rusefi.com

Posted: **Sun Feb 24, 2019 3:38 am**

That's probably reasonable. I agree that the antenna is short, so probably not a big deal. My key concern is how much energy the input circuit needs to absorb. It sounds like you have a funky VR, perhaps a magneto. It might be generating more watts than a standard VR, so you might need the R111 or R112 installed. I'm not sure, but figured I'd raise the cautionary note.

Posted: **Mon Feb 25, 2019 4:36 pm**

kb1gtt wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 24, 2019 3:38 am
That's probably reasonable. I agree that the antenna is short, so probably not a big deal. My key concern is how much energy the input circuit needs to absorb. It sounds like you have a funky VR, perhaps a magneto. It might be generating more watts than a standard VR, so you might need the R111 or R112 installed. I'm not sure, but figured I'd raise the cautionary note.

ZHoob2004 wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 29, 2019 7:39 pm

The schematic I posted last time has coils drawn on it but I don't feel that's very accurate. My VR looks pretty much identical to the picture ZHoob2004 posted - there is a pickup for each wheel. AFAIK that's a standard VR type sensor?

I think we talked about this before - IIRC the chips will go into thermal shutdown if its too much power (within reasonable levels)? I've got a little IR thermometer I can use to check on them.

Posted: **Sat Mar 16, 2019 1:17 am**

Well, the MAF won't work, its not a potentiometer. I could get into it but it doesn't matter.

Is there a specific MAP sensor people are using with RusEFI? Or can I just pick up anything I can find with a calibration table already out there?

Posted: **Sat Mar 16, 2019 3:19 am**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Sat Mar 16, 2019 1:17 am
Is there a specific MAP sensor people are using with RusEFI? Or can I just pick up anything I can find with a calibration table already out there?

"GM 3 bar" from eBay or any GM or really any MAP since 96% of them are linear voltage output (with exception of some weird Ford frequency-output)

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 7:17 am**

russian wrote: ↑
Sat Mar 16, 2019 3:19 am
"GM 3 bar" from eBay or any GM or really any MAP since 96% of them are linear voltage output (with exception of some weird Ford frequency-output)

Ok thanks!

New issue, tried to test trigger synchronization today. At first, no counts at all. I checked the schematic and it seems like I'd need JP04 and JP05 installed (which I hadn't). But when I jumpered those and turned power on I got a pretty nasty noise coming from the engine bay. Seems like it was trying to cycle my fuel injector way fast. I disconnected all the other sensors and actuators, but can't get to the fuel injector connectors.

Can someone confirm that I need to install JP04 & JP05 in order to use VR?
Is there a way to make sure rusefi is not trying to run the engine? Nevermind, I'll just set injection enabled to false.

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:55 am**

Typically for the MAX9926 to drive your cam and crank ECU signals, you need the JP04 and JP05 found on page 1 of the schematic. Occasionally I've seen some little jumper wires on these to change something. However typically they are installed with no jumper wires. I do now know your circuit, so I do not know for sure if you need them, but if you are using the MAX9926, then yes you probably need them. With out them I would expect you will get no crank angle pulses, and no RPM decoder.

Also most people will remove the wires from the fuel injectors, remove wires from driving the coils and will remove the spark plugs. Once they have crank angle decoded and TDC detected from cranking, then they can start to verify spark, and fuel. If you do not do it this way, you are running risk of electrical fire and hydro-locking.

Posted: **Mon Mar 18, 2019 11:49 pm**

kb1gtt wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:55 am
..

Installed the jumpers, depinned the injector wires, and got a few cranks in. Unfortunately my battery is flat

. RusEFI console did show an RPM, and posted a few errors.

Code: Select all

2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 30 expected 4/24/0 got 14/2/0
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 54 expected 4/24/0 got 28/0/0

and

Code: Select all

2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 54 expected 4/24/0 got 24/4/0
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 54 expected 4/24/0 got 24/4/0

I assume the upper log just means it hasn't stabilized yet. And the lower log suggests I have the pins flipped. (Confirm please)

Triggerinfo details below.

As far as fuel, on my car its way easier to just unplug the fuel pump (which I had done), but I think it was trying to use some really weird duty cycle on the injector, or maybe the ground was floating? I'll sort that out later.

Code: Select all

2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: Template CUSTOM (0) trigger TT_HONDA_4_24 (12) useRiseEdge=Yes onlyFront=Yes useOnlyFirstChannel=No tdcOffset=0.00
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: trigger#1 event counters up=0/down=93
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: trigger#2 event counters up=0/down=10
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: expected cycle events 4/24/0
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: trigger type=12/need2ndChannel=Yes
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: expected duty #0=0.50/#1=0.50
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: synchronizationNeeded=No/isError=Yes/total errors=5 ord_err=0/total revolutions=5/self=No
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: primary trigger input: PC6
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: primary trigger simulator: PD1 OM_DEFAULT freq=1200
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: secondary trigger input: PA5
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: secondary trigger simulator: PD2 OM_DEFAULT phase=55
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: trigger error extra LED: NONE OM_DEFAULT
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: primary logic input: NONE
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: secondary logic input: NONE
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: zeroTestTime=4 maxSchedulingPrecisionLoss=17629
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: advanceLookupTime=372 now=-651894163 fuelCalcTime=2124
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: ignitionSchTime=2074 injectonSchTime=0
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: mapTime=7310/hipTime=1672/rpmTime=294/mainTriggerCallbackTime=2694
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: maxEventCallbackDuration=1322
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: hipLastExecutionCount=0
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: hwSetTimerDuration=280
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: totalTriggerHandlerMaxTime=10127
2019-03-18 16_43: EngineState: maxPrecisionCallbackDuration=5660

Posted: **Tue Mar 19, 2019 5:45 am**

Appears to be getting better - still not perfect.

