rusefi.com

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hellen72 is a board for Miata NB2

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334064047907

This board has too many jumpers removed but still a very weird behavior on real vehicle. While that's not a legit jumper configuration it does not feel like adding jumpers would resolve this?

Progress https://github.com/andreika-git/hellen-one/issues/2

it's alive!



back to boring testing

Hellen72c will have a WBO module.
In order to simplify the LSU sensor wiring, we used a board-to-wire connector on the board: This is a XH series connector (XH-8A) with 2.50mm pitch and 3A current rated pins. We use double pins for the heater output and ground.
The best part is that JLCPCB has this connector in stock; actually, they have even two options: C146110 (white) and C37940 (black), over 10k+ total in stock. Of course, this is a wide-known connector type with lots of mating female connectors with wires on ebay and aliexpress:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Sets-XH2-54-8Pin-1007-24AWG-Single-End-15cm-Wire-To-Board-Connector/201846818384 Some of the sellers write "2.54mm" pitch, but that's not correct, it's actually 2.50 (anyway, all XH series have the same pitch). One should look for 24AWG or less wires, not 26AWG.
There are also versions with long wires (up to 30 cm):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JST-2-5mm-XH-8-Pin-Male-Female-Connector-plug-with-30cm-wire-x-10-sets/171346705538

Or versions with raw contacts for manual crimping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-8-Pin-JST-XH-2-54mm-Male-Female-Connector-Plug-fr-7S-Balance-Battery-charger/171988306208

Most go with both male and female connectors, though.

Will it be just one WBO (considering initial notion of 8 cylinders, which probably implies two banks of cylinders, hence, two WBO sensors)?

puff wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 14, 2021 8:20 pm

Will it be just one WBO (considering initial notion of 8 cylinders, which probably implies two banks of cylinders, hence, two WBO sensors)?

it's really designed as a miata pnp board, so two sensors is overkill

rev C. ordered https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hardware/Hellen/hellen72-c-schematic.pdf

Picture as received - JLC solders mini USB now! We just did not have time to change the board to use JLC SD card socket.

DFU button worked as expected

Auto-rotate is really odd, but more testing progress on wired board. Total success so far.

Delayed power off, something weird happens on power off. VSS/CAM/CRANK LEDs inverted



Scary stuff if ECU powered by USB



Soooo close to start but MAP does not read properly

R11 removal has changed MAP behavior - now it's showing closer to 100 kPa

Problem is it's showing more or less same 100 kPa even while cranking regardless of throttle application, that does not seem right. Sooooo close to fire up!

tune and logs https://rusefi.com/online/?vehicleName=H72+test&user_id=2

Nevermind that's all already covered by https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/2258

Once I've started running master instead of release things got way more proper in terms of power management - the delay is gone and USB does not confuse the ECU anymore.

Now we are back in NB2 Miata hall resistance hell. First three pages of https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1095 cover the drama which so far was worst with Frankenso/MAX9926. Looks to me like we have similar story here with Hellen72-c

Actual result, note broken 5-1-5-1 series on top line Expected - note different spacing on top line

PS: https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/2523 created

Signal GND 4O
Signal 3V, 3Y

pictured here is "wired" Hellen72-c with default 0R R3 and R4, with only CAM, CRANK, GND and MR control/MR voltage wires.

I've already attempted to run a modified "connector" Hellen72-c with 2.7K R3 and R4 and engine sniffer looked bad in same exact way.

Explain- what looks bad in that picture? I see the 1-2-1-2 on the cam and the 4 crank pulses in between.

stefanst wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 04, 2021 10:04 pm

Explain- what looks bad in that picture? I see the 1-2-1-2 on the cam and the 4 crank pulses in between.

Note how VVT has 5-1-5-1-5-1 events on engine sniffer, should be 4-2-4-2-4-2 - spacing is really weird.

I've realized that I need to take engine sniffer images without the "display logic representation" mode in settings.

R3=R4=2.7K board

one logic_level_trigger and few physical level

Unmodified board, just ~9 wires between Hellen and vehicle - no injectors no coils, smooth cranking

Same wired board with 0R resistors

Logic level VVT signal looks good.

I am worried about uneven spark cycle

So while I am fighting with NB2 trigger decoding we got things running on NA6

This USB connector is spaced a bit to clear the recommended case.

Default tune sparks both coils now, apparently it's MUCH easier to start a cold car on 4 cylinders than on two cylinders.





Unable to properly upload logs due to https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/2554

Miata ignition key seems to have an interesting "in between" position where the board behaves in a very special way:

Short video



Way longer video



https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Mazda-Miata-2002#starting--power

It's related to fuse #17 A/C

https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=499
https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?log=208

Tach no longer works I am confused.
Idle is way higher than expected.

Ill upload my latest tune tomorrow.

Tach settings are these
3O
Default
True
.5
2

My tach is have issues though. Any significant throttle and its spazzes out.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 26, 2021 2:00 am

Idle is way higher than expected.

According to the log, your TPS position is 2.6% which is higher than 2% threshold, that's why the auto-idle is disabled and the IAC valve is stuck at 89.95%. Even the REO says it's running, not idling

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 26, 2021 2:00 am

Tach no longer works I am confused.

Maybe because you changed the tach settings from 50%/50% to 4 ms duration?

andreika wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 26, 2021 7:10 am

According to the log, your TPS position is 2.6% which is higher than 2% threshold, that's why the auto-idle is disabled and the IAC valve is stuck at 89.95%. Even the REO says it's running, not idling

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/issues/2585

Even with recommended settings my tachometer is not working. Something tells me that I have to man up and hook up the osilloscope?

https://rusefi.com/online/view.php?msq=511

https://rusefi.com/online/diff.php?msq1=511&msq2=499&page=2