[info] Frankenso - ECU shield compatible with OEM case / official

[puff]

costly assembly service?

[AndreyB]

Starting with 0.4, a fire extinguisher is required.

[puff]

looks a bit frightening

[AndreyB]

Fully assembled boards are back in stock @ https://www.tindie.com/stores/russian/

[AndreyB]

Battery holder is too tall to fit under the cover on the back of the board, I suggest we move it to the front and place it on top of the 'discovery' region. This cheaper through-hole holder has 20mm (0.7874 inches) between terminals, I guess we can use both SMD and through-hole options if we want to.

Code: Select all

95)                  cheaper battery holder - through-hole (20mm between terminals)

[puff]

we've got a battery there? what is it used for? system clock?

[AndreyB]

we've got a battery there? what is it used for? system clock?

yes, we have battery - just to have correct dates on the log files to be able to figure out which log is what.

[AndreyB]

Ohm by the way Bluetooth works. You need to solder HC-06 module @ 6 pads and it just works right away @ 9600. No configuration, no setup needed on the Bluetooth side - you just need to set rusEfi binary protocol speed to 9600.

See also http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:HC-06

[puff]

not much use without the gauge values, right?
in this regard torque seems to be much more promising (connected to elm327 via bluetooth - pretty much the same way).

[AndreyB]

not much use without the gauge values, right?

TS works perfectly, so does rusEfi console. The other application has it's own thread

[AndreyB]

Undisclosed location.

[AndreyB]

101) connector middle mounting holes - need a 5.5mm diameter area for screw head on the back

[kb1gtt]

100) RESOLVED IN R0.5 update TPIC chip for 39k's, 3.3nF, and DNP 1M.
Also
102) RESOLVED IN R0.5 TPIC/HIP knock SPI was not working properly, R170 changed to 5k and R172 to R174 removed to correct the SPI bus.

I changed the 100k's to 39k's as they better match the components noted here http://www.ti.com/lit/df/tidr519/tidr519.pdf

Thanks spilly for the help with getting that resolved.

[edit]fixed typo[/edit]

[AndreyB]

vs

typo in the .txt?

[kb1gtt]

fixed typo.

[AndreyB]

103) button silkscreen notch is barely visible

[AndreyB]

@ has Frankenso 0.1 and he uses it on his supercharged Passat. He reports some noise on the radio, the noise frequency follows RPMs:

[video][/video]

[kb1gtt]

Very nice. Are we sure it's the radio? After all super chargers tend to have a similar noise

I would think that could be a GND, so I would make sure there is a good GND, as well I would try to mount it away from the radio physically if possible. Part of it could be alternator wine.

[AndreyB]

first 40 seconds radio is off, sound is different. I believe no such noise with stock ECU - not sure if that means alternator is not a suspect.

[Rhinoman]

You need to start looking around the outputs for spikes and ringing, the smart FETs can cause a lot of noise because they switch very quickly and you can't change that like you can with a normal FET, you may be able to reduce any issues by adding snubber circuits.

Edit: apparently the VNS14NV04 can be driven as an analogue device so you may be able to slew those if they are causing the issue.

[kb1gtt]

I seem to recall inquiring about the GND circuits. Are they connected, I know the original MCU had several GND connections. Are they all connected? Is this still a problem or have you found a solution? If the GND's are connected, how are they connected? Do you have a rough schematic of how the radio and such are wired?

[elimeir80]

Hi, when he turnes up the radio it sounds like the injectors and ignition have a lot of noise on the circuit, i would check for ground loops in wiring,also the wiring in your sound system

Eli

[Abricos]

This problem inside the radio ...
with noise filter ...
This filter fix problems ...

[kb1gtt]

Where did you install this device and how did you install it?

For example, did you install it at the radio, at Frankenso power input, at the battery or at the fuse terminal block, or other? I suspect you did it at the radio, tucked in the dash behind the vents and such.

Also I can't get that page to link. Does it have a model or MFG number?

[AndreyB]

https://www.tindie.com/products/russian/frankenso-02-diy-kit-/#tab-product-reviews

Reviewed By
Greg
Nov. 16, 2015

Its Awesome
Top value for money kit.
Could do with assembly instructions as the silkscreen is very difficult to read, but other than that if you are good at surface mount work then you will save yourself heaps over a ready made ecu.

[kb1gtt]

Nice.

If I ever build one that way, I'd make sure I take pictures and post on the wiki about it. Unfortunately I haven't had time to build one.

Thanks for the review, and glad we could provide the option.

[AndreyB]

New batch of same version 0.4 has arrived.

[Roo-Barb]

Just a quick note for anyone considering enclosing the frankenso .
The Australian Miata/MX5 version Denso case does not fit at all.
The case dimensions are the same and the connector lines up, but the mounts and holes are all in different places and if you attempt to use this enclosure you will cause major shorts.

So Aussies had better order a case from rusefi, or grind and epoxy the living cr&p out of the local one.
Would be good if there was list of cases compiled that are known to fit, so if anyone has had a win, post the details.

Cheers.

[kb1gtt]

Could the holes be made to fit? If so I could make some changes to the next spin such that we can expand the number of cases this could fit into. Perhaps a picture of the case would help show the issues.

[Roo-Barb]

Will do in the morning.
Just discovered an interesting thing though we pulled the ECU from the 1996 AUS Rav4. And even though it is a Fujitsu Ten unit it is very similar to the US Miata case and most of the holes align the 2 front ones need elongating and the socket opening needs 3/8" (10mm) milled off one side and she should fit.
The Miata/MX5 case here is single sided i.e: just opens at the top whereas the Rav4 case is near identical.
I have a box of ECU's sitting in the basement so I will do my best to compile some drawings over the next few days and post them.
The Caldina ECU's have quite a large case and loads more room for extras.

Also Found two great local websites for connectors and pins here:

https://www.efihardware.com/products/c293/Connectors

http://www.sq-engineering.com/auto-wiring.html