hello all - Mitsubishi #31

Post by **AndreyB** » Thu Feb 02, 2017 3:28 pm

I know some older toyota cops needed external igniters, what about these ones?

What are your VP jumpers wired to - are you feeding 5v or 12v to the high side chips? Would not blink without it.

matt · Post by **matt** » Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:21 pm

issue fix. my fault, led is wrong orientation.

my cop is built in ignitor. jumper set to 5v.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Thu Feb 02, 2017 7:33 pm

Did you install the high jumper for the high side voltage?

matt · Post by **matt** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:33 pm

kb1gtt wrote:Did you install the high jumper for the high side voltage?

Not yet. I jump directly to db37.

How to calibrate mpx4250? I can't see it's button in tunerstudio.

matt · Post by **matt** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:50 pm

got it!! it is in engine setting.

matt · Post by **matt** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:59 pm

is there in TS got menu that i can detect which pin is conflict to others?

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:23 pm

For hi / lo drivers, for high side, you need to select voltage. This is done by installing a jumper P604, P605, P606, or P607. You can choose 12V or 5V. The LED is OK with either of those, but will be slightly dimmer with 5V drive.

The LED's tell you that the actual output is operational. You may be controlling the MCU IO, but if don't have the high side set to a voltage, the output is not working, so no LED.

Post by **AndreyB** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:05 pm

https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/350/

There is no button to calibrate map sensors

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Feb 04, 2017 12:30 am

kb1gtt wrote:For hi / lo drivers, for high side, you need to select voltage. This is done by installing a jumper P604, P605, P606, or P607. You can choose 12V or 5V. The LED is OK with either of those, but will be slightly dimmer with 5V drive.

The LED's tell you that the actual output is operational. You may be controlling the MCU IO, but if don't have the high side set to a voltage, the output is not working, so no LED.

for hi/lo side driver i set to 5v jumper. so it's output will be 5v? i will driving with toyota yaris cop. i only found p602 and p604, others not found yet.

*edit: i look at r0.5 scematic, and p604,p605,p606,p607 is there, but with ro.2 scematic there is only two jumper p602 and p 604.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sat Feb 04, 2017 3:25 am

Your 0.2 revision has only one jumper for VP, not sure which one p602 or p604 please check schematics.

Making progress with https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/350/

matt · Post by **matt** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:59 am

any example for injection phase table?

Post by **AndreyB** » Sun Feb 05, 2017 1:16 pm

I am not aware of anyone runnng not default

matt · Post by **matt** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 1:06 am

so default value is -180 for all table?

Post by **AndreyB** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 1:11 am

yes for 4 cylinder

matt · Post by **matt** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 7:13 am

: frankenso_0_2_assembled_full_size_1.jpg (1.04 MiB) Viewed 30463 times

ok, my phone camera is faulty, so i download this picture from forum.
injector output i change to 1->2, 2->3, 3->4, 4->5 because it easy to me to monitor the led blink from the other side of board.
what i am notice, injector trace for injector 5 (white circle) is thinner from injector 1,2,3,4.

so, it is suitable to drive injector at this point? (injector 5)

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 11:00 am

Yes this is OK. You may notice the harness pins get significantly larger for those edge connections. This pin is rated for 1A, so I designed the trace for 1A, which is a 12 mil trace. The other connectors are rated for 10A, so I made the traces wider. To get closer to 10A out of the other traces would require heat sinks on the driver chips, but with out heat sinks it appears we are good for a 1A drive.

matt · Post by **matt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:53 am

i don't know either got fake mosfet or maybe something about wrong configuration. i measure between 12v and injector pin at board and got 6.22v. my fuel pump keep running no off switching.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 1:53 am

Do you mean the fuel pump is run of a MOSFET? Typically a fuel pump consume many amps. I would expect an external relay operates the fuel pump and the Frankenso board operates just the relay coil.

matt · Post by **matt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:50 am

No. I mean my fuel pump drive by relay. -ve trigger switch this relay.

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:17 am

I'm not understanding. Is there a problem? if so what is the problem. I think you are saying that a fuel injector is not acting as expected, but I'm not sure.

You can test specific IO with the console, which can be helpful in tracking down issues. For example, if you disconnect the fuel pump connector, or pull the fuel pump fuse, then de-pressurize the fuel rail, such that you do not have fuel pressure, in the console you can manually turn on the injector. You can hear it click, and you can see the LED go bright. As well this would be a steady state, so your multi meter readings would be correct.