Code: Select all

2019-03-18 22_36: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 30452 expected 4/24/0 got 4/15223/0
2019-03-18 22_36: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 68 expected 4/24/0 got 4/31/0
2019-03-18 22_36: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 66 expected 4/24/0 got 3/31/0
2019-03-18 22_36: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 188 expected 4/24/0 got 1/94/0
2019-03-18 22_36: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 56 expected 4/24/0 got 4/25/0

2019-03-18 22_38: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 30318 expected 4/24/0 got 2/15158/0
2019-03-18 22_38: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 58 expected 4/24/0 got 4/26/0
2019-03-18 22_38: EngineState: error: synchronizationPoint @ index 56 expected 4/24/0 got 4/25/0

Engine sniffer seems to have caught it. Ready to try spark?

Posted: **Tue Mar 19, 2019 5:50 pm**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 18, 2019 11:49 pm
I assume the upper log just means it hasn't stabilized yet. And the lower log suggests I have the pins flipped. (Confirm please)

yes, looks like you just need to flip input pins in the settings. some errors are OK while syncing trigger during cranking, but these are expected to stop appearing once you run

Posted: **Tue Mar 19, 2019 5:51 pm**

Do you have a timing gun to confirm your TDC is where red line is? As long as you are confident about timing it's time to crank with fuel and spark

Posted: **Wed Mar 20, 2019 3:12 am**

russian wrote: ↑
Tue Mar 19, 2019 5:50 pm
...some errors are OK while syncing trigger during cranking, but these are expected to stop appearing once you run..

Good to know thankyou!

russian wrote: ↑
Tue Mar 19, 2019 5:51 pm
Do you have a timing gun to confirm your TDC is where red line is? As long as you are confident about timing it's time to crank with fuel and spark

I do have a timing gun, that's next on the list. First I want to confirm that all the hardware is hooked up correctly.

Then:

MAP wiring
Get and install an automatic Throttle Body and TPS
First Start
Fab a testpipe and install the wideband
Tune
...
Profit?
...
Boost

Some of those top ones are waiting on a trip to the JY, but its been raining pretty much nonstop recently.

Posted: **Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:49 am**

I think you forgot some items on your list.

10. Sharks with lasers on their forehead
11. World domination

No plan is complete with out these two goals.

Posted: **Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:35 am**

How about some fire-breathing snails? And don't forget to add:
0. Contribute to RusEFI

Got spark, it hops around a bit but I assume that is due to sync not being perfect while cranking. I'll check again when I've got it running - hopefully it sits nice and stable then. Its going to be at least a week before I can make any more progress.

Posted: **Mon Apr 01, 2019 12:45 am**

0. Contribute to RusEFI (does a tiny bit of documentation count for now?

)
1. MAP Wiring
2. Get and install TPS
3. First Start
3. a. Injector configuration

For the TPS, where do I set the full throttle and idle voltages? I get 88.9% throttle at foot to the floor.

3. b. TPS configuration
For batch injection (1 & 3 grouped and 2 & 4 grouped) do I need to configure the pins for 1,2,3 & 4, or just 1 & 2?
If I need to configure all 4 I assume I'd just pick the same pins for 1 & 3 and 2 & 4?

Posted: **Mon Apr 01, 2019 2:04 am**

Do you calibrated TPS in tunerstudio ?

Posted: **Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:10 am**

Abricos wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 01, 2019 2:04 am
Do you calibrated TPS in tunerstudio ?

Found it thanks! I must say, its strange that its been put in a different place then all the other similar configs.

Posted: **Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:43 am**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:10 am
Found it thanks! I must say, its strange that its been put in a different place then all the other similar configs.

True. It's a long story

Added a comment to reduce confusion at least a bit https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/commit/5d26b6fdae6baff77a7a8b91dce4ad3d87a5357b

Posted: **Mon Apr 01, 2019 6:42 pm**

russian wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 01, 2019 7:43 am
True. It's a long story
Added a comment to reduce confusion at least a bit https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/commit/5d26b6fdae6baff77a7a8b91dce4ad3d87a5357b

Sounds good!

Can you advise on the batched fuel injector software configuration?

Posted: **Mon Apr 01, 2019 9:21 pm**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 01, 2019 6:42 pm
Can you advise on the batched fuel injector software configuration?

