rusefi.com

Beautiful gauges placement!

Thanks russian!

Do you have a log of the 6500 RPM issue?

Ok ok, I'll get some logs first, maybe will scope the signal again with the extra thick ground cable and we can start from there.
hmmm... I don't think it could be the STM performance issue, but I can also try the test with two discovery boards.

It looks more like some hardware problem, signal filtering, some component maybe is soldered badly?
Or maybe its the ground cable of the crankshaft sensor? But this wouldn't make any sense because the car revs perfectly to 7000RPM on stock ECU.

As you all know since I have changed the crank pull-up resistor to 5k it seems a bit better, previously I was only able to rev to about 5000 RPM now it revs higher. Maybe I should try a 10k?

I'll spend more time on this problem probably this weekend and will try to show you all the results.

Cool and keep us posted. Especially if you get scope captures which show the trailing and falling edges, as well the scope can show you your GND voltage referenced to the batt negative terminal.

Can you please post a picture of your board? I am mostly interested in the breakout section wires.

I'm currently waiting for an enclosure for the frankenso. Russian when I get back home I can give you more details about the wire connections if you require?

I had a chance to design and 3D print this enclosure for my frankenso board.
The enclosure does the job! I'm really happy with it.

Also I have a little problem with the LCD screen, the third and fourth lines don't display correctly.
Datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2021794.pdf?_ga=2.148292404.2062789835.1519852061-829666683.1519852061

Some Photos:

You can modify the enclosure using onshape or any other free cad software if you like. The enclosure has some clear plastic windows, to see whats going on inside, its usefull to see the LEDs. I have used 3mm clear plastic. It' is glued to the enclosure using super glue

By the way... It wasn't easy to solder those USB wires.

Very nice, very nice.

I might have suggested to use extension cables, then glue the connection instead of soldering wires directly to the PCB.

beautiful enclosure ...

I searched onshape for several things like frankenso, rusEFI, etc. I could not find it at onshape. Should I be able to find it at onshape? If so can you share a link? I would like to like it over there.

So I guess now I'm going to need to do the 3D thing to the Frankenso board. You should be able to find the frankenso board at onshape now.

Thanks for some good feedback!
try this link: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fff7bf662536212b37375fe8/w/32c5481e111d974dce958032/e/438f13f62a64064e854f6fa9

Any ideas about the LCD?

RadMx5 wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:13 pm

Also I have a little problem with the LCD screen, the third and fourth lines don't display correctly.

I do not follow. The picture provided appears to be correct. What is not displaying correctly?

I found the below photo here: https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1301&p=27691&hilit=lcd#p27691
It shows the correct menu display.
On my LCD those lines seem to be shifted to the right, and I donn't know why
My LCD below:

Your connector looks a bit different but should be standart protocol. Could be I am not following the specs precicesly and for your variation it matters?

No idea is what I am trying to say

In the datasheet for yours, I do not see any claim that it is HD44780 compliant. I believe the one used on Frankenso, is HD44780 and should work with other LCD's that are HD44780 compliant. Perhaps you can find the variation from the below vs your datasheet.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitachi_HD44780_LCD_controller

In a quick look I see some variations, noted below.
Hitachi_HD44780 then yours
-- enter mode set 37uS your is 38uS.
-- Cursor/display shift 37uS your is 38uS.
-- Several others are 37 vs 38us.

I see on Faranell's page, this note

On board controller SPLC780 or equivalent (HD44780 derivative)

At the below, I see someone making claim that the SPLC780 different timer was causing problems.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/lcd-hd44780-vs-splc780d-whats-the-difference-good-large-lcd/

A google search for HD44780 SPLC780 problem produces many hits. To me it appears the SPLC780 is a slower version of the HD44780. I would say look at those timings and see what you find. Also perhaps test it with a shorter cable. The cable is also adding some timing delays.

From the below link
https://rusefi.com/docs/html/lcd___h_d44780_8cpp_source.html

I see Can you compile the code? If so you could try some modifications to this part of the code. If you find that changing the above 40 to something like 45 fixes the problem, I'm sure @ would be happy to make some changes. It appears he was developing against the D44780 Wikipedia page.

Can you compile the code?

I'm not able to compile the code yet, have not prepared my PC for firmware coding yet... I need to sort my PC out anyway


I have downloaded the latest bundle yesterday, I've uploaded the firmware this morning, and noticed the alternator does not charge, all the setting are as they were before. It was working on the previous version of the bundle. I have also noticed some extra options for battery charging.

Does anyone else have this problem using the latest bundle?

Thanks!

What version were you running before? I do not remember any changes around anything battery or alternator-related for quite some time.

https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Debug_fields is a not so user-friendly way of getting additional visibility into what is the firmware doing, one of these modes covers alternator control.

Hi, how's your car running ? im planning to upgrade my MS2 on my turbo 5 im a bit afraid about trigger problems ! I think I would put a Schmitt trigger between the signal and the CPU. It would clean the signal! Also I plan to use oem 36-1 trigger wheel if a sort out how to configure it( if it is even possible)
about MAP sensor how do you wired it? It outputs 5v at Max pressure how did you converted the signal? For alternator control I saw you had it working! Great ! Less mess in Proto area

I wasn't here for a while!

russian:

What version were you running before? I do not remember any changes around anything battery or alternator-related for quite some time.

