[info] Frankenso - ECU shield compatible with OEM case / official

[stefanst]

... the second line should read 'with'?

Correct.

[kb1gtt]

This confuses me. This post snippet notes "without"

Frankenso board without stm32 on the car: periodic noise,

However the picture name seems to indicate it's "with" the STM that causes noise.

Does the noise correlate to the STM being installed?

[stefanst]

We only had the ripple (noise) with the discovery board installed in the frankenso. There was not ripple on the frankenso board itself after removal of discovery board. Also, running the discovery board by itself and just pulling the pin to GND with a 5k resistor there was no ripple on that pin.

The only conclusion to me is that plugging the discovery board into the frankenso board turns something 'on', presumably something running PWM and that causes a little ripple between +12V and GND or in the opamp circuit (less likely). Please note that +5V did not show the ripple. Should have probably checked frankenso GND against battery GND directly. Will do next time

[kb1gtt]

Next step would be to look at the signal with the software set to AC mode, this will remove the DC and allow you to zoom in on the signal. When you do try to check the frequencies. Each frequency can give away the source. For example I recall the 5V switching regulator is around 40kHz to 55kHz depending on what China happened to produce. If you see that frequency, it's likely that the 5V load is turning on the switch regulator which is drawing short spikes of current. Even though it's a short spike of current with a small average current, it can be a large pulse. If you are seeing such a ripple, I would think the wire connecting it has some kind of poor-ish connection.

Any how, if you can get me a zoomed in copy of that signal, I might be able to point a finger at a weak point.

[stefanst]

Didn't think of AC mode for measuring DC - duh!
All I have is screenshots. So no resolution. I doubt it's the 5V regulator since that should also be running with the discovery board removed.

From the image we can see that the ripple period looks just a hair longer than the minor divisions. Timebase was set to 200ms/div. So we get a frequency of 50Hz or maybe a little less.

[kb1gtt]

The AC mode removes the DC and allows you to see the AC ridding on top of the DC signal. What you have is zoomed out so far you can't get any real data out of it.

[AndreyB]

Just wasted two hours troubleshooting MAP sensor in analog channel #9. Swapped sensors, tripple-checked wiring... I've totally forgotten about JP9 & JP11, these were not populated on any of the assembled in China boards.

Improved the wiki picture:

[AndreyB]

@ reports an error on top page of schematics pdf

119) "PB1 reset defaults" actually it's PD6

Actually PB1 used to switch between text and binary protocol, reset defaults was always PD6.

See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Software:User/en#Configuration_reset

[kb1gtt]

I have this as 120, not 119.

Just to make sure I understand this, it's a comment change on the schematic, not a wiring change, is that correct? Should it look like this?

[AndreyB]

Just to make sure I understand this, it's a comment change on the schematic, not a wiring change, is that correct?

Yes, only the comment change. I am not aware of any other issues.

[AndreyB]

Tell me when to grab that new .pdf

For a bare bones Miata ECU we do not need MAX9926 do not need TPIC8101 do not need FT232 - which leaves injector transistors as the most expensive part on the board which makes me wonder how to make it cheaper. Maybe use cheaper transistors at least for fuel pump / check engine light / radiator relay fan control? Is there a cheaper direct replacement component which would work for relay or check engine bulb application? Cheaper not direct replacement transistor?

[kb1gtt]

The VNS14NV04 currently costs about $1.86 in low qty, so 4 channels is $7.44. I see the TLE6240 is about $8.50 from official suppliers and about $4 on ebay, so it would be lower cost if we used the TLE6240 chip. However the higher internal resistance of this chip would likely need better heat sinking, but perhaps not if it only uses like 5 or 6 of it's 12 channels. If we only had a proto board which could be used to see how it preforms from a thermal stand point

[AndreyB]

121) XTAL x2 pinout should be #1 and #4

[AndreyB]

We are currently using TE 1734753-1 vertical USB which is $1.64@1 or $1.27@100
Ebay has "HW-MU-5F-23" see http://www.bentex.com.hk/catalog/connectors/mini-usb/hw-mu-5f-23.shtml for much cheaper.

Still looking for a cheaper 3-position or 5-position button.

