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I would like to propose that we define standard configuration for the '90 to '93 Miata engine type 41 (and any other popular config's that are getting good momentum) and work toward stabilizing firmware releases for those. The NA1.8 Miata 94 to 97 is similar but different enough tti count as separate.

I'll post my configuration that works and hopefully we can start with that. There are some choices I made that may not be optimal, and I'll change what I can if we can settle on a standard.

https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/firmware/config/engines/mazda_miata_1_6.cpp

Latest tune - see http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=660&start=300#p23481

Here is my wiring chart.

And here is my poor job at wiring.

Here's that spreadsheet as google doc - you have edit, everyone else has view:

Q1: do we want to decide on external MAP?

Q2: your current setup

3J W48 - W52 add wire Wideband O2, added to unused pin PC3

can I convince you do just jump W48<>W48 instead? This case we have one less wire

// Frankenso analog #7 pin 3J, W48 top <>W48 bottom jumper, not OEM
engineConfiguration->afr.hwChannel = EFI_ADC_3; // PA3

Q3: can I ask you to move your cooling fan to PE5? The only reason for that is to be one tiny step closer to http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Default_Pinout picture

Q4: is check engine low-side or high-side on NA6?

W5 - W6 add jumper check engine light (not connected yet) PC9

probably would not work since PC9 is paired with PC7 which needs to be +5 to drive coils, and the bulb is probably 12v?

russian wrote:Q4: is check engine low-side or high-side on NA6?

W5 - W6 add jumper check engine light (not connected yet) PC9

probably would not work since PC9 is paired with PC7 which needs to be +5 to drive coils, and the bulb is probably 12v?

I'm not sure what CEL needs, I listed that on the config from what @thommm showed for his smurf setup.

I'll look into the other wire changes and see what I can do to make it more like the default wiring. I can't explain why I made some of those choices other than it seemed like a good idea at the time.

A bunch of the above makes sense to me. However I have some questions.

On the back I see some yellow wires for the LCD. However it appears you are not using the LCD and it appears the yellow wires are simply making connections that are already made. So I think these are not needed. I also see the resistor and diode connected to 12V. I suspect this is also not needed, as it appears to go to nothing. I suspect it was an experiment, which has passed. Am I correct that the yellow LCD wires and 12V resistor diode are not needed?

kb1gtt wrote:A bunch of the above makes sense to me. However I have some questions.

On the back I see some yellow wires for the LCD. However it appears you are not using the LCD and it appears the yellow wires are simply making connections that are already made. So I think these are not needed. I also see the resistor and diode connected to 12V. I suspect this is also not needed, as it appears to go to nothing. I suspect it was an experiment, which has passed. Am I correct that the yellow LCD wires and 12V resistor diode are not needed?

I am using the LCD. I replaced the LCD connection wires on the board with jumper strips and mounted the LCD external to the case for awhile. Desoldering those wires lifted off some of the pads and lost connectivity. The yellow wires are to repair the damage. This arrangement was clumsy to deal with, so I added a jumper strip on the LCD side to plug on to the board, and cut a hole in the top case to expose the LCD. The resistor and diode are my attempt at A/C control. I didn't finish that, but will need it soon since TX winter is about over. It's supposed to get to 85F today.

What's the resistor on input 5 and 6 about? Looks to be a pull down, perhaps we could install the SMT resistors for this instead of the one you installed. Is that something you expect would be required for other applications? Input 5 should have a 500k to ground on this for if the wire breaks. Perhaps we should install the same on input 6. Perhaps we should have a stronger pull down resistor.

Also I 'm assuming the green wire on the back is also a repair for a broken trace.

I'm thinking a small PCB could be made which solders over the W## jumpers on the front, which includes a location for a MAP sensor.

kb1gtt wrote:What's the resistor on input 5 and 6 about? Looks to be a pull down, perhaps we could install the SMT resistors for this instead of the one you installed. Is that something you expect would be required for other applications? Input 5 should have a 500k to ground on this for if the wire breaks. Perhaps we should install the same on input 6. Perhaps we should have a stronger pull down resistor.

Also I 'm assuming the green wire on the back is also a repair for a broken trace.

I'm thinking a small PCB could be made which solders over the W## jumpers on the front, which includes a location for a MAP sensor.

I mentioned the resistor in the wiring for TPS, 10K resistor to ground to reduce noise.
We talked about it here: http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=660&p=20898&hilit=10k#p20900
I put the resistor at the connector rather than change the SMT resistor.

Yes, green wire is another repair.