rusefi.com

Starting a new thread for us to discus what we are doing with the rusEFI with the 24hoursoflemons 93 Ford Festiva...

We have had the car running on the rusEFI, fixed some sensor wires, adding another vacuum sensor and made a trick case cover...

Hopefully this coming weekend we get to rev the motor and input flow numbers from the MAF sensor...

Do tell, do tell. Are there pictures? Trick case cover sounds interesting.

Wonderful! Don't forget to post videos.

I will post pictures Saturday of the case...Waiting for one part to finish it off...And will remember to take video on Saturday when we fire it up...

We are hoping to take it to the dyno the weekend after next to see what it does with the stock computer and then with the rusEFI...

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First video of the car running with us troubleshooting a sensor issue

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Got the sensor issue fixed and the running on all four cylinders next up dyno day

blue line is stock ECU, red line is rusEfi

russian wrote:blue line is stock ECU, red line is rusEfi

Dyno plot

Nice bit of extra torque, but what is happening after 5500 RPM ? Stock ECU well outperforming rusEFI there..

Not 100% sure yet, we tried throwing additional fuel and additional timing at the motor and it improved some with fuel, no real measurable improvement with additional timing. We have a few other things we are looking at to get the horsepower back into to car at the top end of the RPM range...we are quite happy with the results so far, made about 24 pulls on the dyno and a lot of progress...

A few videos of the car on the dyno

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Does this have an EGR valve? Perhaps it's leaking some exhaust into the intake and choking off air at higher RPM.

Does it have IAC / idle air control valve, perhaps rusEFI could open that to get slightly better airflow.

My Subaru has an emission flapper thing, that closes at idle to get better emissions. Does the intake have any devices like this that could be choking air flow?

I don't see missed fires, so I don't think you have any problems with dwell, and you seem to be at your limits for fuel and spark, so I think your now limited by O2's in the cyl.

No EGR. It does have an idle solenoid but we were not doing anything special to it, but the way that passage is shaped - it makes a bend inside the TB and goes around the butterfly... Do not know if it would feed any EXTRA air.

probably, the easy way to check: block it (remove it) and run a dyno-test again…
e-throttle?
is there a way to compare ignition timing in stock and rusefi setups at full throttle/given rpm?

puff wrote:is there a way to compare ignition timing in stock and rusefi setups at full throttle/given rpm?

Yeah, I was thinking alike, it might not hurt to check actual ignition timing with a timing gun to check the actual timing is in line with what you want it to be with rusEFI!

We did compare it with a timing gun, pretty close values. rusEfi has more torque then OEM from zero to 5500 rpm, that's what we need for road racing.

Yeah, we did a pull on the OEM ECU and video recorded the timing gun on the car, then did the same with rusEFI and used that to see that we needed more timing on the upper end of the pull...after the adjustments we were really close to what the OEM was doing regarding timing advance...

The idea that we are air starved on the top end is definitely something we are talking / thinking about, the question would be how to get more air into the motor...

Found these numbers on a protege on the dyno, which are REALLY close to what we got out of our car / motor...

http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/performance/protege-exhaust-dynotest.html

What intake manifold are you guys running on the BP engine?
Your signature says BP-4W cylinder head, so I am assuming you are running a Miata '99-'00 cylinder head and intake manifold.
Also running the Miata cams? If so you should see a meaty power band all the way up to 7000 rpm.

If you are running a Miata '99-'00 intake manifold if might have something to do with VICS:

I find it quite striking that you are seeing the same dip around 5000 rpm with the stock ECU, making me believe you are running the VICS value open with the stock ECU and closed with rusEFI.

If you are running a '01-'05 intake manifold you should control the VTCS flappers in the intake, although I expect those flappers to have a much bigger impact than VICS, so I assume you are not running a '01-'05 VTCS intake manifold

Running another BP intake manifold might also be troublesome as the intake ports on the >'99 Miata head are different causing your intake ports not to line up (and that would also hurt top-end power)

According to this thread http://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/vics-operation-57041/ there is a cross over point that the MFG programmed for 5250 RPM, and others have verified on a dyno for around 56kRPM.

BP-4W 99 Miata head with 99 cams, modified FWD BP intake - see http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?62174-what-can-I-take-from-BP-4W/page2 for details

Ignition table, please note that we do not know where TDC is exactly because timing belt cover with the marks is missing, would need to address that later.


For fuel table we did not do it right yet: instead of properly tuning VE map and then adjusting target AFR, for now we have AFR at 14.7 and we set unrealistic VE above 100% to get rich, that would need to be re-done later once I figure out some Tuner Studio integration issues:

I found this Mazda Miata ignition timing table on another forum...

Also, don't we have an engine cover somewhere in the spare parts that we can get the reference marks off of?

you posted similar flat ignition table some time ago - it is incorrect!
advance should decrease at higher loads!

I am just a guy touching the keyboard. The person in charge of the tune is @

Out of curiosity, have you been able to run the Frankenso board in the car for a prolonged period of time? I'd like a data point to see if the ECU will overheat. AKA fuel injectors could turn off if it gets to hot. I suspect you need to add a block of aluminium to keep it cold, but testing would be the real way to tell if it has a heat issue.

Well, I wouldn't say prolonged running, but we did 20+ pulls on the dyno on the Saturday without any issues and the system was running the entire time....Now it was about 50-60 degrees in the shop so it wasn't like it was race conditions in May @ NJMP...

A video from back in May - still not rusEfi
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Quick update...we have the new motor in the car and running on both stock computer and rusEFI, we need to button up a few things under the hood before we start tuning, however we have added a couple of gauges to make tuning easier, one of which is a wideband O2 sensor...dyno session after the new year...

Great news, keep us posted.

Ok folks, this Saturday is the big day...We are taking the car to the dyno!

We have done a bunch of learning driving up and down the driveway and made a ton of progress and learned a lot to this point...Including making sure the upper intake gasket is sealed properly (set us back two weeks)...

So, we are getting to the point of no return to the stock computer...We have changed from a throttle body found on a manual car to one found on an automatic so that we have a better TPS sensor for getting data from...We are getting close to eliminating the MAF sensor as well, both of those will be the things that make us 100% rusEFI...

Stay tuned for our dyno results!

Can't wait, keep us posted.