[AndreyB]

122) need a jumper between W2 and D12-D23 - NB2 miata fly-back should be wired into main relay 12v not ignition on 12v

[AndreyB]

vertical space inside the case:
from top of red board to bottom of top cover - 23mm
from top of brain boardo bottom of top cover - 10mm

[AndreyB]

Some great news - toyota camry 89661-06130 ECU is a new case option for Frankenso! The case is 99% the same as the mazda case we were using so far - same dimentions, same inside mount points, only external box mounting points are at a slightly different location.

RIght now there is a dozen of these for under $11 on eBay, and I suspect some other Toyota part numbers would work as well.

[stefanst]

I just got a Mazda 929 case. It's maybe 8mm taller than the cases we've been using because they used two boards in one case for these ECUs. Unfortunately only two of the screw holes to fasten the ECU line up.

[AndreyB]

Any part number on that case? I would mention it as "known to not work great but could be an option if nothing else"?

[stefanst]

Part# JE48 18 881A

[tomiata]

Tell me when to grab that new .pdf

For a bare bones Miata ECU we do not need MAX9926 do not need TPIC8101 do not need FT232 - which leaves injector transistors as the most expensive part on the board which makes me wonder how to make it cheaper. Maybe use cheaper transistors at least for fuel pump / check engine light / radiator relay fan control? Is there a cheaper direct replacement component which would work for relay or check engine bulb application? Cheaper not direct replacement transistor?

What are you thinking here? A cheaper version of frankenso? I would be interested in one for my 96 Miata (rusefi #7). I have an early Frankenstein but doesn't have enough drivers for full control, and I don't want to do any smt soldering.

[AndreyB]

What are you thinking here? A cheaper version of frankenso? I would be interested in one for my 96 Miata (rusefi #7). I have an early Frankenstein but doesn't have enough drivers for full control, and I don't want to do any smt soldering.

Yes, a cheaper Frankenso. But realistically the recent drop in case price plus used connector would be a larger price reduction.

Just not installing few chips is probably too small of cost reduction to bother tracking more SKUs. Maybe later, for now I think all boards would stay complete. Not sure still to be honest

Early Frankenstein is the same number of drivers is not it? The two extra hi-side do not make a difference.

[AndreyB]

https://sourceforge.net/p/daecu/code/HEAD/tree/Hardware/trunk/rusefi.com/frankenso/frankenso_top-isometric.png and https://sourceforge.net/p/daecu/code/HEAD/tree/Hardware/trunk/rusefi.com/frankenso/frankenso_top-isometric_notes.png seem to be the same thing.

In rusEfi repo I've restored an older version of isometric without notes - https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/frankenso/frankenso_top-isometric.png

[kb1gtt]

I seem to recall that was because of some forum links or some external links. If we see the notes have disappeared, then we should update the link.

[sleepingAwake]

Just wanted to submit a couple suggestions for the Frankenso 0.4 schematic

mmc_usb_1.sch -- W701 is referred to as jumper WJ01 in the notes.

Inj_12ch.sch --- Perhaps a note can be entered stating the 20 ohm resistor value is substitued with a 22 ohm resistor in the current kit or that the value has some flexibility.

[AndreyB]

Inj_12ch.sch --- Perhaps a note can be entered stating the 20 ohm resistor value is substitued with a 22 ohm resistor in the current kit or that the value has some flexibility.

wiki is much easier to modify, we have http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Component_Options for this. But more data is definitely needed - I assumed LED current limiting resistor are pretty flexible, just a change in brightness.

[AndreyB]

mmc_usb_1.sch -- W701 is referred to as jumper WJ01 in the notes.

Just to make sure I do not forget - https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/341/

[kb1gtt]

Thanks for the feed back. I'll add it to the known issues list. I use that as a list to remind me about things to address on the board.

[kb1gtt]

Frankenso's https://sourceforge.net/p/daecu/code/HEAD/tree/Hardware/trunk/rusefi.com/frankenso/known_issues.txt now has

Code: Select all

125) W701 is referred to as jumper WJ01 in the notes

[AndreyB]

We already have

109) Move D12-D23 schematics from the main page to the inj12ch page

can we please add

126) Add a note about optional D12-D23 for solenoids

also?