rusefi.com

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:40 am

If you aligned the via's with the Frankenso board, you could simplify the connecting wires.

Yes, that was my first thought also. But as I mentioned, this is a proof of concept board only. Maybe I had to switch to 4 layer that case. It's chepaer for the moment (+ have more flexibility)

Unfortunately I have no 3D for my connector. I found the footprint in Eagle format, it was imported to KiCad.

Here are the board files:
http://tabblog.net/rusEFI/wbo + idle motor driver.zip

tAB wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:22 am

Unfortunately I have no 3D for my connector. I found the footprint in Eagle format, it was imported to KiCad.

Do you have calipers? If you take LxWxH pictures, you can fairly quickly make a 3D model. I've often put things on a flat bed scanner, then imported the picture into onshape, scaled it until it had the proper LxW, and simply sketched my lines on that. I've done similar with side profiles. I also commonly put in critical dimensions or dimensions for what ever I can reasonably measure with calipers. The remaining dimension are simply eyeballed, and commonly are quite close to the real world.

I'll try to remember to take a look at this tonight when I get home from work.

Some suggestions,
-- Perhaps add some extra larger via's such that you have at least 3 points to use when screwing this to a board.
-- Perhaps add via's to the un-used pins in the harness connector, such that you can easily solder a wire to those pins if you desire it for some reason.
-- Perhaps add via's to the IC2 control pins. I think this could be directly driven by the rusEFI board, removing the need for that PIC.
-- I'm assuming your going LSU4.9, if so you could replace R9 and R12 with just a 301 resistor. As well you could replace R8 and R11 with one resistor.

Thank your for your checking and suggestions! The PCB is already in production so no chance to change it But will be fine for the first tests.

BTW, you mentioned the LSU4.9
Any experience with the cheap ones from ebay? (~30USD)

I do not have experience with the cheap ebay sensors. I think @ has been getting low cost ones from the salvage yard.

The non-bosch ones are either fake, or production rejects that snuck out of a different door in the factory. The legitimate Bosch ones aren't that expensive, only $60 or so. It's worth the $30 insurance policy to know that your AFR readings are accurate and you aren't going to blow up your engine.

Just arrived
Now I need some more time... All the passives are populated on Frankenso.

But I have too much projects in parallel...
Building rusEFI, doing a complete bodywork on my pickup. If it would not be enough, last week I bought my house which needs to be renovated...

As you are in europe you will be able to get perfectly good LSU 4.9 sensors from most VW TFSI engines, BMWs after 2008 and some of the ford EcoBoosts.

They seem to have a little keying tab on them when they are OEM sensors but a file will solve that.

Just look for the LSU 4.9 style plug and a 6 pin (5 wired) connection.

A junk yard trip will turn up a surprising number of them.