rusefi.com

While half of my cars are using this socket, another half uses the 121 pin like this http://rusefi.com/hardwave/368255-2/

Available at our store

Update: there are two version of this connector.
http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/368255-2
Also
http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/1241434-1

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/tree/master/hardware/Breakout_121pin_368255-2-Connector


See http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:OEM_121_pin_connectors

I just e-mailed a file. See attached picture of the connector.

It includes the PCB module with 3D and schematic symbol. I started a draft layout, however I ran out of time and I don't know the exact details you would look for. I think the files I'm sending are at a point where you can massage it into a breakout board.

I have finally opened the files you have emailed me - I've set the right module in the NetList and got the connector on the board. At some point we will need to finish the actual board, but the module looks ready and that's a large part of this.

The unfinished board is at https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/368255-2-connector/

%#!%, %$( @#@#@!!!

These 121 pins connectors are not all the same. Mini is compatible with Jetta VR6 but not compatible with Hyundai. Both made by AMP. Obviously I've only realized this after getting a Hyundai connector ready & soldering some wires. Anyway, at least I have a Jetta connector and it works. 3 hours wasted.



936274-1 is the one on left, the header is 368255-1.
368376-1 is the the right, that's the one compatible with Mini. Header is 368146-1 ? Probably not.

TE has amazing chat support, next time I would need to finally figure this out.

Thank you @ for the board design, order placed.

Cool is that the Mini Cooper connector?

kb1gtt wrote:Cool is that the Mini Cooper connector?

Yes.

It is half-cool, because the connector is made from unobtanium I would need to figure out a way to un-solder a used one. Any hints, considering there are 121 points of soldering?

I've heard claims that a propane torch to heat then whacking on a tree well remove component's.

Stick with a connector that is obtainable. It's cool to desolder one for your own personal car, but if you're looking for one to standardize the board around, it should be something that can be readily bought off the shelf. It's a shame decent connectors tend to cost more than the rest of the board usually.

The fun thing about this connector - my Nissan and my BMW (Mini) use it! Pretty tempting to use the stock harness as is, you know...

Yeah, I've done that.. Did that for the ECM connector in my '85 Dodge at one point. Worked like a champ..

Propane torch + vise + pliers. 20 seconds each.



It was a surprise that PCB gets soft if you heat it.

99% success!




We've missed the central plastic lock - this one:

@kt819a has added the missing hole.

I've found a source of the "Asian" kind of this connector. I also have a grinder, so I had successfully convinced a "German" style plug to click on an "Asian" style header. Do not mess with grinder owners.

See http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:OEM_121_pin_connectors

kb1gtt wrote:I've heard claims that a propane torch to heat then whacking on a tree well remove component's.

Unless it's a Chrysler Note how some pins stayed with the PCB.

Looks like the wired plugs are available, this way we get a sealed connection and enough pins to wire up anything:

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.0.0.f0PQpV&id=21391595948

That's $23 shipped within China


Also
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.0.0.tt5S9v&id=39846888865

Is that 140 yen = $1.20 USD?

kb1gtt wrote:Is that 140 yen = $1.20 USD?

China and Japan are not the same country exactly. If I recall correctly they are not even great friends.

http://www.xe.com/currency/cny-chinese-yuan-renminbi

it's Yuán, not Yen

Ah, so 140 transformer thingies = $23 USD.

The 'german' kind of this connector is actually available in the US:



Would be interesting to see how fast the number in stock would go down

I am new and sorry for anything I should have noticed already. I am looking for break out boards as pictured at the top of this post for the 121 pin molex ecu connector. I see that someone has designed one from this site, but im not sure how to use the file source or where I can send it to have the board made? thanks for any help pointing me in the right direction

I have a few of these, just listed them at https://www.tindie.com/stores/russian/ - https://www.tindie.com/products/russian/ecu-121p-connector-bare-pcb/

If you are not in the USA shipping price would be a disaster

Anyway, back to your question how to make your own batch: one of the links above would get you to https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/368255-2-connector/368255-2-gerber/368255-2-gerber.zip file.

"Gerbers" are these magic files you provide to a PCB shop to make boards. You can take that gerber ZIP file to https://oshpark.com/ or https://www.seeedstudio.com/ or any other PCB shop.

The board would be a 2 layer, would go as "under 5cm x 15cm", your call on color and thickness.

The source files are done in KICAD. If you are looking to make changes to the board, you can do the changes in KICAD. Or you can grab the gerber files and send them to a PCB house to have them fabricated.

Thanks all, I am going to send it off to seeestudio.

Hopefully 1 OZ copper should be enough even for the power side? I made it exactly 5cmx15cm. Also, I am trying to source an ECU enclosure here in the US to use with the 121 pin connector, if I cant find one, I guess I will grab an Altima ECU to use as a mock up before ordering 10+ from China later on.

I'm not sure if it was noticed / mentioned, I was looking into these connectors and found some info at some point.

Korean variant is much cheaper (at least at mouser). 1/3rd the price. eg 81p plug is $6 or something vs $20.

German variant has at least two subtypes. On motronic ME7.x for VW cars they use this to key things (eg. whether the car has wideband O2 or not, was one use. Maybe there are more).

here you can see the key



I'll look the ECUs I have and post the tyco part numbers for the two variants sometime.

What about PCB thickness? For example this specific connector board. Is the popular default 1.6mm the best thickness, or should it be maybe only 1.0mm? 0.8mm?

I don't think thickness matters that much. The connectors are reasonably strong with any PCB installed.