[Success Story] Ford Festiva / Protege / Miata motor (#3)

[AndreyB]

We did weight this car a while back and I want to say 2200 without driver, or maybe with the driver? I am not sure

http://www.feoa.net/threads/the-escort-gear-ratios-thread.66007/ says 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev ratios are 3.307 1.833 1.310 1.030 0.795 3.166
205/50R15 tires.

[tigeryan]

Car weighs about 1600lbs, drivers were probably in the 200-250 range, probably use 225 as a safe number....car holds 10 gallons of fuel as well...

[tigeryan]

I thought we had seen the car weighing in at 1600, could be 1800lbs...

[Kyocmondeo]

I potentially see a couple options. The coil is connected to GND on one side, and signal wire on the other. If you remove the coil, there is nothing pulling that signal low. So you could potentially replace the coil with a resistor. I would say you can start by trying a 1k ohm, and work your way down to 100 ohms if you need to. Keep in mind that 1k ohms will dissipate up to 0.144W while a 100ohm will dissipate up to 1.44W. It it doesn't work with a 100ohm, then you could measure the resistance of the coil and insert a resistance that's closer to that.

Alternatively you could wire a small pull up onto the rusEFI board, then connect that directly to the tach wire, eliminating that igniter as well as the coil.

Is this the kind of resistor you are referring to?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dale-100-Ohm-10W-1-Precision-Power-Resistor-Aluminum-Case-Chassis-Mount-Option-/221461798201?hash=item339026dd39:g:n3UAAOxy38tTljaO

[Kyocmondeo]

Now there's a new issue with the Tach. Since we took out the distributor and replaced it with the cam position sensor the tach stopped working even with the coil hooked up.

Any ideas what's going on now?

[kb1gtt]

That one could work, same as the below. Keep in mind it will make some heat, so you'll want to connect it to some kind of metal to sink the heat and keep it cool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-DALE-100-OHM-25WATT-3-PH25A-18-THRU-HOLE-MOUNT-RESISTOR-/262469159704?hash=item3d1c618b18:g:lCQAAOSwFnFWED2G

I'm not sure what your tach is going to be, I would need to see a schematic for the dash to know what's on the other end of those wires. It might look for a higher voltage spike, but I'm not sure.

[Kyocmondeo]

That one could work, same as the below. Keep in mind it will make some heat, so you'll want to connect it to some kind of metal to sink the heat and keep it cool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-DALE-100-OHM-25WATT-3-PH25A-18-THRU-HOLE-MOUNT-RESISTOR-/262469159704?hash=item3d1c618b18:g:lCQAAOSwFnFWED2G

I'm not sure what your tach is going to be, I would need to see a schematic for the dash to know what's on the other end of those wires. It might look for a higher voltage spike, but I'm not sure.

The resistor came last night. Hopefully tonight I can try it. hopefully it works. If so I'll setup a micro computer fan or something to keep the resistor cool.

[Kyocmondeo]

[video][/video]

Latest Festiva running with the cam sensor and no Distributor.

[Kyocmondeo]

ok guys here's where I'm at with the Tach issue.

First according to the Russian I can just find the signal wire at the ignitor and connect that to a aftermarket tach to get a tach working which is ok.

But I really want to make the factory tach work. I believe my issues lies in the Cam Angle Sensor. I believe the distributor is sending a extra signal out on one of the wires the angle sensor is not doing any longer. Does anyone have the wiring information for this sensor. I'm thinking maybe I can jumper 2 of the wires to make the signal echo on the right wire. I could also be completely lost here. But that's my thinking simply put the cam sensor is not sending the signal for the tach to read.

thanks for all the help.

Also just in case anyone is interested. I've tested 2 cam angle sensors one from a 1.6 T1T48371 and one that is listed for the newer 1.8 motors T1T4917. From a running sound perspective using the cam sensor out of the 1.6 motor seems to have a crisper note to the engine as it runs and sounds like it's revving better. I plan on taking the car to the Dyno in the next couple of weeks I'm going to dyno each one to see if there is a true difference in them from a power perspective.

[AndreyB]

But I really want to make the factory tach work. I believe my issues lies in the Cam Angle Sensor. I believe the distributor is sending a extra signal out on one of the wires the angle sensor is not doing any longer. Does anyone have the wiring information for this sensor. I'm thinking maybe I can jumper 2 of the wires to make the signal echo on the right wire. I could also be completely lost here. But that's my thinking simply put the cam sensor is not sending the signal for the tach to read.

I believe your theory is wrong. By the way we have the schematics @ http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazda_Protege_1993 - the tachometer is on that schematics, right side in the middle, couple of inches above distributor. Tachometer runs on the igniter wire, not CAS wires - it's just that without the spark the magic is not happening and we still have not replaced the spark with a resistor the right way.

