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Tambralinga wrote:This model engin F22 or H22 ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F_engine#F22B1

I have just realized how lovely is the stock O2 sensor positioned - looks like my 95 only has one, after the cat - and it's facing up. So it's between the exhaust pipe and the intake manifold, there is no chance I would remove it. I guess I would need to go with narrow-band tuning for a start

Any idea if the O2 sensor header is constantly 100% on or is it some sort of PWM duty cycle? Why does O2 heater wire go through the ECU?

in addition to pwm control, it may be used to throw out an error code should the efi find out any misbehaviour

Can you sniff the power signal to the O2? You would be able to see PWM if you sniff it.

Constant power on O2 heater - I will implement the logic to turn it on while the engine is running and not if it is stopped or cranking. Narrow band O2 signal is about 0.30-0.37 while the car idles and it "jumps" to 0.45 if I step on the gas while parked. Not a huge change in voltage, no idea how old this sensor is.

Idle Air valve PWM frequency is about 500Hz

The O2 is probably only on for 1 to 5 minutes. The exhaust usually keeps it hot enough, and the heaters are to get it warm quicker which allows worth while readings quicker. Once warm, the exhaust keeps it hot.

I think your spark is weak. When you do the plug on the side of the block trick it really should be blue not white. Also you can measure your voltage with low cost plug testers like these.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200581094_200581094?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Automotive-_-Automotive%20Diagnostics-_-29009&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=29009&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=29009&gclid=CJfVvff9mcACFSMLMgodOhsAkA

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/KD-Tools-2756-HEI-Ignition-Tester?vfsku=KD.2756&gpla=pla&gclid=CMOi5I7_mcACFSMLMgodOhsAkA



I would bet that with the adjustable voltage spark tester, you can't exceed 30kV as well I would bet you get intermittent spark with the HEI tester.

Nikita @Abricos has stopped by to troubleshoot the Honda. Looks like the engine is in pretty dull shape, these spark plugs were brand new 10 minutes ago:



I'll see what kind of testing I can do with this vehicle and probably will get rid of it pretty soon

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Nobody wrote:If 4-wire O2, than you measure current to know when it's heated up.

How many components are needed to measure current? Do we know the expected current when it's heated up? Can you please create a separate topic for this in the Hardware section?

Some great news: grounding VR negative wires have cleaned-up the noise!

Sorry about mangling the connector numbers, I bet if I told you the correct numbers from the get go, it would have gone much smoother. I'm curious, does it play nice with out R111 or R112 installed? Or should we care?

kb1gtt wrote:I'm curious, does it play nice with out R111 or R112 installed? Or should we care?

Let's decide not to care... Maybe in 2015

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Nobody wrote:

Narrow band O2 signal is about 0.30-0.37 while the car idles and it "jumps" to 0.45 if I step on the gas while parked. Not a huge change in voltage, no idea how old this sensor is.

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I think in this message @ have suggested that the O2 sensor is not well? I've just ordered a replacement.

Hopefully one day we will have another active user from the Chicago suburbs...

Voltage on a NB sensor is nearly worth less, you really need to look at it with a scope, and look at the duty cycle of the half way voltage. Granted it you have a really slow meter, it might be able to make a correlation from V to duty cycle, but I wouldn't bother with that, especially when you have a scope at arms length.

Sold to a kid who was confident he can fix the blown head gasket. I am sure the oil was nice when I got it but definitely coolant contaminated oil now. I really suspect the guys who have sold me this of cheating but we will never know for sure. Whatever.

Just for history - that's how Frankenso 0.1 was probably soldered. Probably because it was since used to run http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=696 but I believe no changes were made to the VR inputs.

Please note that input positive and negative was since flipped on the board - that lovely pin bending is not needed with newer boards.