[rusEfi] 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

What engine are you torturing? Is it inside some car?
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Sun Dec 30, 2018 5:15 pm

@, I have 5V steadily between the ground and power wire at the tps connector
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I have 4.8 ish V between the power wire and the signal wire. Does that sound right?
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Here’s a pic of the back of the board. I went ahead and installed tall of the filter capacitors. Signal misbehaves still.
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by puff » Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:17 pm

First, I'd examine all the pins in that area under a magnifying glass (inp5 - is it soldered okay).
Then I'd check if the input signal is constant on the board (inp5).
I'd disconnect the sensor from the board and attach an AA battery to ground and signal pins of the pigtail to see if the signal is consistent. If not - I'd try to reroute it to another channel (of the same chip or even to another chip, if there are spare inputs)

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by puff » Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:23 pm

On the other hand, you seem to have stable 0.2V voltage on the signal pin (why not 0V?), which probably means there might be troubles after the mcp chip. is there an opportunity to disconnect the mcp chip from discovery and feed 1.5V from AA battery directly to disco board?

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by mck1117 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 10:30 pm

What's the resistance of the TPS itself?

Can you measure all six of these resitances?

GND to 5v, closed
GND to 5v, wide open
GND to signal, closed
GND to signal, wide open
5v to signal, closed
5v to signal, wide open

Also see if it has any 'dead spots' or discontinuities in its sweep.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by kb1gtt » Mon Dec 31, 2018 11:25 am

In the picture I see several missing capacitors. Can you install those and re-take the picture?

I suspect your DMM is around 1Meg+, and you are connecting 5V to GND via 500k pull down. I suspect that is why you see the 4.8V instead of 5V. I think there is a 0.2V drop across the 500k ohm.

Can you connect a voltage source between GND and this signal pin? Perhaps a AA battery, or similar. Let us know if that measure the consistent or wanders.

I suggest caution with front probing a connector. That can damage the connector, which is a real bugger to fix. I suggest measuring the ECU pins instead.

Can you answer my other questions? It is difficult for me to provide better suggestions with out more data.
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Tue Jan 01, 2019 11:02 pm

Sorry for the delay. I got a little distracted and decided to fix my oil leaks...

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Tomorrow I will button the rest of this up and start troubleshooting rusefi again.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by Thommm » Wed Jan 02, 2019 7:32 pm

You could also put the DMM in current sensing mode and connect it to Gnd - signal and also 5V - signal. See how much current flows when forcing a voltage, should be very low.

Another possibility: one lead of the DMM to the TPS side of the wiring, other DMM lead to the pin on the opamp on which the signal enters (+ the resistance of the supply wires)

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Tue Jan 22, 2019 7:43 pm

Bit of an update. I will be troubleshooting the everything on the board as far as TPS signal goes sometime this week, but I'm not super worried about it currently.

I finished the all my maintenance and of course jumped the gun on turbo install. The car is running.
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Exhaust clip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lAa7iaQGjU


Now on to the questions for my fellow VVT miata owners @ and @...

Ignition Timing:
I noticed some large discrepancies between stefan and russians ignition timing, any reasons?
Stefans:
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Russians:
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And heres the DIY Autotune Base map timing for a 99-00 car (9.5:1 compression instead of 10:1 so I'd want to take out a few degrees)
99-00Timing.png
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Tachometer:
I can't seem to get the Tachometer to work? I installed the 5V jumper on the HiLo driver, does it need 12V? Are you using Tachometer output or Dizzy output?

VVT: I installed the Flyback diodes, stripe facing 12V, on the IAC and VVT solenoids. IAC works, but I cant get anything for VVT? Can you post the settings you're using for VVT? It's uses the FSIO Table 1 correct?

Heres my current tune if you want to take a look. I started with Stefans map first.
CurrentTune.msq
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata

Post by russian » Tue Jan 22, 2019 11:27 pm

russian wrote:
Thu Dec 27, 2018 1:25 am
Hello and welcome!

Have you seen

https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title ... Miata_2003
https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title ... Miata_2001
https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/blob/m ... ta_vvt.cpp - you can use rusEfi console to get same exact settings as I have on my red test mule using set engine_type 55 command
?
alternator exciter would be one of the +12v pulled-up high side transistors
actually it's set engine_type 47 on red car.