As the most ridiculous test (I hope it's safe) can you put the whole red coil and igniter back together and just put a spark plug into the red coil wire and see if that would help the tach?

But anyway - the "distributor output" wire which makes the aftermarket tach working should be the one to feed the tach, it's just the question of proper voltage and pull-down or pull-up.

[Kyocmondeo]

I believe your theory is wrong. By the way we have the schematics @ http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazda_Protege_1993 - the tachometer is on that schematics, right side in the middle, couple of inches above distributor. Tachometer runs on the igniter wire, not CAS wires - it's just that without the spark the magic is not happening and we still have not replaced the spark with a resistor the right way.

As the most ridiculous test (I hope it's safe) can you put the whole red coil and igniter back together and just put a spark plug into the red coil wire and see if that would help the tach?

But anyway - the "distributor output" wire which makes the aftermarket tach working should be the one to feed the tach, it's just the question of proper voltage and pull-down or pull-up.

My first question becomes how come the tach worked with no load on the coil before. So putting a spark plug on the coil makes no sense to me. We didn't need it before why would I need it now? I can try it but logically makes no sense if it worked before without it.

I'm going to work on the sniffer for the miss tonight and I'll come back to the tach this weekend.

[AndreyB]

We didn't need it before why would I need it now? I can try it but logically makes no sense if it worked before without it.

Was not the high voltage wire between coil and distributor a requirement to have working tach?

[Kyocmondeo]

We didn't need it before why would I need it now? I can try it but logically makes no sense if it worked before without it.

Was not the high voltage wire between coil and distributor a requirement to have working tach?

No after we melted down the cap on the distributor we taped up the end of the wire that was going to the distributor and tucked it away so it wouldn't arc to anything and the tach worked fine. it just needs the coil to be plugged in.

[AndreyB]

Another logic analyzer recording shows perfect signals in & out, yet @ reports a misfire. Firmware & hardware is the common part between these three or four cars with the issue. Different coils, different tunes.

[puff]

Which means either you are mistaken with the 'perfectness' of signals, or the problem is in hardware, on the path from logic outputs towards execution devices..

[Abricos]

It is normal ...?

[AndreyB]

OMG, you are right! That's not normal at all - that's an injector miss.

[Thommm]

That's some quality spotting work abricos! Likely the cause of our steady misfire I presume?

[AndreyB]

yep, thats our misfire and I hope I have fixed it yesterday

[AndreyB]

Looking forward the second rusEfi race

http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LNJ16/0084-DSCN1903.html
http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LNJ16/0085-DSCN1904.html
http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LNJ16/0086-DSCN1905.html
http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LNJ16/0087-DSCN1906.html
http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LNJ16/0088-DSCN1907.html

[tigeryan]

So we got thru the New Hampshire race with some minor issues:

Broke a clutch cable --- 20 minute fix
lost 2 bolts on a motor mount, which caused us to eat a v-belt, ended our day an hour early...

A car no fire on our first pitstop, car came in fine, fueled it and it wouldn't stay running, would start for 5-10 seconds and then stall, almost like the Mass Air wasn't sending the signal to the fuel pump to deliver fuel..pushed it back to the pits, popped the hood, wiggled some wires and the car re-fired, never did it again....no idea what happened there...

The motor itself ran great, we turned some really good laps...personally there were some cars I passed in the race that I have never passed before, which was awesome...

The bad, car contact with a PT Cruiser, so need to fix the bumper again and the door / fender,..Contact with a cone, more repairs to front bumper...3 spins, one in practice, 2 in the race....and one carved KIA pumpkin as a penalty....

To do's:
--- fix motor mount
--- get the car back on the dyno at some point to continue working on ECU tune
--- front limiter straps

[tigeryan]

PS. 649.6 race miles on the car @ New Hampshire...

[AndreyB]

Do you know if there are any videos on YouTube? I know there is smth at https://www.facebook.com/TeamEmoticons33

[tigeryan]

Drew is still processing the front facing cameras and I need to do the same with the rear facing camera...

[tigeryan]

Rear facing camera...

[video][/video]

[video][/video]

[AndreyB]

You guys are now even more famous! http://autoweek.com/article/diy/rusefi-open-source-engine-control-hardware-now-working-real-world

[stefanst]

Wow!

Congrats everybody. This is totally f-ing awesome.

Apparently Festivas rule

[kb1gtt]

Sweet article.

[tigeryan]

That is an awesome article...

Starting to assemble all our race videos here too

http://www.lemonswiki.com/team.cfm/1/

[Kyocmondeo]

rusEFI Survives the Chumpcar LifeLine 24 Hours of Virginia International Raceway

We Took the Little yellow festiva for the beating of a lifetime. 24 hours of highspeed action at Virginia international raceway. the rusEFI performed beautifully.

[video]https://youtu.be/znmHMBCUYcQ[/video]