Sorry missed that one, here you are: https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/commit/969b553d42c6a0c7db9c069e5421685fed84fd23

Posted: **Wed Apr 03, 2019 5:50 pm**

russian wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 01, 2019 9:21 pm
Sorry missed that one, here you are: https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/commit/969b553d42c6a0c7db9c069e5421685fed84fd23

Thank you!

I'm going to try to start it up tonight, I've got a friend coming over to help keep an eye on things. Fingers crossed, failure is expected

I get the feeling that there is some info in this thread that might be useful to others (both general and specific to the car/systems), do you have any suggestions on where I might document this? I was thinking something along the lines of a Frankenso first-timer tips and tricks wiki page, but let me know what you'd prefer.

Posted: **Wed Apr 03, 2019 7:04 pm**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 03, 2019 5:50 pm
I get the feeling that there is some info in this thread that might be useful to others (both general and specific to the car/systems), do you have any suggestions on where I might document this? I was thinking something along the lines of a Frankenso first-timer tips and tricks wiki page, but let me know what you'd prefer.

It has to be on github, wiki has to die one day.

So, see https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/blob/master/FAQ/HOWTO_Help_rusEfi.md
see https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/tree/master/Frankenso

Posted: **Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:45 pm**

russian wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 03, 2019 7:04 pm
It has to be on github, wiki has to die one day.

So, see https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/blob/master/FAQ/HOWTO_Help_rusEfi.md
see https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/tree/master/Frankenso

Copy that. Maybe that could be put in big bright letters at the top of the wiki?

Doubly so if people are automatically redirected there after entering rusefi.com (I'd say).

Posted: **Tue Apr 09, 2019 2:55 am**

It's definitely not ready for prime time and I am not sure what is the migration plan. At the moment my transition plan is to make everything a https://rusefi.com/s shortcut and some of them go to github already

Posted: **Sun Apr 28, 2019 4:34 am**

russian wrote: ↑
Tue Apr 09, 2019 2:55 am
It's definitely not ready for prime time and I am not sure what is the migration plan. At the moment my transition plan is to make everything a https://rusefi.com/s shortcut and some of them go to github already

Gotcha.

Busy quarter at school for me, as always. Just getting some serious time in the garage again this weekend.

I updated to rusefi bundle 20190412_2350 a while ago (on the 12th I would guess...

) and something got screwy with my configuration. I fixed most everything now, but for whatever reason the Honda trigger shape 4+24 is now looking for 8+48.

I've got it configured as 4-stroke, without cam sensor. It still seems to look for 8/48 if I change it to 4-stroke, with cam sensor.
Please advise.

Posted: **Sun Apr 28, 2019 7:43 pm**

Please use "4-stroke, without cam sensor" if you sensors are on crankshaft.

Please use "4-stroke, with cam sensor" if at least one of your sensors is driven by camshaft.

Make sure to save/turn everything off/make sure to reboot/make sure changes were saved just in case.

Posted: **Sun Apr 28, 2019 10:21 pm**

Using 4 stroke w/ cam made no change. However, selecting 'use only rising edge' did...

Tried to fire it up, wouldn't catch. Breaking to eat and get some homework done, then gonna try again tonight. Going to switch over to custom toothed wheel and try to trigger on just the 4 toothed wheel - it seems to be more reliably picked up by rusEfi.

EDIT: oh, can I run the rusEFI console and tunerstudio at the same time? @

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 1:10 am**

So, I'm back at it again.

Trigger seems to sync pretty good when I just use the 4 tooth wheel. I get some errors when I use both (4+24).

However, when I enable ignition and shut off the starter motor (so the motor is stopped) the RPM will jump around for a few seconds before settling to zero. Is this normal? I have none of the flyback diodes installed.

Thanks

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:09 am**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 09, 2020 1:10 am
However, when I enable ignition and shut off the starter motor (so the motor is stopped) the RPM will jump around for a few seconds before settling to zero. Is this normal? I have none of the flyback diodes installed.

this is NOT normal for sure.

Posted: **Mon Feb 10, 2020 5:20 am**

Did some more testing today. Disconnected all the wires for the 24T wheel (at the pickup and ECU), plus removed the appropriate jumper wire on the ECU board, and removed the jumper wire I had connecting the grounds for my weird setup.

No change.

From looking at the logs it seems that when the coil fires there is some cross talk with the crank position. I've changed the setting to use a fixed timing which is not simultaneous with TDC. Testing to follow in the next few days.

Also, 24T wheel is completely unusable. With the engine stopped it thinks its spinning ~3500rpm. This may be related to the above point, but I'll just use the 4T wheel for now.

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 1:15 am**

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 10, 2020 5:20 am
From looking at the logs it seems that when the coil fires there is some cross talk with the crank position. I've changed the setting to use a fixed timing which is not simultaneous with TDC. Testing to follow in the next few days.

This appears to have fixed it. I actually ended up using a nonzero trigger angle offset, but the effect is the same - shift the VR signal away from the spark noise.

I suspect that this is why the toothed wheel inside the distributor does not coincide with TDC (5, 8, or 10 degree offset as previously shown in the official documentation) - too much noise in the system when the coil fires.

rusefi.com

88 Toyota Camry 2.0 (3SFE)

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