It's been a while...not sure where to start exactly.
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While I wait as I said I've been looking at ECU stuff. The ECU I have (enginelab.net EL129) lets you set it up to do literally anything you please. One thing I pleased was screen that shows me the MAP (manifold pressure) for each cylinder so when its time to sync the TBs I just pull up this screen and turn the screws until they are all reading 0 error, way easier than screwing around all day with an airflow gauge. I also use the data to let the ECU automatically adjust each cylinder's fuel mixture to compensate of TB sync errors so sync'd or not the engine runs pretty much the same which was one or my biggest concerns with 12 TBs. Pretty proud of that, so Yay me.
This is possible because I have I have a separate MAP sensors for each cylinder. on the multiMAP. With the ECU I'm able to look at the signal highish speed and pull individual cylinder data out based on crank position and rpm (higher rpm means more lag in the signal) and it works up to about 3500 rpm and idle/cruise manifold pressures.
The ECU only has just so many input pins to connect to and MAP is pretty critical so sending it in directly as 1 signal is reliable and simple....but that limits me on the cylinder data. What I'm working on now is entering the 21 century and using the CAN buss. I have a 12 channel analog input box that should connect to the ECU over CAN so my plan is to still send the main signal directly to the ECU as I currently do but to also send the 12 individual reading to the ECU via CAN and get the cylinder fuel trim working at all rpm and throttle positions.
Now understand the only thing I know about CAN is the word CAN which is mostly why the expander box has been sitting on the shelf for 5 years....I think it was $200 and 6 dedicated AN, 6 AN or HS out, pretty nice but NLA. Originally I bought it thinking I'd use it for cylinder O2 readings which is a more direct way to do everything I've been talking about but it really makes the engine look messy and each sensor has a heater that draws 2 amps I think ....hadn't really thought about it but that alone would eat 25% of what the alternator puts out. The big fuel pump pops 15A fuses, so its 20A, each injector 1A, so 12, each coil about 3-4A average so 30-40 there, fan is 20A I think.....and you see how driving at night becomes and issue. So no 12 O2 sensors seemed a good place to save power while making a much neater engine bay but reading the 12 MAP sensor seems a good enough substitute.