More importantly, both console and latest rusEfi Tuner Studio projects have "presets" buttons - you can click the button and get my exact configuration.

I need to do my best and take a picture of my current red car board hopefully it would answer VP question, do not remember a bit far from the car right now.
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Sat Jan 26, 2019 2:00 am

@, Car is running good now, and i've compared your settings on engine type 47. I'm a little confused what the VVT Offset value does?

Edit: Good is a generous term. VVT still not working.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by russian » Sat Jan 26, 2019 2:11 am

vvtOffset is the angle between cam sensor and VVT zero position.

With VVT actuator disconnected and VVT in fully closed position, you adjust vvtOffset to see zero VVT position gauge.

It's a big mystery to me why is this angle so different between the few engines I've tries this on, I do not have an explanation for that.

Step 1: get a good vvtOffset to get a good zero with electrical plug disconnected.

Step 2: confirm you have a diode similar to IAC setup

Step 3: try aux pid0 p=i=d=0 and different offset values to confirm that you can move your VVT actuator at all.

Step 4: help us understand what exactly is going on, maybe shoot a video and upload to youtube?
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:37 pm

Thanks so much!
I will try all that later today and then post an update.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Mon Jan 28, 2019 3:54 pm

Great news, the offset value was the only thing wrong. I think it was at 110, possibly from stefan's tune, but at 72 (much closer to russians) it worked perfect. Im gonna play with the PID values now and the target table to see if i can make it even better.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:01 pm

Little bit of an update. Ive been driving it for 5 or so days with boost. I was decently satisfied with how it was running, it just seemed slow.

Heres a couple things to note:

Cranking: The charge angle setup does not work at all (probably because my trigger wheel doesn't have a high enough resolution). Using fixed dwell of 8ms while cranking solved almost all my starting issues.

Timing: Well, I set my base timing using "fixed timing" of 10 deg. I had to crank up my trigger offset pretty high. Well, while troubleshooting why my car was slow, I found that my crank pulley timing marks had slipped, and was about 10 deg off. Made new marks using a screwdriver down the spark plug hole to find tdc. I then experimented with fixed timing at 0 deg and 10 deg. Thats what is shown in this video. @ could this be a software issue?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c2-xCubLtU
I just went off of 0 deg and rolled with it. Car feels MUCH faster. I guess 10 deg of retarted timing makes a difference :lol:

VVT: Probably not unexpected, I had to recalibrate the "VVT offset" after the trigger offset was changed. VVT seems to be functioning very well.

Alternator Control: I played with this for a LONG time. finally got something thats pretty stable in steady state, but its not like OEM was..

Overall I'm pretty excited that its running so well now. cant wait to get the bigger injectors in and fine tine all my warmup settings and such. And getting the damn tach to work would be nice!!

Pictures for fun:
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by russian » Wed Feb 06, 2019 5:06 am

MgFoster wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:01 pm
Cranking: The charge angle setup does not work at all (probably because my trigger wheel doesn't have a high enough resolution). Using fixed dwell of 8ms while cranking solved almost all my starting issues.
These two things should not be connected, charge angle setup should work. Also have you tried "Enable faster engine spin-up"?
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by mck1117 » Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:18 am

The problem wasn't due to inadequate trigger resolution. The charge angle setup works as expected.

The problem is that charge angle is completely inappropriate under any conditions for anything other than an oldschool coil + resistor + points + distributor setup (which it isn't even necessary for). It's a great way to get 50ms+ dwell, which can auto-fire some coils that have a timeout to prevent overheating. @mgfoster was seeing uncommanded timing advance(and corresponding starter kickback) during cranking, which went away when switching to fixed cranking dwell.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by russian » Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:24 am

mck1117 wrote:
Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:18 am
The problem is that charge angle is completely inappropriate under any conditions for anything other than an oldschool coil + resistor + points + distributor setup (which it isn't even necessary for).
This could very well be true. Would you be available to change the default settings please?

