Hello from Colorado
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Hello from Colorado
Apparently I accidentally double-posted, so I went to delete one and it got rid of them both....so now on to the third time.... Anyways, I have an old flathead 6 powered truck that runs in LeMons and have been toying with the idea of fuel injection and electronic ignition for a little while. I am mechanically savvy but not so much programming savvy. Anyways, I know I need a MAF, TPS, Camshaft position sensor, and Ideally an O2 sensor. My questions basically are what sensors work with the Frankenstein board? How do I trigger the spark?(coil on plug?) What type of fuel injectors do I need to use?
- AndreyB
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Re: Hello from Colorado
Good morning!
Short answer: any sensors would work, rusEfi is still not the easiest thing to use.
Longer answer: you can re-purpose your distributor to become cam-shaft position sensor, that would do it.
You would need either MAP or MAF (MAP probably easier to install and probably a better choice then MAF anyway)
CLT is pretty much required
IAT not so much required
TPS not currently used as long as you have MAP or MAF
narrow band O2 - not used yet, because it's not providing too much info
what you would definitely need for custom crazy job would be a wideband-O2 - and that would be part of 'tuning', i.e. adjusting the settings used to run your engine. That's the tricky part from having your engine barely-running to having your engine running for 24 hours strait.
See http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=822 - we are hoping to debut rusEfi @ NJMP race in May!
Short answer: any sensors would work, rusEfi is still not the easiest thing to use.
Longer answer: you can re-purpose your distributor to become cam-shaft position sensor, that would do it.
You would need either MAP or MAF (MAP probably easier to install and probably a better choice then MAF anyway)
CLT is pretty much required
IAT not so much required
TPS not currently used as long as you have MAP or MAF
narrow band O2 - not used yet, because it's not providing too much info
what you would definitely need for custom crazy job would be a wideband-O2 - and that would be part of 'tuning', i.e. adjusting the settings used to run your engine. That's the tricky part from having your engine barely-running to having your engine running for 24 hours strait.
See http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=822 - we are hoping to debut rusEfi @ NJMP race in May!
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Re: Hello from Colorado
Thanks for the response. So coolant temp is required. So how exactly is the spark controlled? Does it work with coil-on-plug?
- AndreyB
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Re: Hello from Colorado
The boards are only producing low-power signals so you need COPs with build-in igniters, or you would need to use an external igniter like early COPs didwizard0ne0 wrote:Thanks for the response. So coolant temp is required. So how exactly is the spark controlled? Does it work with coil-on-plug?
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Re: Hello from Colorado
Cool, so it does send a signal to the COP to trigger timing. What fuel injectors work?
- AndreyB
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Re: Hello from Colorado
Any high-impedance port injectors, that's most of the injectors out there. The only OEM port injectors this does not work with are pretty much just Ford Lima 2.3 T and RX-7 T injectors.wizard0ne0 wrote:What fuel injectors work?
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- abecedarian
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Re: Hello from Colorado
Not sure I'd say "most" injectors are high impedance, but without numbers to prove it I won't say that.
What I will say is that Toyota, Honda and most other manufacturers have used both low and high impedance injectors, so you do have to be careful; a little research would go a long ways here.
Since you're looking at a new system for your vehicle, probably better to keep it that way and just get new injectors from a source like http://www.rceng.com or similar. Depending on the injector size you'll be in about USD $80-150 for each, give or take, with the costs towards the upper end if you want the injectors flow-matched.
RE: COP, russian would have to clarify this but the ignition signal required would depend on the COP. For LS-type coils that would be a logic-level output brought high for ~4.5-6ms then taken to ground to fire the plug; the length of time would be analogous to dwell time for a normal coil; other COP might be different. I'm sure if you could provide the details about what you need, it could be made to work.
What I will say is that Toyota, Honda and most other manufacturers have used both low and high impedance injectors, so you do have to be careful; a little research would go a long ways here.
Since you're looking at a new system for your vehicle, probably better to keep it that way and just get new injectors from a source like http://www.rceng.com or similar. Depending on the injector size you'll be in about USD $80-150 for each, give or take, with the costs towards the upper end if you want the injectors flow-matched.
RE: COP, russian would have to clarify this but the ignition signal required would depend on the COP. For LS-type coils that would be a logic-level output brought high for ~4.5-6ms then taken to ground to fire the plug; the length of time would be analogous to dwell time for a normal coil; other COP might be different. I'm sure if you could provide the details about what you need, it could be made to work.
You can lead the horticulture but you can't make them think.
Re: Hello from Colorado
You can usually identify what injectors are lowZ vs highZ by how they were used in an engine. The early 80's ish engines which used one injector in the carb as a way to replace the carb, those were typically lowZ, while pretty much any more modern OEM port injected vehicle with one injector per cyl will be highZ. Also you can often find an injector by looking for an OEM injector of a similar sized motor. Once you get an injector you can verify it it's highZ by checking it with a multimeter, it should measure about 12 to 16 ohms of resistance instead of less then 2 to 3 ohms. Odd are that you'll find highZ injectors these days, as most of those 80's ish vehicles are no longer in scrap yards.
These folks have a nice tool for finding an injector. http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/Fuel_Injector_Flow_Rates.html Take note they include flow rates of many injectors in the lower parts of that page. I got an injector this small injector for my snow blower for $24 http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/5164544/5340009.htm I expect you could find injectors for closer to that $24 range if you look for OEM options instead of high performance injectors racing injectors.
[edit] kb1gtt corrected the ohms range for high vs low z injectors [/edit]
These folks have a nice tool for finding an injector. http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/Fuel_Injector_Flow_Rates.html Take note they include flow rates of many injectors in the lower parts of that page. I got an injector this small injector for my snow blower for $24 http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/5164544/5340009.htm I expect you could find injectors for closer to that $24 range if you look for OEM options instead of high performance injectors racing injectors.
[edit] kb1gtt corrected the ohms range for high vs low z injectors [/edit]
Last edited by kb1gtt on Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy
- abecedarian
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Re: Hello from Colorado
Injectors < ~6 ohm, typically 2-3, are low-Z; > 10 ohm, typically 12-16 are high-Z. 1K ohm or greater is almost unheard of.
Mitsubishi and others are currently using low-Z injectors on some port-injected models, so like I mentioned, a bit of research... so on and so forth; you should be fine.
*cheers*
Mitsubishi and others are currently using low-Z injectors on some port-injected models, so like I mentioned, a bit of research... so on and so forth; you should be fine.
*cheers*
You can lead the horticulture but you can't make them think.
Re: Hello from Colorado
Freaking decimal place. Aabecedarian is correct highZ is around 12 to 16 ohms, lowZ is around 2 to 3 ohms. I mangled the decimal place when I did the math in my head.
Welcome to the friendlier side of internet crazy
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Re: Hello from Colorado
It's all good. At the moment it looks like I will be using S52 BMW stuff for the coils and fuel injectors(that is what happens to be lying around right now) and most of the sensors are coming off of a late 90's dodge v6 that is lying around in the yard.