rusefi.com

Pig tails are handy, such that you can sell a generic harness with like 15ft (5M) of cable. Then the installer cuts injector wires to length, and terminates only the injector side of the connector. It also avoids the need for an installer to have the crimp tool for this connector. The installer only needs the crimp tools for the other side of the harness.

I see the SUPERSEAL 1.0mm 60 pin costs like this.
$20.39 6437288-5 PCB connector includes pins
$6.30 4-1437290-0 34 pin Harness connector
$8.20 3-1437290-7 26 pin Harness connector
$14.40 = $0.24 * 60 of 3-1447221-3 Harness pins
$49.29 total or $0.83 per pin.

OEM crimp tool is 2305570-1 at $189

I recall that Mate-N-Lok was around $0.30 per pin, but is not as good of a connector. I also recall it's easy to get CPC's around $3 per pin. So this is a decent price for a quality connector. I would prefer an option for gold plated connectors for signal level connections. I have not found gold plated contacts for this connector yet.

I am really starting to like that 121 pin connector - it's weather-proof, it's available new and cheap, it's popular and used pigtails are plentiful at junk yards.

Unfortunately Bosch cases are pretty short - on the other hand these are thick, we can go vertical to some extent, but really short

Nissan cases are much bigger but these are low-profile. I probably need to get a nissan case next time I am in a junk yard.

How about mounting the ECU on an aluminium plate, then potting what ever shape we want. Basically make a silicon mold, assemble the board, place it in the silicon mold. Then pour in something like technomelt, and wait for it to cool down.

https://www.technomelt-simply3.com/en/pcb-markets.html

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 01, 2019 2:49 am

How about mounting the ECU on an aluminium plate, then potting what ever shape we want. Basically make a silicon mold, assemble the board, place it in the silicon mold. Then pour in something like technomelt, and wait for it to cool down.

https://www.technomelt-simply3.com/en/pcb-markets.html

It seems my boards are constantly changing and evolving. Potting would be adding a lot of time for removal for each change....

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 01, 2019 2:49 am

How about mounting the ECU on an aluminium plate, then potting what ever shape we want. Basically make a silicon mold, assemble the board, place it in the silicon mold. Then pour in something like technomelt, and wait for it to cool down.

https://www.technomelt-simply3.com/en/pcb-markets.html

its not cheap ...

Abricos wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 01, 2019 3:24 am

its not cheap ...

Do you know a source? I'm ignorant about the costs, and I have not found a supplier yet.

stefanst wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 01, 2019 3:14 am

It seems my boards are constantly changing and evolving. Potting would be adding a lot of time for removal for each change....

I think developers are constantly making changes, while the PnP crowd doesn't want to make changes. Also this Technomelt is basically hot glue. You can remove it with heat. AKA toss it in a toaster oven, and melt if off. I'm not sure how well it's removed, but it can probably be done.

Also you could make a shell, instead of potting the entire board. Basically 3D print or make some kind of enclosure. Use that enclosure to make a soft mold. Then you can inject this stuff to make copies of that original. Below is a video showing how to do this with a 2 part epoxy used as a casting materiel. I think that 2 part epoxy is a bit pricey, and I think that technomelt is lower cost, but require heating.


Of course, making a 3D printed case is always an option. Have we checked the costs at https://www.shapeways.com/ or similar?

I did some tests ...
still need to do tests ...
check how solvent resistant ,gasoline,motor oil , temperature.......

I would like to make a small catalog of interesting OEM cases but what do I call them?

For instance this one - stamped aluminum 171x128mm cases is used by Bosch and Siemens, with 80 pin and 121 pin.

What do I call it? VAG_171_128 type based on popular usage and size?

what about height?
may be by vehicles? (easier to find the right junkyard)
speaking about those stamped designs - what's the way they fix the board to the enclosure? just with a connector? or they have studs attached to the boards?

ME7.8.8 enclosure for 81-pin connector:
Available new at aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Electronic-Control-Unit-Accessories-ECU-cover-car-engine-computer-shell-ME7-8-8-ECU-140-80/32810392033.html

"Electronic Control Unit Accessories/ECU cover/car engine computer shell/ME7.8.8 ECU 140*80*27MM No connector included" $20

For my project, I have already decided on the type of case. The choice was obvious after a trip to disassemble cars. I took the ECU Siemens MS41.0. It cost me UAH 500, which is about $ 17. They are simply not needed by anyone in my city, their mountains. In addition, I have a native connector (Siemens / Bosch). Considering the concept of hull search for RusEfi, I would study the issue for manufacturing a matrix for casting ABS plastic with the top cover of an ECU, and close the lower part with a simple aluminum sheet. Either contacting the Chinese and ordering a batch, which, under the conditions of the international series, will not be very budget, but no one bothers to ask a question to several manufacturers. If none of you worked with the Chinese, then I think I can turn to my friends who are supplying spare parts for the Korean car market, they worked with the Chinese and at least give directions to whom to look for or what to look for, of course, if necessary. Just let me know if my option is interesting.
As for individual projects, it is best to use OEM wiring, which already has connectors. Missing wires can be independently diluted.

