22mm Manhattan

[andreika]

Another option for inter-module connection: pcb edge connectors (like PCI-E):


Less solder joints and less assembly efforts, and still 1.1A current rating per pin, according to the specs...
Examples:
64-pin connector for $0.7: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-icc-fci/10018784-10201TLF/609-2026-ND/1002341
Or 52-pin TYCO: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2041262-1/A125147TR-ND/5431235

[Abricos]

3.0 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS AND SPECIFICATIONS
3.1 MOLEX DOCUMENTS
SD-45970-001
SD-45971-001
SD-46556-001
SD-46557-001
AS-45970-001
3.2 INDUSTRY DOCUMENTS
IPC-9701
EIA TS-1000
TELCORDIA GR1217
4.0 RATINGS
4.1 CURRENT
2.7 Amps
(Note: current flow restricted to 6 adjacent circuits in a given row)
4.2 VOLTAGE
240 VAC
4.3 TEMPERATURE RANGE:
Operating: -55°C to +125°C
Non-Operating: -55°c to +125°C
4.4 CHARACTERISTIC IMPEDANCE:
100 Ω - differential signal pairs
50 Ω - single ended signals
4.5 DIGITAL BANDWIDTH:
Differential signal pairs: up to 12.5 Gbps

45971-3185.JPG (26.21 KiB) Viewed 5838 times

45970-3185.JPG (73.81 KiB) Viewed 5838 times

https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/searay-series/10977
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/45970-3185/WM4968TR-ND/2038493
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0459713185/WM4964TR-ND/2038497

[Old Grey]

I have another DIY ECU, but I made it with a side mount internal adaptor PCB like the one above. I can run factory ECU plug, screw, etc, and probably even the MS Ampseal, without touching the ECU. It's just too versatile and compact to not be the best choice, and can make any unit PnP easily. You can even use the adaptor to directly solder wires to an single external connector that plugs to the OEM loom. Connector to connector, is easier and cheaper than connector to connector to wire to connector to connector.

Now the problems. Mine is a single row THT 90º header, and that makes it rather delicate so you have to plug in carefully. It gets bolted together after connection, so it ends up strong, but any lateral force bends/flexes it up. The other problem, like the pic above, is that there is wasted space in the butt connection. If I was doing it again I would use a std vertical header and and flip the adaptor PCB. This would cut length with the overlap, and still keep the height down. Hell you could put the header in the middle of the ECU PCB and have most of it overlapping, except for the actual plug, to make it even shorter.

I did buy a JAMA edge connector out of an arcade machine, but that has the extra length and extra height problem.

[kb1gtt]

If I was doing it again I would use a std vertical header and and flip the adaptor PCB. This would cut length with the overlap, and still keep the height down. Hell you could put the header in the middle of the ECU PCB and have most of it overlapping, except for the actual plug, to make it even shorter.

I think what you just said, was make a PCB which fits under or over the W## area of Frankenso. Then solder in a bunch of small header pins to connect it the two together. To help save space, the header pins do need to be in a straight line.

Also a picture is worth a thousand words. Even if it's paint or a picture of a napkin pencil sketch.

Another DIY ECU? Can or did you share it some where? Do you have pictures or similar? It's cool to hear about other efforts.

[Old Grey]

I don't know if it is too unconventional to flip the adapter and ECU connector, but mine is kind-of like this.

I also don't know if there is extra tall headers.


I was also thinking of a half hole castellated adapter module with the ECU connector, like a HC05 on it's PCB interface, soldered over a cutout on the main PCB. It doesn't add much height, but it does take up main PCB area.

[kb1gtt]

Small suggestion. You can flip it in the enclosure, so it does not need to flip the harness externally. You can install the connector below the ECU PCB, instead of of top. AKA where it would normally sit, simply elevate it and put the connector below it. There are lots of ways it can be done. I might suggest modeling it in ohshape.com to make sure it all fits up as you might expect. See below slightly modified version of your picture. Also keep in mind typically components are populated on both top and bottom of the PCB. The PCB doesn't really have a top or bottom. It's all just for reference. We do tend to put larger / heavier stuff on one side. The light stuff can stay stuck to the PCB when run through a reflow oven. So we put heavy stuff on one side, such that the MFG populates the light side, then reflows it. Then populates the heavy side and re-reflow's it.

adapter PCB flip-flipped.png (41.01 KiB) Viewed 5768 times

This extra tall header can get you started looking for an extra tall header.
https://octopart.com/9-146462-0-te+connectivity+%2F+amp-40535201?r=sp&s=E9qJkVC0TtCS6XS7vxIKAA

[AndreyB]

Just ordered https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/NUCLEO144_wing at elecrow - will start a thread about it once I have the boards.

[AndreyB]

So https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular is the new home for breakout board following the 22mm Manhattan style.

At the moment I can really used some KiCad help with https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/TLE7209_or_MC33186_H-Bridge_Breakout - please let me know if you have KiCad 4 skills or time to learn or $ to just pay someone to make it.

[AndreyB]

https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1522 as an example of the base board with https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=450&p=32907#p32907 plugged into it is the first implementation of this idea.

[960]

Two more modules for the project done

TLE7209 and TLE8888

TLE8888_Module_22mm.jpg (149.32 KiB) Viewed 5512 times

TLE8888_Module_22mm_B.jpg (136.44 KiB) Viewed 5512 times

TLE7209_Module.jpg (96.84 KiB) Viewed 5511 times

TLE7209_Module_back.jpg (91.2 KiB) Viewed 5512 times

[AndreyB]

Finally moving forward with this approach

[AndreyB]

Analog module tested

https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/Analog_Input_Module

[AndreyB]

TLE7209 tested https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/TLE7209_or_MC33186_H-Bridge_Breakout

It works either with a jumper wire, or with the proper diode properly mounted

[AndreyB]

Sweet this SPI SD-card module would work here nicely

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32763223573.html "Mini Data Logger Logging Shield Module Board For Arduino For Raspberry Pi Recorder Shield SD Card 3.3V Regululator"

typos like "Regululator" are no reason to worry right?

[AndreyB]

Matt and Jared have developed a 14 channel low-side module - https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/lowside - it was just send to fabrication.

[AndreyB]

Ola and Jared have developed cj125 WBO module https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/cj125_Module - it was just sent to fabrication.

[AndreyB]

Matt and Jared have developed a 14 channel low-side module - https://github.com/rusefi/hw_modular/tree/master/lowside - it was just send to fabrication.

This board uses dual-channel SO-8 driver which we are now using on a number of different designs. Actually at least three part numbers are interchangeable:

VNLD5090 90 mOhm / 18A
VNLD5160 160 mOhm / 3.5 A
VNLD5300 300 mOhm / 2A