
RIP, yet another MRE
though not sure that your reasonoing is valid...
I'm not sure how much fault tolerance it really buys you; older port injection engines that I've looked at have had relays to control the +12V to the injectors, but this is just a mosfet. If you don't trust the low side mosfet to turn off, do you really trust the high side mosfet to turn off?Noxz wrote: ↑Thu Dec 02, 2021 7:38 pm5)
I believe Q3 and Q5 (sorry, I did a reinstall of my computer and I don't have my dev environment set up enough to actually pull up the schematic, so this is by memory and also looking at the boards [0.3] in front of me) are the VBat fets.. Basically the chip is setup into channels, and 2 injectors per channel. There is a fet for the Boost and the Battery voltage for each channel, and then a low-side fet for each injector, so you have 4 total per channel as the two injectors share the same Boost & Battery fets.. and I think the chip does some fault tolerance with this additional control.
There's a diode from the +12V to inj+ path anyways, D10 and D11 (well, half of them anyways). That's why I'm not sure what the point of the mosfet is. I wasn't able to find anything else directly referring to those two mosfets in AN4849.
If you get rid of Q3, then the inj+ voltage will always be 12-ish volts, which means inj- will elevate higher than if inj+ was at 0-ish volts (due to the other half of D10). I wonder if that could pump too much voltage/current/whatever into Vboost.During the Bypass phase, all the low-side and high-side switches are turned off. The current decays through the injector, the
diode connected to ground, and the diode connected to V BOOST for a fixed time (t BYPASS ).
No, but 63V is pretty common. I don't have any OEM ECU I'm willing to open, but I have two TPMS boards, one with a 35V cap and an older one with a 50V cap.mck1117 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 02, 2021 7:51 pm4) nobody makes a 60v rated cap, so you use 100v caps. Perhaps more importantly, you WILL get switching transients far above the target voltage, and you really don't want those transients poking holes in your dielectric in the cap. Look inside an OEM ECU some time, you'll see much higher voltage ratings than you think are required.