When measuring an injector with a multi meter during normal operation, the injector will be pulsing. This pulsing can mangle the meter reading. A meter is typically designed for something like 60Hz. If you have a different frequency, the meter does some odd things. The pulses are not at this frequency.

If you soldered your own board, keep in mind that one side of the MOSFET is connected to a large ground plane. You need to keep the iron on this long enough to get a good flow of solder. It's reasonably easy to not heat it enough and get a cold solder joint. If you discover a problem with the console in a steady state mode, then I would first look to the solder joint(s).

matt · Post by **matt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:22 am

Yes. Done few testing just now. IO test in tunerstudio and i can feel The injector click.

matt · Post by **matt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:03 pm

kb1gtt wrote:I'm not understanding. Is there a problem? if so what is the problem. I think you are saying that a fuel injector is not acting as expected, but I'm not sure.

You can test specific IO with the console, which can be helpful in tracking down issues. For example, if you disconnect the fuel pump connector, or pull the fuel pump fuse, then de-pressurize the fuel rail, such that you do not have fuel pressure, in the console you can manually turn on the injector. You can hear it click, and you can see the LED go bright. As well this would be a steady state, so your multi meter readings would be correct.

When measuring an injector with a multi meter during normal operation, the injector will be pulsing. This pulsing can mangle the meter reading. A meter is typically designed for something like 60Hz. If you have a different frequency, the meter does some odd things. The pulses are not at this frequency.

If you soldered your own board, keep in mind that one side of the MOSFET is connected to a large ground plane. You need to keep the iron on this long enough to get a good flow of solder. It's reasonably easy to not heat it enough and get a cold solder joint. If you discover a problem with the console in a steady state mode, then I would first look to the solder joint(s).

good explanation, and thats is i am trying to said. thanks.
from my logic thinking, while mosfet not switch on, output pin (pin 5,6,7,8) will float. and when its turning on, it will switch a ground signal to output pin.

so i done some test, not sure this is the proper way or not. +ve multimeter to +terminal battery, -ve multimeter to output pin 5,6,7,8 and i got 6.22v. this is for fuel pump. or should i put some resistor at output jumper?

kb1gtt · Post by **kb1gtt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 5:14 pm

I think we may be dealing with a language barrier. Are you using google translate to convert this to English?

I do not understand your problem. Can you answer the below questions.
Is this a problem with the injector?
Is this a problem with the fuel pump relay?
Is rusEFI controlling the fuel pump relay?
Do you have a schematic?

I think you mean the fuel pump relay is not acting properly. In the console, can you turn the fuel pump on and off? Do you hear the fuel pump make noise when the console indicates it is on? If you measure 6.22VDC when on, do you measure 12VDC when the console indicates that it is off?

matt · Post by **matt** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 6:31 pm

Ok, long story cut short. my pump not working. It keep running when i turn on the key. Injector seems ok, i have Check it with io test in tunerstudio, and can feel The click when i touch it.

Yes, itu have r0.2 schematic.

Post by **AndreyB** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:53 pm

mattsabun wrote:Check it with io test in tunerstudio

I recommend bench test in rusEfi console - I believe it's more reliable

any chance you have wiring or configuration issue? try re-purposing pins - try using one of the injector pins to drive the fuel pump - would it work?

do you have other extra channels to use? sounds like soldering issue with this channel or configuration issue. What exact pin is used for pump? Pins PE0 and PE1 are known to have issues with discovery so not used with later boards.

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:34 pm

what is debug fields in tunerstudio use for?

matt · Post by **matt** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 4:24 pm

i dont know how to figure the console yet. for fast test i wired it to engine and cranking it for a few second. engine seems to start, but it won't. trigger warn blink 2-3 times at rpm 198 to 200. this with mitsu trigger in tunerstudio.

i tried to change trigger to miata na. rpm bit stable and no trigger warn. after few second cranking, got explosion sound at exhaust!! maybe tomorrow morning i will continue again. now is 12.18am, i dont want to disturb my neighbour.

Post by **AndreyB** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 4:52 pm

mattsabun wrote:what is debug fields in tunerstudio use for?

undocumented advanced diagnostics, only documentation is the source code

matt · Post by **matt** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:36 am

got any different between miata na trigger and mitsu?

Post by **AndreyB** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:39 am

mattsabun wrote:got any different between miata na trigger and mitsu?

Looks like TDC position is different in definition but shape look the same.

Do you have a timing gun to confirm that timing is right on your engine? You would maybe need to offset TDC position with settings to make it right.

See http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:First_engine_start

rusefi.com

[rusEfi] hello all - Mitsubishi #31

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