YUEQING HAIDIE ELECTRIC CO.,LTD is a Chinese manufacturer of connectors, they seem to produce their version of many popular connectors. They also produce a few enclosures integrated with connectors - for instance 48p plastic case https://yqwakan.com/product_4882_48pECUAluminumEnclosureBoxwithCaseMotorCarLPGCNGConversionKitsControllerAutoConnector.html and 39p https://yqwakan.com/product_4881_FCI39PinsECUwithAluminumboxAutoConnectorVehicleControllerMountingPCBCarAutomotiveconnector.html

48p option costs under $20 for box + male + female connectors

Attached are the datasheets they have shared over email. Is this too large or is this perfect for rusEfiMini motorcycle option?

48p box-2 uses HD481-1.5-21

Oh la la. You should warn about not safe for work content I got excited and started humping my desk.

Do they offer a 3D model?

It looks like they sell on aliexpress.com too, which is handy for small quantities:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/ECU-Enclosure-Box-Series/1556418_511010726.html?spm=2114.10010108.100008.4.71d74223d2lVSg

Found my dream case! The search for a case is over

BS01 by Wenzhou Boshun Electronics Co., Ltd.
comes with 8-1393476-0 80 pin connector https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:OEM_connectors#80_pin + harness connectors + terminals.
8-1393476-0 plastic shape is compatible with 121 pin connector.

Under $30.

HUGE case. See comparison where it's taller than 121 Nissan case and wider than 154 pin direct injected VW case. See picture where discovery boards fits under Frankenso board and both fit inside the case easy.

For smaller cases see https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1538

That case looks interesting. Do they sell 1 single unit or do you need to buy in bulk? They are on Alibaba but seems that I cannot buy there.
One thought though, how is the connector quality with these Chinese units? I'm looking into the modICE case as well. A case with 48 pins, complete with all connectors is about $80 from Mouser. More expensive but from a reputable seller and waterproof.

And of course I forgot about the TVA . Was actually ordering this case, but this is getting too expensive @ about $100 .

Don't forget your crimp tool(s) as well don't forget your special tools for opening the enclosure. I recall the smallest enclosures don't need the special tools, but most modICE will need special tools.

right now we have sooooooooo many boards we have to stop designing new

right now we need to move software or documentation or adoption, not HW

I think that there is mainly a need for Plug-and-Play (PnP) adapter boards to match specific engine connectors.

Perhaps if there were a loose standard we could encourage people to put their efforts to creating PCB layouts (Gerber files) converting from their preferred engine connector to a standard low-cost connector And then wiring harnesses from that connector to one of the existing RusEFI ECUs.

The connector wouldn't need to be weatherproof, but it needs to be automotive quality for vibration and temperature. It should be readily available and use an inexpensive crimp tool.

If it's not only about the connector, but about the whole enclosure, I'm afraid there's nothing left for people but building their own boards. It's a bit annoying, but you can live with that.
Besides, imho building boards for many people seems much less complex and much more feasible than adding new software features.

Technomelt is a common potting material for automotive applications. It melts like how glue and very chemical resistant. Toaster oven would melt it just fine. Also it's not a carcinogen. You can also get it were it phase changes at say 150c. Aka it could take many watts to exceed 150c preventing over heating.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/about/our-brands/technomelt.html

I have designed this enclosure, and a chinese mfg might be interested in opening a mold to sell them.

PNP are easiest done with adapter harnesses.
A bunch of wires, with female pins crimped in each end are the way it's usually done.

Put the female pin at the ecu header pin, solder and crimp isolation around.

Do you plan for this to be IP67 or similar? I wonder about the water resistance of the USB. As well if they are surface machining a mold, perhaps adding an o-ring groove could make for a nice water resistance feature.

I like the entire you don't see bolts thing. That makes it look clean.

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 15, 2019 5:15 pm

Do you plan for this to be IP67 or similar? I wonder about the water resistance of the USB. As well if they are surface machining a mold, perhaps adding an o-ring groove could make for a nice water resistance feature.

I like the entire you don't see bolts thing. That makes it look clean.

I think the usb should just be a remote connector. There's no point on having it on the box, this way you can have the case inside or on engine bay, but always have the connector inside near glove box, ashtray, whatever you want. This way it's reliable(no weird connections) and weatherproof. That's how I plan to do on microrusEfi when I install it, since it's ready for it.

Canbus would seem like the desired solution for communications.

http://www.kinkong-connector.com/wap/productsdetail/696.html



Looks like tyco 73 pin connector .
Any thoughts?

Would love to find an enclosure to use the molex mx123 connector and PCB header

Harness side of this connector with wires installed cost how much?

Those connectors are pretty common. GM gen4 (2005+) v8 engines use those connectors, I think.

The other consideration with those connectors is that you have to solder the connector once it's installed in the case - so you can't remove the board or access the top side if it's installed in a case.