If I remember correctly I have just uploaded the same firmware again and it worked, but I have no idea what could cause this, it doesn't matter now

atntpt:

Hi, how's your car running ?

My car is in parts now... but it was running good. (apart from cranking the engine...) The engine needs some attention now.
I'm rebuilding the engine (not completely just new piston rings and cleaning everything). I will be getting all the turbo parts shortly.

The engine is out and while it's out I thought to fix the rusty chassis, remove some unused components from the engine bay, and clean the subframe.

atntpt:

It outputs 5v at Max pressure how did you converted the signal?

Don't worry about the 5V signal as the MAP sensor goes through this opamp circuit shown below, and as you can see at the output of the op-amp circuit there is a voltage divider. The Max 5V signal gets divided to 2.5V and that signal goes to STM controller. (kb1gtt please correct me if I'm wrong)
The MAP sensor settings I''m using are predefined in TunerStudio.
So you just select the MAP you use:
Here is the schematic I've used on the Frankenso side: atntpt:

about MAP sensor how do you wired it?

In the engine bay, if I remember correctly I simply used the original MAF wire as a signal Input, Ground also from MAF harness, and 5V supply from TPS.
So, I have two plugs, when I use stock ECU I unplug MAP and use MAF, and vice versa.

I hope this helps a bit

Some photos from last weekend:
The subframe and rest of the front parts have been sand-blasted and now waiting for powder coating.
I'll upload some photos once I get everything together

Little progress...

Subframe with new poly bushes is in the car now, resprayed engine bay as well for fun
Need to finish relocating the wires on the other side and it should be ready. The engine is not ready yet...
I have de-powered the steering rack and I can tell the steering wheel is easy to spin but there is no engine in the car yet

I managed to do only two pics, as the phones battery died
The challenge will be to keep it clean after it's all done

Hello!

There is some progress I just received the TD04 Turbo !

It takes so long because I do so many different things at the same time... but it slowly starts looking more like a drift car.

Will reroute the coolant line, you can see on those photos I have removed the front thermostat line completely and modified the coolant flange so I can still have my heating working I'll get some ebay pipes and tubes to connect it all to the radiator.

There are a few things left to do:
- get new trigger wheel (36-1) from Mazda Protege
- get new spark coils for sequential spark (COPs - Coil on plug)
- fit oil temperature and pressure gauges,
- Wire up new knock sensor,
- Change the engine wiring slightly (tidy up),
- Make new fuel line,
- Make new intake manifold,
- Exhaust manifold for turbo and down pipe,
- Connect oil lines to the turbo (using back cylinder head oil pressure output)
- Connect water lines to the turbo,
- finish hydraulic handbrake line,
- maybe new aluminum radiator...

Love orange under the hood, or is a bonnet?

Thanks russian!

The hood (North American English) or bonnet (Commonwealth English excluding Canada) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hood_(car) So, I don't care, whatever!

I'm getting closer to crank the engine, if I get lucky it will happen this week.

I have downloaded the latest bundle, and it seems like you removed the "invert signal" feature from tuner studio for crank and cam inputs ...
So I can't use the op-amp setup anymore...

But maybe that's even better because I had some weird trigger issues in past.
I have just ordered the MAX9927 dedicated crank/cam interface chip, so will use it when it arrives.

Also I have added the Knock sensor interface. I want to use it just as an indicator while mapping.
What is the best way to set it up?

I have also ordered the D585 Ignition coils , and will run Wasted spark instead of Sequential (less mess with the wiring...)

Will post more photos and maybe a video later
Anyway, I hope the engine will start...

RadMx5 wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 30, 2018 11:24 am

I have downloaded the latest bundle, and it seems like you removed the "invert signal" feature from tuner studio for crank and cam inputs ...
So I can't use the op-amp setup anymore...

It was not removed, I rarely remove features. It was moved to the section where trigger physical inputs are defined.

Thanks. Ive found it

I use the latest bundle.

In tuner studio in the "test I/O" tab the "Idle Air Valve" is not working... when button pressed nothing happens.

In rusEFI console, when I bench test the Idle Valve by pressing the "Test" button, I get very little signal out. I have tested all the low side drivers on the PCB and they seem to work.

By default on the PCB, PC13 pin is connected to Q404 low side driver, so if I use pin PC13 to drive injector, and I bench test it in rusefi console or tuner studio it works. This proofs that PC13 pin and the driver are ok.

When I use any other available pin to drive the Idle Valve and I bench test it I get very low signal, that is not able to activate the low side driver.

Please could anyone do an I/O test for the "Idle Valve" in tuner studio and rusefi console using the latest bundle to check this bug?

Cranking no good, but car fired up for the first time (I didn't record a video) and unexpectedly is even idling.

Looks like only the bench test is not driving the idle valve what made me think the idle valve is not working. You must of made some changes to the firmware as the idle valve seems a lot quiter and better

Ill take some pictures tommorow, and upload logs. I can go to bed now...

That's some good news. Well look forward to a video. Congratulations.