanical valve on the intake as well

Hope ECU controlled valve has enough passthrough to compensate deleted mechanical valve. Had to delete because connecting hoses has a lot of cracks and no replacement available.
Also IAT+MAP sensor was installed. Only after installation was done I understood that intake is divided into two peaces by resonance charge valve... And while this valve is closed MAP will measure pressure in one half only. But MAP is measured for each cylinder... So I'll have to hack SW a bit to use values measured for odd cylinders only...

For initial running you can leave that valve open, you will loose a bit of low end torque but it should be fine.

Same kind of thing they used on the porshe and bmw engines.

Weekend update:
1. One of these plugs is broken. Just no spark. I wasted 5 hours swapping coils on plug and injectors... 2. Shit plug cause such AFR diff. And of course week ago when I installed only one sensor I did install right one. That is why autotune cause engine to stop.
3. Engine is leaking oil... through exhaust. Good new is that Pavel found broken spark plug in a 10 minutes, found problems in my tune and showed me how to properly use VE autotune.

Firsts revs up to 4000 shows problems with trigger. Hope this is not HW-related and will be resolved by trigger shape adjustment in SW.

NCV1124 is too sensitive for cam sensor. Getting trigger errors above 3500 RPM. Time to play with Radj.

First road run. Absolutely not tuned.
Log and tune are uploaded to https://rusefi.com/online/index.php?vehicleName=Dron+SVX&user_id=111&sorts[uploadedMsq]=-1&sorts[uploadedLog]=-1 .
Any comments are welcomed.

How should I properly tune idle to avoid RPM oscillation? It sounds cool, but...
Should I start from PID tuning? Or it is caused by wrong VE table?

have you already tuned open-loop (ie, manual mode) to get really close to your target speed?

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 21, 2021 8:18 am

have you already tuned open-loop (ie, manual mode) to get really close to your target speed?

No. I was trying, but small changes in idle position in manual mode make huge RPM change. And engine becomes unstable when lowering RPM to target (800 RPM).
I read https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2020 once again. Seems I should enable idle ignition table and try to play with ignition advance.

You really need to get to where you have a stable idle with idle control off.

An idle ignition table as you say or where I prefer is to put that info into the main spark table and fuel fables because it generally makes a smoother transition coming off idle then a table switching setup. Timing should be stable in the idle region so 100 rpm below idle set point and maybe 1 at your high idle or just above is a good place to start and set them both to the same value so timing is stable in the region you're trying to control idle. Sometime set timing a bit retarded so the engine is a little sluggish in the idle region also helps. If you have rpm set points to spare, a 3rd at the idle set point it also good sometimes but it usually not needed unless you find you want high idle a little different setting wise or you may want to set the -100 rpm point to maybe 1 degree more timing than the idle point so the engine naturally wants to rev is rpm drops....anything you can do to make the system inherently stable so the active idle control has very little work to do. I do the same with fuel so the mixture can be tuned at idle to help get it smooth too. I generally match the spark and fuel rpm set point. And if all that fails I set the auto idle 25 or 50 rpm below the mechanically controlled idle so the auto system handles warm-up and when it drops to warm idle it's effectively turned off unless sometime is cause a stall condition then it springs back to action.

Screenshots are great
Screenshots AND links to rusEFI online are better!

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 21, 2021 1:32 pm

Screenshots are great
Screenshots AND links to rusEFI online are better!

Link to full log is one message above

Dron_Gus wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 21, 2021 9:34 am

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 21, 2021 8:18 am

have you already tuned open-loop (ie, manual mode) to get really close to your target speed?

No. I was trying, but small changes in idle position in manual mode make huge RPM change. And engine becomes unstable when lowering RPM to target (800 RPM).
I read https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2020 once again. Seems I should enable idle ignition table and try to play with ignition advance.

Before you start adding closed loop, figure out how to make it stable at 800rpm. If your engine isn't stable at 800rpm with fixed idle position, something else is wrong.

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 21, 2021 6:07 pm

Before you start adding closed loop, figure out how to make it stable at 800rpm. If your engine isn't stable at 800rpm with fixed idle position, something else is wrong.

That is what I was also trying to say in my much longer less clear way.....open loop needs to work right first.

Thank you all for replies! Going to spend this weekend in garage. Hope to finish crank and idle tuning.

So. Instead of idle and start tuning Due to

Not an RusEFI issue

Oof, that's not great. Why'd it happen? How many km on the engine?

mck1117 wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 31, 2022 10:15 pm

Oof, that's not great. Why'd it happen? How many km on the engine?

200ooo km.
Mechanic says due to overheat. Seems by previous owner. I did only about 2000 km on this car and never see high temp on coolant gauges.
Radiator already has plastic top replaced with welded aluminum. This is known issue for this car - blow of radiator.

Ok. Pistons were replaced with EJ22's +0.5 pistons - the only one available. This drops CR from 10.0 to about 8.4. That makes me start thinking about turbo.
Few variants were suggested: TD05-20, G25-550 and G30-770. Borg's EFR is too progressive and expensive for this 90's engine. While car is in mechanical shop I finally assemble ECU.