rusefi.com

$100 fully assembled 6x6 standalone with DBW and WBO.

https://github.com/rusefi/uaefi

Now waiting for wideband cables and pigtails to be manufactured.

Good job! Pretty interesting at this price!

Optional EGR or EGT?

jevgienij wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 18, 2023 8:09 pm

Optional EGR or EGT?

EGT, thank you for pointing out the typo!

it has passed testing https://github.com/rusefi/uaefi/issues/25 and it's now up for sale at https://www.shop.rusefi.com/shop/universal-control-unit

I'm currently following various topics on the forum, and I'm contemplating converting my classic car to run on an ignition-controlled ECU.
Initially, I'll stick with the stock injection system (K-Jet ).

My goal is to maintain the original look of the engine bay, so I plan to adapt the distributor with a trigger wheel.
Is this board suitable for use? I'm not a fan of the connector positions, for me will be better to have all pins on the same side. I might explore changing that.

Thanks for this fantastic project.

uaEFI is doing good! There is already one unofficial adapter see FB group. We've just merged preview of the official hellen-one module for uaEFI adapters see https://github.com/andreika-git/hellen-one/tree/master/modules/uaefi/

Hello I've made a simple box/case and lid with snap fit. It's real simple but should work ok
The board is fastend in with 4 m3 screws directly in the plastic And the lid is as mentioned snap fit, good tight fit so should not come loose.

I've only test printed in petg so I don't know if pla etc would work ( you have to test)
My print settings were
0.16 layer height
3 walls
6 top/bottom layers

Now working on first official adapter board so rev B had changes specifically for ease of adapter application

Kim has posted another enclosure on FB - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6498664

Hi,

2 question 's :

Q1, what is the purpose of the Optional Can 2? or better, when would i need it? any example?

Q2, i recieved my JDY-33 bluetooth, can i just solder it in? or does it need programming first?

thank you.

Q1: I do not know. What's the purpose of CAN 1 or even what's the purpose of rusEFI?

Q2: just updated https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Bluetooth with references to recently updated tickets about all that

Random suggestion while unfortunatelly things are not perfect

more mounting suggestions:

carrier board in a stock ECU case
able to close the cover:

pins into UAEFI molex connectors at almost straight angles:


for molex spacing, 3 pin connectors with middle pin removed:

hello,

what is the copper weight for inner and outer ? both 1oz ?

best regards

Atlantis2013 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 30, 2024 11:10 am

what is the copper weight for inner and outer ? both 1oz ?

probably, whatever is the default.

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 30, 2024 2:21 pm

Atlantis2013 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 30, 2024 11:10 am

what is the copper weight for inner and outer ? both 1oz ?

probably, whatever is the default.

default is 1oz for outter and 0.5 for inner

Hi

What componets do I need to populate CAN2 option? Cant find it in any BOM.

I'm really sorry for this question, I'm a beginner. I was able to see the different documents on the UAEFI. Concerning the VR conditioner, is it able to work well with the civic (or dizzy) igniter?

ludowrx974 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 18, 2024 11:37 am

I'm really sorry for this question, I'm a beginner. I was able to see the different documents on the UAEFI. Concerning the VR conditioner, is it able to work well with the civic (or dizzy) igniter?

yes search gives https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=49552#p49552

A nice enclosure https://github.com/Light-r4y/uaEFI_case

Looks like it works with the standard UAEFI (not the 121). Are they for sale for those of us who still don't have a 3-D printer? If so, how much?

AndreyB, the current UAEFI uses a TI SN74LVC4245APWR Logic Translator for U103. It is capable of sourcing and sinking 24 mA on the outputs. Spent some time and found a pin-compatible TI SN74LXCH8T245PWR capable of source/sink at 50 mA. I bring this up because I fried U103 twice trying to drive LS coils. Mouser single unit price for what you're using is $1.04, while the suggested replacement is slightly higher at $1.73. Here is a link to the data sheet: https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74lxch8t245.pdf?ts=1743163518629&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.mouser.com%252F

Out of curiosity I bench tested an LS coil logic circuit. I connected both grounds, but not battery voltage. Applying 5 volts to the signal drew less than 2 mA. I have no idea why LS coils burned up U103 two times.

Great news!

https://github.com/rusefi/uaefi/issues/78 and noted on https://github.com/andreika-git/hellen-one/issues/378#issuecomment-2764559502

Nice video