FYI @ shares your surprise that these are default settings
FYI these settings just work for my green race car and red test mule.
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by russian » Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:25 am

PS: it would also be nice to add some relevant comments either into the code describing these settings or maybe to the TS project dialog?
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Sun May 26, 2019 8:03 pm

Big Update:
Been running for about 4 months since my last post. Car is running good. Starting has gotten better.

Took the car on a mountain run in North Ga. Got a little warm, but otherwise fine.
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Car overheated pretty bad.. Thermostat failure. Centering pin fell out :?: and didnt allow it to open
BrokenTstat.jpg
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Made an ECU case using @s file and attached the stock brackets.
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Case.jpg
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Then, I made a 750 mile roadtrip to Detroit from Atlanta because I got a summer internship at General Motors.
Had to stop and hardwire my second fan because it was getting warm. I need a bigger radiator!
Gasstation.jpg
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I got 32 mpg average on the highway though! Not bad for a turbo!
Roadtrip.jpg
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Roads were much worse than I thought when I got here, so I had to raise it and put on some different wheels :lol:
MichiganSpec.jpg
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Overall, pretty happy with it! Car runs just fine, only complaint is the ancient rx7 injectors I'm running, but thats my own fault.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by russian » Sun May 26, 2019 10:56 pm

That's some brave rusEfi usage :)

Thank you for trusting this enough.
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by kb1gtt » Mon May 27, 2019 12:00 am

Sweet, and great to see it's another long drive success story. Those are some great pics, and thanks for the note that we shouldn't leave out shell casing in the coolant system :)

Would you believe I've never used a Frankenso? I started the truck in the drive way and let it run for about 5 minutes. That's the extent of my hands on experience with the hardware. I designed the PCB, someone else built the PCB, then @ programmed the PCB. The development cycle has been quite an experience. I hope to resolve the hands on experience soon-ish. Once I sell the Prius, I plan to use that money to get a 96 Miata from my folks across town. I'm pleasantly surprised at how well the board has been working for people. I've had paranoia about thermal shutdown. I'm glad to see that even in a plastic enclosure with relatively low air flow, that you are not experiencing thermal shutdown. I'm glad I was able to make it that robust. So far we have proven out the design with long road tests in TX and GA.

Thanks for the update, and feel free to keep us posted. Have some good fun at GM.
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Mon May 27, 2019 2:28 pm

russian wrote:
Sun May 26, 2019 10:56 pm
That's some brave rusEfi usage :)

Thank you for trusting this enough.
Life is about the journey I suppose :lol:
kb1gtt wrote:
Mon May 27, 2019 12:00 am
I've had paranoia about thermal shutdown. I'm glad to see that even in a plastic enclosure with relatively low air flow, that you are not experiencing thermal shutdown. I'm glad I was able to make it that robust. So far we have proven out the design with long road tests in TX and GA.

Thanks for the update, and feel free to keep us posted. Have some good fun at GM.
As far as thermal shutdown goes, I think I have pretty well proved that it is just fine! Down under the dash it gets warm from the firewall and trans tunnel, and then when I turn the heater on my feet, it gets REALLY hot... So I don't think its anything to worry about!

Definitely get the miata! Sounds like a perfect Prius replacement to me ;)


@russian, we should have a "Buy and Sell" section of the forum to sell our RusEfi cars to people who are hopefully not scared of them :D

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by kb1gtt » Tue May 28, 2019 12:36 am

While Miata is cool, so goes my dreams of having a Vulcan Prius :D
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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by MgFoster » Mon Jun 17, 2019 1:52 pm

@russian, could we get support for Idle Up on an input with fan control?
My AC can stall my engine now if it kicks on at idle. Need to idle up when it comes on and turn on the fans.

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Re: 2001 Mazda Miata - Engine #46

Post by russian » Mon Jun 17, 2019 6:01 pm

MgFoster wrote:
Mon Jun 17, 2019 1:52 pm
@russian, could we get support for Idle Up on an input with fan control?
My AC can stall my engine now if it kicks on at idle. Need to idle up when it comes on and turn on the fans.
We kind of maybe have it, just do not have it documented :( Do you have your A/C compressor wired into ECU? Does it show up properly on TS indicators?
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